Franken: Silvaner's Heimatland

Franken is Bavaria’s only wine region bordering on the Baden district of Tauberfranken in the south, with most of its vineyards situated steeply along the Main. The river forms a gigantic “W” shape, with the region beginning in earnest at Aschaffenburg before reaching the city of Würzburg at its center, then ending at Zeil-am-Main in the east. Würzburg is Franken’s commercial center. Heavily bombed during the final weeks of WWII, the town rebuilt itself, and the famous old bridge in Würzburg’s Altstadt straddles the Main and provides a view of the Würzburg castle and the iconic Stein vineyard (source of Goethe’s favorite wine).

Silvaner is Franken’s signature variety, usually bottled in a PDO-protected Bocksbeutel, but some of Germany’s finest dry Rieslings and Spätburgunders come from Franken, although grown in tiny quantities. The Rieslings and Silvaners are bone dry, sometimes to the point of austerity, which has given the rest of Germany a term for describing bone dry wines: fränkisch trocken means no more than 4 g/L residual sugar. Much emphasis fell on Müller-Thurgau and other early ripening or high-yielding crossings in the past, but producers today seem keen on leading with quality and clear priority shifting to Silvaner, at least from Franken’s quality sector.

Bavaria, especially Munich, is the world’s beer capital, and while Würzburger Stein is undoubtedly famous (so much so that the term Steinwein once meant all Franken wines), a Stein of Würzburger Edelbräu is equally good, and I would suggest necessary after a full day of wine tasting. Visitors to the region might want to visit a Frankenheckenwirtschaft for some real, local flavor. These simple eating and drinking places have particular rules: vintners may sell their products to the public without a restaurant license, operate on a calendar opening eight weeks a year, have only 40 seats, and no hot food served. Look for a branch cut from a hedge (Hecke) above the entrance to locate one that’s open. Heckenwirtschaften aside, Franken clearly understands the importance of wine tourism, and there seems to be a much higher level of hotels and restaurants with excellent cooking compared to the relatively scant offerings in other Rheinland regions. The wine villages along the Main are charming, and its city of Würzburg is a must.

Mainviereck

Franken’s three Bereiche are roughly based on three Triassic geological zones. Mainviereck in the west is home to Franken’s (and some of Germany’s) best red wines, especially from the historic Klingenberg, and the village of Bürgstadt (a sub-district known as Churfranken), where the weather is milder than the rest of Franken, and the soil base is Buntsandstein (colored sandstone). These conditions favor Spätburgunder and Frühburgunder with a lifted, aromatic profile. Weingut Rudolf Fürst is the superstar of this area with its trio of top-class Grosses Gewächs, Spätburgunder Schlossberg GG, Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg GG, and Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg Hunsrück GG. There are slate, quartzite, and gneiss soils around Michelbach and Hörstein, which favor Riesling. Both red and white wines are more delicate than in other districts. Homburger Kallmuth, a monopole of Fürst Löwenstein, is the steepest vineyard in Franken, with Bundtsandstein and Muschelkalk soils. Miltenberg is a popular town for wine tourists to take in the architecture and sample the local wines.

Maindreieck

Maindreieck is the center of Franken viticulture and is based on Muschelkalk (shell limestone), especially at Würzburger Stein. 70% of Franken wines come from this district, and 210 hectares of vines are within the city’s limits. It is the driest area in the region. Steinwein has a distinctive smoky note thanks to the soil, which strengthens with time in the bottle. Three producers: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital, and Hofkeller, control most of Würzburg’s viticulture. South of Würzburg are Randersacker Teufelkeller, Pfülben, and Marsberg; all feature southwestern exposures facing the river. Neighboring Frickenhausen features sandy soils and is home to the south-facing classified site Kapellenberg. Continuing upriver, the village of Sulzfeld is notable for its Maustal vineyard and outstanding producer Zehnthof Luckert. The area near Volkach and its surrounding villages is home to a high-quality co-op at Sommerach and its Katzenkof vineyard, grand cru Escherndorfer Lump with limestone, loess, clay, and Volkacher Ratsherr. By the way, the name Lump was explained to me as a Schimpfwort (an insult), “but only a moderate Schimpfwort,” and why that would be the name of a vineyard, I do not know. The alternative explanation seems more plausible: as vineyard plots divided over generations, holdings were reduced to only the size of a Lump! Silvaner is the top variety in Maindreieck, but there are excellent, bone-dry Rieslings from this district, Weissburgunder, and aromatic varieties.

Steigerwald

Keuper defines the district of Steigerwald, which is layered high up the mountainsides. The black Keuper soil has a warming effect that aids grape ripening, even at high elevations. A concentration of classified sites can be found between Rödelsee and the walled town of Iphofen and again at Castell (the Castell family owns all the vineyards of this village, including the top site Schloßberg), believed to be where Silvaner was first planted in Franken centuries ago. The area is home to famous sites like Küchenmeister, Kronsberg, Julius-Echter-Berg, Kalb, Casteller Schloßberg, and many top producers like Hans Wirsching, Weltner, and Johann Ruck. The black Keuper (marl with gypsum) produces more structured, flinty, smoky, and easily identifiable wines. Silvaner on Keuper can age magnificently, as can Silvaner on Muschelkalk. I strongly liked the Silvaners on Keuper in a recent soil comparison tasting, especially those with ten years or more in the bottle.

Bocksbeutel

The Bocksbeutel is a traditional, squat, flask-shaped bottle used with immense pride among the winegrowers of Germany’s Franken region. Similarly shaped wine bottles (usually the Cantil) have lengthy histories elsewhere in Europe and far-off places like Chile, but nowhere else is it tied to a region’s identity as in Franken. Flagon-shaped clay wine bottles were around in the middle ages, and glass versions were in use by 1685. The Franconians have made numerous attempts to claim exclusivity over the Bocksbeutel. In 1984, a European Court decided that the Bocksbeutel could not be Franken’s exclusive property. In 1999, the Bocksbeutel was granted PDO status by the European Commission, giving Franconian wine producers protective rights over the Bocksbeutel (exceptions were made for Baden districts of Tauberfranken and four villages in Ortenau which made a historical claim to the bottle). In 2001, Franconian producers built a 35-meter-high Bocksbeutel hot air balloon to protest a European Union initiative that would have made it available to all European wine producers. An article from The Guardian reporting on the protest contains a hilarious quote from Johannes Lay, head of the Franconian winegrowers’ association at the time, “When people see the goat’s scrotum flying across Europe - that should say it all.” Whether its name comes from “ram’s scrotum,” which is supposed to be of similar shape, or if it came from a Booksbüdel, which would have been a small sack used to carry prayer or songbooks, is a bit of wine lore. The short-necked, pot-bellied but flattened shape derives from field bottles that pre-date the middle ages and were a practical and common shape for transport. A new shape was introduced by star designer Peter Schmidt from Hamburg in 2015, giving the Bocksbeutel a modern refresh with sleeker lines and a cleaner look. The new design is not mandatory but protected for Franken's use only, and I can see that it's been widely adopted by many Franken producers. It’s a well-used wine merchant complaint that the Bocksbeutel can’t be easily stacked or binned, and many find the shape old-fashioned and unappealing. I, for one, find the Bockbeutel charming (Bockbeutel splits and magnums are especially alluring), and I agree with Weingut Hans Wirsching’s position, “For us, the Bocksbeutel embodies tradition, uniqueness, and home.”