Grape Varieties Red

Blaufränkisch/Lemberger

Blaufränkisch is an important Central and Eastern European grape variety previously widely planted throughout the Habsburg Monarchy. While its exact origins are unknown, it is a likely natural crossing of Sbulzina and Weißer Heunisch (Gouais blanc) and has existed since the middle ages. A viticultural exposition in Vienna, Austria, in 1862 marked the first officially documented appearance of Blaufränkisch, and by 1877 export of Lembergerreben to Germany had been recorded. The German synonyms Blauer Limberger and Lemberger come from Limberg in Lower (Slovenian) Styria. There are 2,597 hectares of Blaufränkisch planted in Austria, 93% of which are in Burgenland, where it is a leading quality variety. The DAC of Mittelburgenland has the nickname Blaufränkischland. Lemberger in Germany is a Württemberg specialty where plantings have steadily increased in their “Wengerten” from 500 hectares in the 1980s to 1,778 in 2023. Another 162 hectares exist outside of Württemberg, bringing the total to 1,940 in Germany. Graf von Neipperg in Württemberg and Burg Ravensburg in Baden were the first two estates in Germany to plant the variety. Blaufränkisch/Lemberger prefers a warm climate and protection from the wind. The wine can show its site, soil, and vine age with impressive precision and its tannin-acid structure allows it to develop beautifully with time in the bottle. Blaufränkisch/Lemberger tends toward black fruit with black currants, sweet and sour black cherries, and occasionally a distinctive Elderberry note which I’ve found consistently from the Lämmler vineyard in Württemberg. Sometimes aged in new barriques, I strongly prefer the variety in a neutral barrel or, better yet, a large neutral Stockinger barrel or Stückfass. In Württemberg, “Lemberger mit Trollinger” can be encountered, blending the two schwäbische specialties. Speaking of schwäbische specialties, Zwiebelrostbraten (roast beef and onions) is a classic pairing with Lemberger, while a Blaufränkisch with Goulasch is a must-have combination near the Hungarian border.

Sankt Laurent

There continues to be debate about Sankt Laurent’s parentage, though whenever I’ve spoken to an Austrian winemaker about it, there seems to be a consensus that it’s an offspring, mutation, or seedling belonging to the Pinot family. The grape originated in eastern Austria sometime after 1240 CE and took its name from Saint Laurent Day (August 10th), when the grapes began to change color (veraison occurs much earlier now). I’ve always described Sankt Laurent as a more wild-tasting version of Pinot, typically with more color and a more black fruit-oriented flavor profile. There’s often an herbal note, earthy and savory, with pronounced acidity, and to my nose and palate, the connection to Pinot Noir always comes through. Producers also agree that the variety is challenging to grow, stressing the importance of harvesting healthy grapes. Sankt Laurent is grown in Germany (notably in the Pfalz), the Czech Republic, and Slovakia. Five hundred ninety-six hectares grow in Austria, where producers in Thermenregion and Burgenland have embraced it as a key variety.