Bacchus is a Silvaner x Riesling cross with Müller-Thurgau (Riesling x Madeleine Royale). It was developed by Peter Morio at the Geilweilerhof Institute in the Pfalz in 1933 and released for general cultivation in 1972. Bacchus is named after the Roman god of wine (Dionysus in Greece). It ripens early and is a significant varietal in the UK and the coolest climates in Germany. Franken and England have found success with the grape. Aromatic, similar to Sauvignon Blanc for some tasters, definitely exuberant.
Grauburgunder is the German name for Pinot Gris and—similar to the richly textured Pinot Gris found in Alsace—Germany's previous generation of producers focused on the riper side of the variety, often with residual sugar. This version is what Germans called Ruländer. More than just a synonym, Ruländer today denotes a more decadent and richer style of Pinot Gris, while wines labeled Grauburgunder tend to convey a dry and more modern style. With 7,100 hectares planted, Grauburgunder is 7% of Germany's total vineyard area. Grauburgunder performs well on Lößterrassen (loess terraces), Kalkboden (calcareous), and stony soils. Grauburgunder Gutswein (regional wines) is typically vinified in stainless steel, while examples from the upper tiers of the origin pyramid may see oak barrels. The Rheinhessen and Pfalz grow the most Grauburgunder, and the variety is popular with German consumers.
Riesling is Germany’s flagship grape variety covering 23% of its vineyard area with 24,000 hectares planted across all thirteen of Germany’s wine regions. Germany is the world's largest Riesling vineyard, followed by 2nd place Romaina and 3rd place United States. Riesling’s origin is unknown, likely a natural crossing of Weißer Heunisch x Vitis sylvestris or Weißer Heunisch x (Vitis sylvestris x traminer). Its name is another puzzle, possibly a derivation of reissen (originally to split, perhaps concerning a [vine] cutting?) or relating to rieselnd (meaning trickling). It was first recorded in 1435 as Riesslingen from an invoice for a Count in Rüsselheim, Rheingau, Germany. Riesling has many synonyms, including Klingelberger in Ortenau, Baden. The Riesling from the Rhein has nothing to do with Welschriesling or the red variety Schwarzriesling. Riesling represents 80% of Rheingau’s vineyard area, with 2,500 ha. Pfalz grows the most Riesling in Germany with 5,900 ha, followed by 5,400 ha in Mosel and 4,700 ha in Württemberg. Riesling is a slow-ripening variety, preferring cool climates and poor soils. Depending on its location, soil, and microclimate, it produces very differently nuanced wines. Riesling’s defining element is its fruity acidity, and it is made at all quality levels and in styles ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet. Riesling is capable of long aging, developing complexity for decades in bottle, and is a superb partner to a wide range of cuisine.
Of the 130,000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide, just 1,300 grow in Germany. Even that seems like a lot if you’re looking at the German wine landscape from abroad. Who’s drinking all this German Sauvignon Blanc anyway? The Germans, natürlich! I can only recall recently seeing Von Winning’s Sauvignon Blanc II from the Pfalz on any US shelf. Still, many German wine drinkers love Sauvignon Blanc’s fresh and green character, and consumers can find quality examples in Pfalz, Baden, Rheinhessen, and Nahe. Sauvignon Blanc has a long history in Baden’s Durbach (Ortenau). Weingut Graf Wolff Metternich claims it was first planted there in 1830 with cuttings from Château d’Yquem. Specialist producers like Weingut Genheimer Kiltz in the Nahe are pushing German Sauvignon Blanc to its peak of quality, and many leading estates now include it in their range.
Scheurebe is a crossing of Riesling and Bukettraube. Whenever I think of Dr. Georg Scheu's creation, I’ll probably always think first of Müller-Catoir’s Scheurebe (the dry, Haardt bottling). Scheu was head of the Landesanstalt für Rebenzüchtung (Institute for Vine Breeding) in Alzey, Rheinhessen, when he successfully crossed Riesling with Bukettraube to create Sämling 88 in 1916. Scheu numbered all his young plants, and this crossing was “Sämling 88” (Seedling 88), the preferred synonym in Austria. The variety was later named after Scheu. From Oz Clarke’s Grapes and Wines: “According to the German grape-breeder Helmut Becker, Scheu's purpose was to create a superior version of Silvaner, with more aroma and greater resistance to frost damage and chlorosis.” Müller-Catoir’s was probably the first Scheurebe I ever encountered and continues to be my reference for this grape variety: highly aromatic, smelling of blackcurrant and grapefruit, dry with a pleasant phenolic bitterness. There are 1,417 hectares planted in Germany, mainly found in the Rheinhessen, Pfalz, and Nahe.
AKA Grüner Silvaner or Grüner Sylvaner in Germany is an old variety, most likely a spontaneous crossing from more than 500 years ago. Savagnin and Österreichisch Weiss are the parents, and Österreichisch is yet another synonym for Silvaner. Around 5,000 hectares of Silvaner are planted in Germany, making it the 5th most planted variety there. Rheinhessen alone has 2,371 hectares of Silvaner planted, which has a long history with the grape. There are 1,406 hectares of Silvaner planted in Franken, where it can be particularly expressive when grown on that region's sandstone, shell-limestone, and marl soils. The greenish hue of Silvaner's skin and glints of green in the finished wine might explain why the southern Rheinhessen sometimes uses the old name Grüner Sylvaner, but in modern times, some of Rheinhessen's star producers have been emphasizing the "greener" side of the variety, with Silvaner's attractive herbal and even grassy notes. Silvaner's Austrian origins, medium/medium+ acidity, and sometimes the green character have fooled tasters (me included) drawing comparisons to Grüner Veltliner, but it is its own variety and almost always vinified dry with sweet dessert styles rarely produced and medium-sweet styles rarely encountered. In Franken, you will encounter other Silvaners besides the workhorse Grüner Silvaner. As explained by Philipp Luckert, Blauer Silvaner is more rustic (Google a picture of the grapes and you will see its blue skin). Roter Silvaner is rare, and has an aromatic lychee character. Gelber Silvaner, according to Luckert, is the highest quality, and in Luckert's wines, shows more ripe and textured fruit when compared to the other colors.
Weissburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc [FR] or Pinot Bianco [IT]) is widely planted in Germany and thrives in areas where the climate is perhaps too warm for Riesling. There are 1,600 hectares of Weissburgunder in Baden, Germany’s only region in climate zone 2, followed by 1,500 hectares in the Rheinhessen and 1,350 hectares in the Pfalz. An additional 1,297 hectares can be found elsewhere in Germany, bringing the total to 5,747. With lower acidity than Riesling, Weissburgunder can still be a refreshing wine, especially when vinified in stainless steel tanks which it often is. Oaked versions (both small and large barrels) can begin to resemble Burgundy with a pale straw color and notes of toast, nuts, and lees. Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir and has existed since the 14th century.