Walporzheim-Ahrtal | Dernau | 23-hectares | Certified organic
Werner Näkel was among the first of a handful of Winzer to make their way to Burgundy in the early 1980s, bringing home a very different vision for Ahr Pinot Noir than previous generations. Werner befriended Henri Jayer of Vosne-Romanée, who instilled in him a philosophy of "meticulous vineyard presence," including green-harvesting, as well as his cellar practices of 100% destemming, and, of particular consequence for Werner, the use of the small 228-liter traditional Burgundy barrel known as a pièce.
The Ahr's slate is uniquely different than Burgundy's marl-limestone, nor was the region set up for quality in the way it had been for centuries in the Côte-d'Or. In the early 1980s, the Ahr vineyards were geared toward tourism, producing light, sweet, pale-colored red wines for the Strauswirtschaften. Nor was winemaking a common path of study for young Germans at the time. While Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel formed the estate in 1950, Werner trained as a high school teacher specializing in mathematics and sports.
Werner Näkel took over the estate in 1982 and slowly adapted Jayer's methods to the Ahr, often by trial and error. Jayer employed 100% new oak for his deeply concentrated Cros-Parantoux, but the high-yielding fruit typical for the Ahr in those days couldn't swallow the same treatment. Werner's early wines were criticized for being over-oaked. Jayer also eschewed filtration, but a cloudy, unfiltered wine in the early 1980s would have no chance of receiving an AP number from the authorities. Werner opted for a very light and gentle filtration instead.
Over time, Werner and his daughters, Meike and Dörte, implemented more of Jayer's techniques, including pre-fermentation "cold soak." Werner passed away in September 2025, but his legacy lives on as the architect of modern German red wine. The sisters maintain the estate's signature style—balancing the power of the Ahr's volcanic and slate soils with Burgundian finesse. Their winery and traditional tavern, Hofgarten, is located in the village of Dernau, and the 20-hectare collection of vineyard sites is now considered a benchmark for the region.
Their VDP.Grosse Lage holdings include Pfarrwingert in Dernau, Kräuterberg in Walporzheim, Silberberg and Rosenthal in Ahrweil, Sonnenberg and Schieferlay in Bad Neuenahr, and Trotzenberg in Marienthal. Following the devastating Ahr Valley floods of 2021, the family underwent a monumental rebuilding process.