# Wine in Germany & Austria
> The reference — and commercial case for German and Austrian wines. 
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## Pages
### About
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/about/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T18:03:46.000Z
Jesse Becker is a Master Sommelier, a VDP.Ambassador, and the first American to pass the Deutsches Weininstitut's German Wine Professional exam. He is Illinois Portfolio Director for The German Wine Collection and co-owner of Rockwerk Grüner Veltliner. He writes the reference 'Wine in Germany & Austria,' covering its regions, producers, vintages, and tasting notes. Jesse loves the wine business as much as he loves the product. He lives in Chicago with his wife, Elizabeth, and their Frenchie, Tate.

### My Life in Wine

I began my journey in wine as a college student, picking up an early edition of Kevin Zraly's Windows on the World Complete Wine Course while waiting tables in Lincoln, Nebraska. That was the late 1990s, and the now-iconic book lacked a cover and was thinner than today's 35th edition. It wouldn't be the last wine book I'd consume before the binding disintegrated and pages became loose. That was twenty-five years ago, and my wine story keeps writing itself.

I was already obsessed with wine when I packed my car and drove from Nebraska to the Napa Valley in 2001, looking for harvest work. I don't remember why I chose Joseph Phelps as my destination; perhaps I just knew it was famous. I walked into the cellar unannounced and found winemaker Sarah Gott in the middle of preparing a tank. She had a complete crew for harvest, but directed me to Miner Family Winery just down the Silverado Trail, where Gary Brookman took me on, and I settled in for the harvest.

Strangely, I was on the crush pad at Miner on 9/11 when Gary told us to stop what we were doing and to go home. Windows on the World Wine Course was one of my sole possessions, and here I was in Napa watching all the devastation in New York and those towers coming down on TV.

My first sommelier job was at Cantinetta Tre Vigne in St Helena. 2001 was the peak of Robert Parker's Cult Cabernets, and Cantinetta offered a flight of Harlan, Dalle Valle, Screaming Eagle, Colgin, and Bryant Family. David Stevens ran this incredible wine program. He and Chef Michael Chiarello offered me my first glance into what great wine, food, and hospitality were all about.

I spent a few years in wine retail with K&L, a major California wine retailer based in the Bay Area, and an early adopter of wine e-commerce. The Zucker and Beffa families are major players in Bordeaux, and I found it quite fun to pick up the phone and sell Bordeaux futures to enthusiastic collectors. Besides the extensive tasting sessions, I met lifelong friends like Martin Reyes MW and Champagne expert Gary Westby, who would, years later, witness my wedding to Elizabeth.

Becky Wasserman walked into K&L one day to taste the staff on her outstanding Burgundy portfolio and made an open-ended invitation to Burgundy for a harvest. I followed up and found myself working at Maison Camille Giroud in Côte d'Or for the 2004 vintage. I spent most of this cold and rainy vintage shivering on the table de tri. Still, I lived in Burgundy for four months, first in an apartment in Beaune and later with Becky and Russell in Bouilland, and will never forget the lessons Burgundy and Becky taught me.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/2004_Burgundy-Table-de-Tri_JBB-2.jpg)

The secret to Camille Giroud's excellent 2004s

One night, I met another English-speaking stagiaire, Justin Leone, at a party at Nicolas Potel. The Canadian-born sommelier Leone suggested I take his old job in Chicago after harvest, and I did. I worked briefly for legendary Chicago Chef Charlie Trotter, and later as a sommelier for NoMi at the Park Hyatt Chicago. While at NoMi, an importer named Seth Allen made a life-changing sales presentation. His company, VinDivino, was one of the first to introduce the new generation of Austrian wines after their notorious mid-80s wine scandal. I've been enamored with Austrian wine ever since.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/2008_Austria-Wachau-Rudi-Pichler-and-Jesse_BEC.jpg)

No oak, no ML, no botrytis. No objections in 2008 with Rudi Pichler, Wachau, Austria

It was during this time in Chicago that I became aware of the Court of Master Sommeliers, and I passed my Certified and Advanced exams in 2005 and 2006\. The Master Sommelier exam consists of three parts: theory, tasting, and practical. I went into my first attempt in 2007 with the mindset that I'd pass all three parts on the first go. I passed the blind tasting with the feedback that practical was my weakest part. I sought out the tutelage of Master Sommelier Bobby Stucky and his Friulian-inspired restaurant, Frasca Food and Wine, in Boulder, Colorado, where I worked alongside the most excellent floor sommelier I've ever known, Matthew Mathers, Dustin Wilson MS, and too many talented "Hospitalians" to name here. I passed the remaining parts of the Master Sommelier exam in 2008.

Elizabeth and I embarked on a four-month tour around the Alps in the fall of 2008, working another harvest, this time at Domaine Alphonse Mellot in Sancerre, and visiting 130 wine estates around Europe. Germany and Austria were significant parts of this tour, deepening my affection for the wines of these two countries. Heinrich Breuer, Rudi Pichler, Steffen Christmann, Willi Bründlmayer, Fritz Hasselbach, and Christoph Tyrell, to name just a few, made lasting impressions with their time and generosity. Matt Kramer's Making Sense of Burgundy, another impactful book read many times over, uses the analogy of a stylus picking up the undulations of a record's grooves to describe how Pinot Noir expresses its terroir in Burgundy. Riesling does this in Germany with such exacting nuance that it requires visiting the vineyards to appreciate fully. Once you've seen the light, it is not easy to see wine any other way but through the lens of terroir. I'm sure it's part of why I do what I do today. 

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/2008_Rheingau-Berg-Eva-Fricke_JBB.jpg)

Standing on the edge of the Berg with winemaker Eva Fricke, Rheingau 2008

After a few more years of writing restaurant wine lists, I joined the import side of our industry in 2013 and have remained there since. Something Gary Westby once said was, "You have to decide how close you want to be with the wine." What he meant was that you could spend a career in this business, detached from the vignerons and places that make this exceptional beverage, and make a fine living doing so. I knew then, as I do now, that I wanted an intimate connection to the people, places, climate, and market conditions that shape the wines and our industry. I did just that, first with Winebow Imports for 8 1/2 years, then with Veritable Wines & Estates, a small portfolio of German and Austrian wineries I represented nationally for three years.

At one point, I had a hardline stance against any winemaking style that I felt worked against a wine's terroir expression, be it ripeness, alcohol, residual sugar, SO2 levels, or especially new oak. A Burgundy that does not capture a sense of place misses the whole point of Burgundy after all. One could then argue that the trend toward controlled reduction to achieve a positive "Le Matchstick" quality in some popular white Burgundies undermines terroir. However, I adore Leflaive and PYCM, so my puristic thinking quickly goes out the window. New oak, though- well, I cannot stand it with Nebbiolo, or, egads, Riesling, and then you taste in the Von Winning cellar with Stephan Attmann and realize you had that wrong too. One day, with the "Barolo Wars" still brewing, I challenged Leonardo LoCasico to explain to me how he could accept the new oak employed by some of his imports. "Great wine is great wine," he answered. A few years later, I'd be tasting in the cellar of Roberto Voerzio with the Winebow team, rendered speechless by the undeniable greatness of those Nebbiolos, lavishly bathed in new oak.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/Tasting-with-Leonardo-LoCascio.jpg)

Tasting Barolo with Leonardo LoCascio in San Francisco circa 2012

In 2022, I joined Veritable Wines & Estates, an export group based in Hattenheim, Germany, representing a small portfolio of German and Austrian estates. These included VDP.Weingüter Balthasar Ress, Heitlinger, Burg Ravensburg, Von Othegraven, and other family-owned wineries, expanding their US distribution from 2 to 25 states. I also co-founded Rockwerk, a Grüner Veltliner brand with Austrian vintner Markus Huber and German winery owner Christian Ress. As I steered my way towards German and Austrian wine, I pursued another challenge: the German Wine Professional, a program run by Germany's Deutsches Weininstitut, studying all 13 of Germany's Weinanbaugebiete over two years, culminating in a long-form essay and blind-tasting exams—a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/2023_GWP-Ceremony-with-Florian-Koch_JBB-1.jpg)

A new German Wine Professional with Deutsches Weininstituts Florian Koch in 2023

As I write this in January 2026, I’m honored to have joined the US import company, The German Wine Collection. The GWC is a continuation of the groundbreaking work of Rudi Wiest, whom, among other importers, I idolized on my way up in the wine business. Wiest focused on the icons, often with a strong contingency from the VDP, and always expertly selected by Wiest himself. German-born Wiest founded Rudi Wiest Selections in 1978 and tirelessly worked for four decades to promote great German producers and change perceptions of German wines among US customers. In 2019, longtime employee Jenna Fields formed The German Wine Collection, continuing Wiest’s legacy as the leading collection of German fine wine in the United States.

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 2026  
Jesse Becker, MS

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/2019_Rudi-Wiest-Jesse_JBMS.jpg)

Legendary importer Rudi Wiest with Jesse Becker, MS, circa 2019\. Denver, Colorado
### Wine in Germany
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/
Last updated: 2026-09-06T21:39:25.000Z
**Start here:** [An Introduction to Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/an-introduction-to-wine-in-germany/)

Germany has thirteen wine regions. Each has an essay on what the place is and why it tastes the way it does, and a companion page on the producers worth knowing.

## The thirteen regions

| Region                   | The region                                                                                                                 | Producers                                                                                                        |
| ------------------------ | -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| **Ahr**                  | [Pinot from Sun and Slate](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-pinot-from-sun-and-slate/)                    | [Ahr Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-producers/)                                    |
| **Baden**                | [Greetings from the Kraichgau](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-greetings-from-the-kraichgau/)          | [Baden Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-producers/)                                |
| **Franken**              | [Silvaner's Heimatland](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-silvaners-heimatland/)                       | [Franken Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-producers/)                            |
| **Hessische Bergstraße** | [The Spring Garden](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-the-spring-garden/)                | [Hessische Bergstraße Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-producers/) |
| **Mittelrhein**          | [Romance on the Rhine](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-romance-on-the-rhine/)                    | [Mittelrhein Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-producers/)                    |
| **Mosel**                | [Winding Slopes of Slate](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-winding-slopes-of-slate/)                    | [Mosel Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-producers/)                                |
| **Nahe**                 | [Exquisitely Tuned](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-exquisitely-tuned/)                                 | [Nahe Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-producers/)                                  |
| **Pfalz**                | [Pfalz is for the Feinschmecker](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-pfalz-is-for-the-feinschmecker/)      | [Pfalz Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-producers/)                                |
| **Rheingau**             | [Historic, Venerable, Rejuvenated](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-historic-venerable-rejuvenated/) | [Rheingau Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-producers/)                          |
| **Rheinhessen**          | [Red Slopes, Limestone Hills](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-red-slopes-limestone-hills/)       | [Rheinhessen Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-producers/)                    |
| **Saale-Unstrut**        | [Viticulture on the Edge](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-viticulture-on-the-edge/)            | [Saale-Unstrut Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-producers/)                |
| **Sachsen**              | [Beauty Awakened](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-beauty-awakened/)                                  | [Sachsen Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-producers/)                            |
| **Württemberg**          | [Oh Those Industrious Swabians](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-oh-those-industrious-swabians/) | [Württemberg Producers](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-producers/)                   |

## Reference

| [German Wine Law](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-law/)                           | How the 1971 law and its predecessors classify a bottle  |
| ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | -------------------------------------------------------- |
| [Germany's VDP](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/germanys-vdp/)                                | The producers' association and its Grosse Lage hierarchy |
| [German Wine History](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-history/)                   | Two thousand years, compressed                           |
| [German Grape Varieties White](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-grape-varieties-white/) | Riesling, Silvaner, Weissburgunder and the rest          |
| [German Grape Varieties Red](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-grape-varieties-red/)     | Spätburgunder, Lemberger, Dornfelder                     |
| [German Vintages](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-vintages/)                           | Year by year, what the weather did                       |
| [German Wine Glossary](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-glossary/)                 | The vocabulary, with pronunciation                       |
| [Wine References](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-references/)                    | Sources and further reading                              |

## Austria

In progress.
### Reviews
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T12:38:13.000Z
All regions All grapes All vintages Any score Newest first Oldest first Wine, A–Z 

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Scores use my own notation — see [How I score and what I disclose](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). Reviews of wines sold by businesses I own or represent are marked interest disclosed.
### Ethics & Disclosure
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T12:42:19.000Z
I review wine, and I also sell it. Those two facts sit uncomfortably together, so this page explains exactly how I keep them apart — and where I cannot.

## What I do for a living

My income comes from the wine trade, not from writing. Specifically:

- I import and wholesale German wine.
- I hold an ownership interest in a wine business.
- I teach, consult, and speak for fees.
- I serve as an ambassador for a German producers' association.

Every one of those roles is a potential conflict with a published review. I am not going to pretend otherwise.

## The rules I hold myself to

| **Reviews are never for sale**                              | No producer, importer, distributor, or association has ever paid me for a review, and none ever will. There is no submission fee, no expedited tier, and no paid placement. A wine cannot buy its way onto this site. |
| ----------------------------------------------------------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| **Scores are never negotiated**                             | I do not preview scores with producers, and I do not revise a score because someone asked. If I change an assessment it is because I retasted the wine, and I will say so.                                            |
| **Commercial interests are disclosed in the review itself** | If I sell a wine, represent its producer, or stand to profit in any way from it, the review says so at the top — not in a footnote, and not only here. Assume no relationship where none is declared.                 |
| **Samples are disclosed, and change nothing**               | I note when a bottle was a trade sample rather than one I bought. A sample earns a wine a tasting, not a favourable one.                                                                                              |
| **Reviews stay free**                                       | There is no paywall on any review, and there will not be one. What I sell is my time — teaching, consulting, speaking. What I give away is my opinion.                                                                |
| **Corrections are made in public**                          | If I get a fact wrong — a vineyard, a vintage, a name — I fix it and note that I fixed it. Silent edits are how a record loses its value.                                                                             |

## What this page cannot fix

Disclosure is not the same as independence. I taste a great deal of German wine because I work in German wine, which means my sample is shaped by the trade I move in. My palate was formed inside that world. No policy statement changes that.

So read these reviews for what they are: the assessments of someone who has tasted these wines repeatedly, in the cellars where they are made, and who has to put money behind an opinion. That is a real advantage and a real bias, and you are entitled to weigh both.

## How I score

Scores are given in stars rather than points, because a hundred-point scale implies a precision I do not believe a palate has. A **+** or **++** marks an upward increment within a rating.

Every note records the vintage, the format, and when I tasted it. A wine tasted once, ten years ago, is a weaker piece of evidence than one I have followed across five vintages, and the note should let you tell the difference.

## Questions or challenges

If you believe a review is wrong, unfair, or insufficiently disclosed, write to me. Substantive challenges get a substantive answer, and if you are right I will say so on the page.

[About Jesse Becker MS](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/about/) · [All reviews](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/)

Last updated August 2026.
### Contact
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/contact/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T12:29:08.000Z
I read everything that comes through here. The form goes straight to me. 

### Illinois trade

Restaurants, retailers and clubs looking at the German Wine Collection portfolio — samples, pricing, staff training, a visit to your floor.

### Producers & exporters

Estates and agents who want to understand how the American market actually works before committing to it.

### Press & events

Quotes, panels, judging, masterclasses, and anything to do with the reviews published here.

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## Posts
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sonnenberg KB GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sonnenberg-kb-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-09T20:46:26.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

KB=Kammerberg. Limestone-marl. Same high-toned character as the other Sonnenberg KBs, but with slightly better oak integration. Quite firm with tannin on the palate and a salty note, absent in the previous wines. Structured and complex.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker          |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder             |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sonnenberg KB |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2021                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2023               |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sonnenberg KB GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-sonnenberg-kb-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-09T20:43:32.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Chalky soil. Located in the French part of the Sonnenberg vineyard. The site was forgotten until Friedrich Becker rediscovered it in 1965\. Gorgeous aroma and perfume. Elegant nose and layered fruit on the palate. Classic Becker structure with strong tannic grip.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Sonnenberg KB          |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2022                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2024            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sonnenberg KB GG 2019
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-sonnenberg-kb-gg-2019/
Last updated: 2026-10-09T20:42:57.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

KB=Kammerberg. This vineyard is located in France, sitting in the French part of the Sonnenberg vineyard. Weathered limestone, loam, and clay over pure limestone subsoil. Great depth of aroma with black cherries macerated in liqueur and presented in a sophisticated package of toasted oak. The flavors are even more intense on the palate, fully ripe with present but polished tannins. It has good structure, suggesting a long life ahead.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder    |
| Vineyard       | Sonnenberg KB    |
| Classification | GG               |
| Region         | Pfalz            |
| Vintage        | 2019             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | August 2021      |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sankt Paul GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sankt-paul-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T22:04:26.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Calcareous soil. 0.9 hectares. Lies in the French section of the Sonnenberg vineyard. Ripe and concentrated black cherry and licorice aromas. Quite mineral, with perfect wood integration on the nose. Wood is more present on the palate, with lingering wood tannins and flavors of cedar and spice.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sankt Paul |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2021                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2023            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sankt Paul GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sankt-paul-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T22:00:51.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Calcareous soil. More open knit and perfumed than Heydenreich. Ripe, red cherry fruit with dried and fresh floral aromas. There's an overlay of wood spice and cedar preceding the red fruit and spice-driven palate.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sankt Paul |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2022                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2025            |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars             |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sankt Paul GG 2019
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sankt-paul-gg-2029/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:55:53.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Listed as Weingut Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Schweigen SP GG Pfalz 2019\. SP=Sankt Paul. This vineyard is located in France. Kalkstein. Once again, you get the sense there's a good amount of wood, but it is consumed by sumptuous ripe fruit leaning towards black cherries, raspberries, and plums. The toast and char of French barrels can be felt on the plate, but it never seems intrusive. These wines have structure and grip, best to drink after a few years of aging.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sankt Paul |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2029                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2021            |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Heydenreich GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-heydenreich-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:48:11.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Limestone-marl. Above Sankt Paul, in France. Perhaps the best nose of the Becker wines today. Best because it fully integrates wood, mineral, and fruit. Very compelling aroma. Also full and ripe on the palate with integrated wood. Powerful with tannin, it is not overwhelmingly so. Top level.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker        |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Heydenreich |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                   |
| Vintage        | 2021                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2023             |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars             |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Heydenreich GG 2019
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-heydenreich-gg-2019/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:43:14.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

This vineyard is located in France. Kalkstein. A deep, rich nose of fully ripened black cherries, singed citrus, and a touch of toast from well-integrated oak suggests wood smoke and cedar. Those flavors continue on the palate with mouth-watering acidity and lingering tannins—delicious and serious Pinot Noir.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker        |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Heydenreich |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                   |
| Vintage        | 2019                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2021             |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Heydenreich GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-heydenreich-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:40:13.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Limestone. Firmly structured and tannic, with an intense core of ripe red cherry fruit on the nose and palate. Quite a structured Pinot Noir with more tannin than most Pinots from Germany/France or anywhere else, but the quality is undeniably good.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker        |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Heydenreich |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                   |
| Vintage        | 2022                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2025             |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Heydenreich GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-heydenreich-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:30:06.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Fassprobe (cask sample). A Gewann of the Sonnenberg and the coolest site for the Becker GG Pinots. Muschelkalk (shell limestone). Fragrant and multi-layered nose of black cherries, blueberries, savory herbs, and crushed dried flowers. The wood on the nose and palate doesn't detract from the gorgeous fruit purity, supported by finely integrated tannins and a bright acidic core. Sumptuous and impressive now, and undoubtedly built for magnificence down the road.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker        |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Heydenreich |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                   |
| Vintage        | 2023                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sankt Paul GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sankt-paul-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:16:43.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Fassprobe (cask sample). A south-facing slope near the last remaining watchtower the monks built for defense. Limestone. A bright nose with more red-fruited character than Kammerberg, with lifted red cherry and raspberry aromas, mixed with savory herbs and crushed red flowers. The palate shows a linear attack of cherry, mineral, and highly focused acidity. Superb length and definition of flavors.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sankt Paul |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2023                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Spätburgunder Schweigener Sonnenberg KB GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-spatburgunder-schweigener-sonnenberg-kb-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:03:13.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

You can find an explanation of "KB" in the producer's profile, but this is Kammerberg, a Gewann of the Sonnenberg on the French side (in Alsace). It is a prized parcel going back to Benedictine times and was recovered by Fritz Becker Sr. starting in the 1960s. Deep color, with black fruits on the nose of blackberry and black plum, and and well integrated wood. Firm tannic grip and bright acidity provide plenty of mineral-infused tension on the ripe blackberry and herbal palate. Impressive balance given it's volume.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker          |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder             |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sonnenberg KB |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2023                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | October 2026              |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, Riesling Schweigener Sonnenberg GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-riesling-schweigener-sonnenberg-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T17:11:12.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Not unlike the Pinots and Chardonnays the producer is known for, the 2023 Sonnenberg GG Riesling is well-structured, tight, and compact, with sweet citrus, smoky gunflint, and salty minerals on the nose. There's plenty of chewy tension on the palate with lingering citrus and mineral notes on the finish. I'm assuming this comes from limestone-marl soils of the German part of the Sonneneberg and was vinified in large neutral wood; however, this is unverified.

| Producer       | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Schweigener Sonnenberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2023                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | October 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/friedrich-becker-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T16:53:36.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

*"I didn't want to, and still don't want to disappear into the anonymity of a 500,000-liter tank."* — Friedrich Becker Sr.

In Harold Woetzel's short film "Der Rebell und das Weinwunder." Friedrich Becker und die "5 Freunde," the quote above from Friedrich Becker Sr., aka der "Grosser Fritz," captures the rebellious attitude of one of Germany's leading red wine estates. It only slightly surpasses my second favorite quote in the film, from his son Fritz Becker Jr., aka der "Kleine Fritz, "My mother was the calming center of the family; we're all Hitzköpfe (hotheads), you could say." If, on a quiet evening, you find yourself with 45 minutes to spare, search for this moving and inspiring [short film on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3iuurXyTfE&ref=jessebeckerms.com) about family, determination, and generational change, preferably with a glass of Becker Pinot Noir in hand. It's a story and a reminder of all that is beautiful about wine.

When Allied forces liberated this region in 1945, the village of Wissembourg returned to France, while Schweigen-Rechtenbach, home of the Becker winery, remained on the opposite side of the border in Germany. Wissembourg's vineyards, known since the 14th-century Benedictine era as the best in the area, were now permanently in Alsace.

Fritz Sr.'s father (what should we call him, "am größten Fritz"?!), served on the board of the regional wine cooperative when his son began buying back these vineyards. In 1968, Fritz (the son) visited the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Inspired, he decided to start his own domaine in 1973, withholding delivery to the cooperative, and do so without his father's approval—a rebellious move on multiple levels.

He also decided to focus on dry, uncompromising Pinot Noir at a time when sweeter, mass-produced styles dominated the German market. To mark this independent streak, he launched his first bottles with the "Füchschen" (Little Fox) label—a nod to "The Fox and the Grapes," one of Aesop's Fables. Fritz's determination to produce dry and serious red wines drew mockery from his peers. The "sour grapes" fox remains on the label as a badge of honor.

Low yields, the use of small French oak barrels to age his wines (starting around 1990), and a focus on terroir were equally controversial. Germany had just enacted a completely revised "Fifth" wine law in 1971, which explicitly rejected the notion of terroir and embraced a new ideology based on ripeness (i.e., sugar levels). Fritz Sr., with 70% of his vineyards across the French border in Alsace, ignored the paradigm entirely and instead highlighted the limestone vein running through his vines.

Fritz's son, also named Fritz, worked alongside his father and, in 2005, took over cellar responsibilities. The younger Fritz brought his own ideas, which, like father, like son, sometimes met with friction. Fritz Jr. gradually dialed back extraction and new oak, and harvesting at lower oechsle for a fresher style. Friedrich Becker Sr. passed away in February 2025 at the age of 77\. According to Fritz Jr., he was out in his beloved vineyards inspecting his vines just the day before he died.

The current Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, at least from the village level on up to the single vineyards, while elegant, still strike me as structured and concentrated, perhaps more in the old-vine sense, like a Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. A Becker Pinot Noir has backbone, and that hasn't gone away under Fritz Jr., and the other varieties show it as well, especially their voluminous Chardonnay Schweigen.

Dissecting the Friedrich Becker portfolio takes a bit of work, as a few historical and legal wrenches come into play. During Fritz Sr.'s tenure, the top wines were a cuvée named Spätburgunder 'Reserve' (or 'R') and another cuvée named 'Pinot Noir.' This was before the VDP officially rolled out its standardized four-tier origin pyramid across all regional associations starting with the 2012 vintage, and using a plain term like "Pinot Noir" helped vineyards across the border navigate labeling rules. Once the VDP classified those sites as VDP.Grosse Lage, the cuvées fell way to the GGs as the top wines.

One caveat is a new wine conceived since Fritz Jr.'s involvement, 'La Belle Vue' Pinot Noir, from a 0.8-hectare plot on a massive limestone base with only a thin layer of loess and clay. Fritz Jr. topgrafted a massal selection of Pinot Noir onto 60-year-old Gewürztraminer vines, resulting in exceptionally low yields of under 20 hectoliters per hectare. The very first vintage (2015) set a new benchmark within the Friedrich Becker portfolio. Annual production is minuscule (around 1,000-2,000 bottles), and the price is very high.

The single vineyards classified and used for VDP.Grosses Gewächs (GG) are Sonnenberg, Sonnenberg KB (formerly Kammerberg), a monopole named Sankt Paul, and another monopole named Heydenreich. Schweigener Sonnenberg is a site that swelled after the 1971 wine law from 10 hectares to its current, rather meaningless size of 240 hectares, incorporating many different soils and exposures. The classified section is 13 hectares and gives us Becker's Riesling Sonnenberg GG from limestone-marl.

In 1966, Fritz Sr. began reclaiming the overgrown and forgotten Kammerberg, a historic sub-parcel (a Gewann) on the French side of the Sonnenberg, sloping steeply down toward the abbey of Wissembourg. The Benedictine monks stored the "Kammer" (chamber) wines in the monastery cellar, where they kept them for the senior monks. The Kammerberg has old vines planted in weathered limestone, loam, and clay over pure limestone subsoil—ideally suited to Pinot Noir.

For years, Becker printed "Kammerberg" directly on the label, but because it was in France, German authorities cracked down, and vintages 2015–2017 show a stamped "Zensiert" ("Censored") covering the name. Becker and the other two VDP Schweigen estates now use the official Einzellage name, Sonnenberg, along with the parcel's initials KB for Kammerberg, KT for Kostert, etc.

Sankt Paul is another single-vineyard site, first cultivated by the Benedictines in the 14th century, and believed to have been originally planted with Pinot Noir. It's a south-facing slope near the last remaining watchtower the monks built for defense; the Beckers recovered and replanted it in 2000.

Heydenreich, like Sankt Paul, is a monopole of the Friedrich Becker winery. The site sits on a protected slope bordered by forest, so the Pinot Noir ripens slowly while maintaining balance. Heydenreich features an outcrop of pure, active Muschelkalk (shell limestone) with extremely thin topsoil. The wine is concentrated and structured, with long aging potential, and receives consistently high ratings.

Look for these vineyards on the excellent [vdp.weinberg.online](https://www.vdp.de/de/die-weine/weinbergonline?ref=jessebeckerms.com) map, and you'll see the symbols ³ and \* following some vineyard names, sometimes in combination, as in Güldenwingert\*³. The ³ tells you it is a German VDP-farmed vineyard residing on French territory. The \* tells you that, to get around strict laws forbidding French locations on German labels, the winery registered the vineyard as a trademarked brand name, yet another workaround to identify the wine's specific historic terroir.

I've yet to taste a VDP.Erste Lage from this estate, but the wines do exist. The VDP.Ortswein category gives us Schweigener Pinot Noir, Grauburgunder Kalkmergel and Schweigen Chardonnay, and Chardonnay Mineral. A 2023 Schweigen Chardonnay tasted at the winery in April 2026 showed Meursault-like volume while maintaining tension and acidity. Readers should add this estate's Chardonnay to their watch list.

There is, of course, VDP.Gutswein, as the entry-level, estate-grown tier. Export markets like the U.S. see a justifiably focused Becker offering led by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and other Burgundian varieties, often under a Becker Family label from grapes grown by the Becker's neighbors under long-term contract. Fritz tells me the Becker Family line is identical to the Gutswein, though I would like to taste these side by side someday—tasting is believing. We must keep in mind that here in the southern Pfalz, wine estates historically grew and often continue to grow the traditional grape varieties of the region, like Silvaner (labeled here Grüner Sylvaner), Muskateller, and Traminer, and Fritz Jr. continues to produce these as well.
### Kühling-Gillot, Riesling Nackenheim Erste Lage 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/kuhling-gillot-riesling-nackenheim-erste-lage-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-07T02:24:32.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

This is VDP.Aus Ersten Lagen, a designation used by VDP.Rheinhessen estates to indicate a blend of classified sites (in this case with Rotliegend (iron-rich sandstone and clayey slate) soil, similar to a Burgundy Premier Cru, which specifies the village but not a particular Premier Cru vineyard. Wild yeast fermented and aged in Stück and Doppelstück barrels on the fine lees. The nose carries ripe yellow citrus, stone fruit, and tropical notes of lemon, pineapple, and yellow peach. Savory herbs and curry spice carry from the nose to the palate, with a piercing, vibrant mineral impression that leaves lingering flavor and acidity. Superb.

| Producer       | Kühling-Gillot |
| -------------- | -------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling       |
| Vineyard       | Nackenheim     |
| Classification | Erste Lage     |
| Region         | Rheinhessen    |
| Vintage        | 2022           |
| Format         | 750 ml         |
| Tasted         | October 2026   |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars    |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Portugieser Sand & Kiesel 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-portugieser-sand-kiesel-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-07T01:04:16.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

The Rings brothers have built their reputation with Spätburgunder; their 'Sand & Kiesel' bottling honors a traditional, historic local grape variety, Blauer Portugieser, from 40- to 60-year-old vines grown in the warm, sand and gravel soils of Freinsheim. 100% whole cluster, spontaneously fermented in large concrete eggs and amphorae with a light sulfuring before bottling. An explosively fragrant nose with curry spice, herbs, blackberry and blueberries, peppercorn, and violets. A hint of reduction that you soon forget, with a bright lift on the palate, juicy acidity, soft tannins, and lingering flavors of black fruit and herbs. A joy to drink!

| Producer | Rings                  |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Portugieser            |
| Vineyard | Sand & Kiesel          |
| Region   | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage  | 2022                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | October 2026           |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Nehrer, Blaufränkisch Ried Feurer 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/nehrer-blaufrankisch-ried-feurer-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-05T02:52:59.000Z
Loamy-marl site in the cooler climate of the St. Georgen area. Warming wood spices on the nose. Roasted cherries with underlying aromas of dried flowers and herbs. Gorgeous balance of ripe red fruit flavors on the palate, with lingering fruit tannin clinging to the palate. Very good.

| Producer | Nehrer                 |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Blaufränkisch          |
| Vineyard | Ried Feurer            |
| Region   | Leithaberg             |
| Vintage  | 2022                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | May 2026               |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Gager, Blaufränkisch Ried Mitterberg Reserve 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/gager-blaufrankisch-ried-mitterberg-reserve-2020/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T23:40:19.000Z
Unfamiliar with the site and the producer. A loamy Ried within the Ried Altes Weingebierge in Mittelburgenland. A powerful (14.5% alc..) nose showing the most wood of this Blaufränkisch flight. Vanilla and wood spice on the nose with a ripe core of blackberry fruit. Ripe and intense blackberry fruit on the palate with lingering wood tannins and flavors of oak.

| Producer       | Gager            |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Blaufränkisch    |
| Vineyard       | Ried Mitterberg  |
| Classification | Reserve          |
| Region         | Mittelburgenland |
| Vintage        | 2021             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Groszer Wein, Blaufränkisch Ried Szapary 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/groszer-wein-blaufrankisch-ried-szapary-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T19:10:47.000Z
Slate. Attractive roasted coffee and bittersweet chocolate nose. Ripe black cherries and cocoa, reminiscent of Schwarzwalder cake. Oak is well-integrated on the nose and palate. Wonderful intensity of fruit and balance on the long and lingering palate. Very good.

| Producer | Groszer Wein           |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Blaufränkisch          |
| Vineyard | Ried Szapary           |
| Region   | Eisenberg              |
| Vintage  | 2021                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | May 2026               |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Friedrich Becker 'Becker Family,' Pinot Noir 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/friedrich-becker-pinot-noir-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-08T21:18:54.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

This is bottled under the Becker Family range and is not 100% estate-grown, but sourced from long-term contracts across the border in France. Vinification takes place at the winery in Schweigen, Germany. Vinified and aged for 18 months in used oak barrels. Serious Pinot Noir nose of red and black cherries, kirsch liqueur, bittersweet dark chocolate, and sweet herbs. Bright and satisfying palate with more red cherry, apple skin, and cocoa. Lovely quality at this price point.

| Producer | Friedrich Becker       |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Pinot Noir             |
| Region   | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage  | 2021                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | May 2026               |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Thom Wachter, Blaufränkisch Ried Saybritz Reserve 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/thom-wachter-blaufrankisch-ried-saybritz-reserve-2022/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T18:33:45.000Z
Slate. Ripe and intense black cherry nose. Wood is superbly integrated and barely detectable. Blackberries and cherries support a lovely forest floor and earthy nose. Gorgeous balance of ripe and intense black fruit on the palate, juicy acidity, and silky tannins. One of my favorite Blaufränkisch tasted thus far today.

| Producer       | Thom Wachter  |
| -------------- | ------------- |
| Grape          | Blaufränkisch |
| Vineyard       | Ried Saybritz |
| Classification | Reserve       |
| Region         | Eisenberg     |
| Vintage        | 2022          |
| Format         | 750 ml        |
| Tasted         | May 2026      |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Jalits, Blaufränkisch Ried Fasching Reserve 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/jalits-blaufrankisch-ried-fasching-reserve-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T18:30:14.000Z
This is listed as Ried Fasching Eisenberg an der Pinka. A loamy and rocky site in the Eiesenberg. Ripe black cherry and cocoa aroma. 13.5% alcohol and a bit of heat coming off the nose. Beautiful and ripe black fruit on the palate, but the warming burn of alcohol is a slight distraction.

| Producer       | Jalits        |
| -------------- | ------------- |
| Grape          | Blaufränkisch |
| Vineyard       | Ried Fasching |
| Classification | Reserve       |
| Region         | Eisenberg     |
| Vintage        | 2021          |
| Format         | 750 ml        |
| Tasted         | May 2026      |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars    |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Kopfensteiner, Blaufränkisch Ried Reihburg Reserve 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/kopfensteiner-blaufrankisch-ried-reihburg-reserve-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T18:25:56.000Z
Sandstone and loam. Ripe blackberry, black cherry nose with accents of roasted coffee and dark chocolate. Sweet cherry liqueur on the palate with lingering coffee notes. Very nice.

| Producer       | Kopfensteiner    |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Blaufränkisch    |
| Vineyard       | Ried Reihburg    |
| Classification | Reserve          |
| Region         | Eisenberg        |
| Vintage        | 2021             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★+3 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wachter-Wiesler, Blaufränkisch Ried Saybritz Reserve 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wachter-wiesler-blaufrankisch-ried-saybritz-reserve-2021/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T18:16:55.000Z
Green schist. Wonderful spicy nose showing black peppercorn for the first time in two flights of Blaufränkisch this morning. Violets and roasted herbs overlay a sweet core of blackberry and black cherry fruit, which transfers from the nose to the palate. Chewy and dense tannins linger on the spice-driven finish. One of the best yet today.

| Producer       | Wachter-Wiesler |
| -------------- | --------------- |
| Grape          | Blaufränkisch   |
| Vineyard       | Ried Saybritz   |
| Classification | Reserve         |
| Region         | Eisenberg       |
| Vintage        | 2021            |
| Format         | 750 ml          |
| Tasted         | May 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Frauwallner, Sauvignon Blanc Ried Buch 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/frauwallner-sauvignon-blanc-ried-buch-2023/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T18:07:09.000Z
Basalt. Ripe peach and apricot nose, accented with pink Texas grapefruit and honeysuckle. Delicious cream soda palate. There is a subtle but noticeable wood influence, which is very well done. Long and satisfying finish. A joy to taste.

| Producer | Frauwallner            |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Sauvignon Blanc        |
| Vineyard | Ried Buch              |
| Region   | Südsteiermark          |
| Vintage  | 2023                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | May 2026               |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Pfeffingen, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/pfeffingen-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-10-07T21:49:17.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Three generations live and work on the estate in Pfeffingen, a small hamlet between Bad Dürkheim and Ungstein, directly on the Deutsche Weinstraße. Jan Eymael looks after the property, with help from other family members in the vineyards and cellar. The unicorn displayed on their labels is the family crest, dating to 1622 and conferred by Emperor Ferdinand II. The vineyards surround the winery, mainly at Ungstein near Bad Dürkheim, where you can visit the remains of a Roman villa and press house. Most sites are gently sloping with limestone, loess, and loam soils.

The most important vineyards are the Ungsteiner Herrenberg and Ungsteiner Weilberg. Ungsteiner Herrenberg is a VDP.Grosse Lage with highly calcareous loess-loam, south- to southeast-facing, and moderately steep with a 10 to 25% gradient. "Kanzel" is the top section. Ungsteiner Weilberg is the other VDP.Grosse Lage; a south/southeast-facing site with a highly unique red earth known as Terra Rossa. Pfeffingen grows several varieties; while known for its very good Rieslings, it is also known for its Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer, and it has plantings of Merlot, Chardonnay, and a rare, ancient red-skinned mutation of the classic white Riesling grape known as Roter Riesling. 

Scheurebe is of particular interest at this estate, where it has been grown for more than 50 years. Scheurebe was the invention of Dr. Georg Scheu, whose goal in breeding it was to create a superior Silvaner, one that was both resilient to disease and highly aromatic. Scheu headed the Landesanstalt für Rebenzüchtung (Institute for Vine Breeding) in Alzey, Rheinhessen, when he successfully crossed Riesling with Bukettraube to create what he named Sämling 88 in 1916\. Scheu numbered all his young plants, and this crossing was "Sämling 88" (Seedling 88), still the preferred synonym in Austria. The variety was later named after Scheu.

Bukettraube (sometimes called Buketrebe or Silvaner Musqué) is itself a crossing of Silvaner and Trollinger (Schiava), which, as of this writing, the author has yet to taste on its own. Crossed again with Riesling, Scheu hit upon a highly unique aromatic profile that resembles the grapefruit aroma of Sauvignon Blanc, but with a distinctive black currant note, and, when vinified dry, a certain phenolic bitterness that many find appealing. Despite its Rheinhessen origin, the variety seems at home in the Pfalz, where several quality estates issue respectable bottlings. 

At Pfeffingen, Jan Eymael's grandparents, Karl and Helene Fuhrmann, intentionally planted it in their best vineyard site, the Ungsteiner Herrenberg, and introduced a dry Scheurebe as early as 1978\. Today's domestic German market weirdly fetishizes Sauvignon Blanc, and some producers, like Pfalz's Von Winning and Nahe's Genheimer Kiltz, do it better than most, but I like to think of Scheurebe as Germany's answer to the universally grown Sauvignon Blanc, and Pfeffingen's as the benchmark example. 

While there's no single-vineyard-designated Scheurebe, Pfeffingen's Scheurebe Ungstein VDP.Ortswein (village-level) comes from the grand cru Herrenberg, and the skin-macerated and barrique-aged Scheurebe "O" would have any sommelier guessing classified-growth Pessac-Léognan blanc. Besides the dry Scheurebe, Pfeffingen's Terra Rossa Riesling (VDP.Ortswein) captures the fragrant identity of Weilberg's iron-rich, clayey loam, and the two Riesling GGs (Herrenberg and Weilberg) couldn't be stylistically further apart: Herrenberg shows the structure and tension of calcareous soil, while Weilberg's terra rossa gives an exotic spice.
### Salwey, Spätburgunder Rosé 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/salwey-spatburgunder-rose-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-22T16:02:48.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Loess and volcanic soils in Kaiserstuhl. 8-hour maceration of the skins. 12.5% alcohol and 2.9 g/L RS. Pale, orangey melon color. Top notes of gun flint and smoke on the nose. Crushed dried flowers and fresh strawberries carry over from the nose to the palate, with lingering juicy acidity

| Producer | Salwey         |
| -------- | -------------- |
| Grape    | Spätburgunder  |
| Vineyard | Rosé           |
| Region   | Baden          |
| Vintage  | 2025           |
| Format   | 750 ml         |
| Tasted   | September 2026 |
| Score    | ★★★3 stars     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Pfeifer, Sauvignon Blanc St. Anna 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/pfeifer-sauvignon-blanc-st-anna-2022/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T21:36:33.000Z
An attractive and ripe Sauvignon nose with yellow peach, apricot, and orange blossom. Orange creamcicle and delicate green herbs (chervil?) linger on the palate. Straightforward and a joy to drink.

| Producer | Pfeifer               |
| -------- | --------------------- |
| Grape    | Sauvignon Blanc       |
| Vineyard | St. Anna              |
| Region   | Vulkanland Steiermark |
| Vintage  | 2022                  |
| Format   | 750 ml                |
| Tasted   | May 2026              |
| Score    | ★★★3 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Weißburgunder Birkweiler Mandelberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-weissburgunder-birkweiler-mandelberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T21:27:09.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Pure shell limestone. Mandelberg, vinified in stainless steel tanks, shows tremendous density, phenolic tension, and a cut with a straight, mineral nose accented by white flowers, white peach, and sea spray. An awesome display of all that Pinot Blanc can be from the right terroir and producer.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz   |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Weissburgunder        |
| Vineyard       | Birkweiler Mandelberg |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Pfalz                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | August 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars           |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Weißburgunder Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-weissburgunder-siebeldingener-im-sonnenschein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T21:15:42.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

The benchmark Weissburgunder from Germany, Rebholz's limestone Im Sonnenschein bottling, vinified entirely in INOX tanks, delivers a compressed, linear, mineral-tinged wine with yellow stone and citrus fruits that carry from nose to palate. Plenty of tension and phenolic grip complement the long, lingering salted-peach finish—superb balance and well-structured for many years of aging.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz            |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Weissburgunder                 |
| Vineyard       | Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Pfalz                          |
| Vintage        | 2025                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Riesling Burrweiler Schäwer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-riesling-burrweiler-schawer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T20:55:03.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Not far from Siebeldingen and Rebholz's famous limestone, Im Sonnenschein is an entirely different, unusual terroir in the region: the sandstone-and-Devon-slate site of Schäwer, a protected site with a 30% gradient. Schäwer is a newer Rebholz Riesling site, managed separately by Hans and Valentin—a focused, mineral nose accented by green herbs, citrus blossoms, and aniseed. The nose and palate show a distinct, smoky mineral character, finishing with lingering acidity and saltiness.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Burrweiler Schäwer  |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Pfalz               |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Franz Keller, Spätburgunder Achkarrener Schlossberg GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/franz-keller-spatburgunder-achkarrener-schlossberg-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T19:59:51.000Z
Volcanic. Gorgeous aroma of black cherry and super fine chocolate. Espresso, forest floor and fennel seed intermingle with intensely ripe fruit on the nose. Exotic spices and black cherry fruit carry secondary flavors on the very long finish. Simply stunning Pinot Noir from anywhere in the world.

| Producer       | Franz Keller            |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Achkarrener Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Baden                   |
| Vintage        | 2023                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2025             |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Neumeister, Morillon Ried Moarfeitl 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/neumeister-morillon-ried-moarfeitl-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T19:54:05.000Z
Loamy plateau. Attractive mineral nose with flint and river stone, chamomile, and hay. Yellow fruit lingers in the nose. Terrific length on the palate with gun flint, lees, and chewy phenolics lingering on the finish. Superior Austrian Chardonnay.

| Producer | Neumeister            |
| -------- | --------------------- |
| Grape    | Morillon              |
| Vineyard | Ried Moarfeitl        |
| Region   | Vulkanland Steiermark |
| Vintage  | 2023                  |
| Format   | 750 ml                |
| Tasted   | May 2026              |
| Score    | ★★★★4 stars           |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Riesling Birkweiler Kastanienbusch GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-riesling-birkweiler-kastanienbusch-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T19:45:39.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rotliegend sandstone, elevation, and a huge diurnal range create a consistently aromatic, lifted, fragrant nose with exotic spices and wild green herbs. A linear, compressed palate delivers a long, mineral-tinged finish. Superb balance with much potential for long-term aging.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz       |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Birkweiler Kastanienbusch |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★★++4 stars plus plus   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Krispel, Weißburgunder Ried Neusetzberg 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/krispel-weissburgunder-ried-neusetzberg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T17:32:25.000Z
Loamy gravel. Perhaps the most obvious influence of oak is tasted today. Vanilla, coconut, and wood toast sit atop ripe yellow fruit on the nose. Yellow apple. There are some attractive reductive popcorn notes that carry over from the nose to the palate, with long, lingering wood and Golden Delicious apple flavors on the finish.

| Producer | Krispel               |
| -------- | --------------------- |
| Grape    | Weissburgunder        |
| Vineyard | Ried Neusetzberg      |
| Region   | Vulkanland Steiermark |
| Vintage  | 2020                  |
| Format   | 750 ml                |
| Tasted   | May 2026              |
| Score    | ★★★3 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Riesling Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein "Ganz Horn" GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-riesling-siebeldingener-im-sonnenschein-ganz-horn-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T17:19:28.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Gravel and colored sandstone: this is a parcel within Im Sonnenschein (see extended notes below). It has a broader, more expansive nose than Im Sonnenschein, despite an identical cellar regime of skin maceration, spontaneous fermentation, and vinification in INOX. Cool green herbs and smoky minerals at the fore, followed by a red fruit note, anise seed, and salty minerality on the long finish. Superb.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz                        |
| -------------- | ------------------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling                                   |
| Vineyard       | Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein "Ganz Horn" |
| Classification | GG                                         |
| Region         | Pfalz                                      |
| Vintage        | 2025                                       |
| Format         | 750 ml                                     |
| Tasted         | August 2026                                |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus                          |

Here's an example of the flawed logic of Germany's 1971 wine law, which combined thousands of small, historically named vineyard parcels into larger vineyards with a minimum size of 5 hectares. Ganz Horn, or Ganshorn as it was historically known, is a 2.5-hectare parcel within the larger (post-1971) 31-hectare Im Sonnenschein, but it is topographically and geologically distinct; thus, Rebholz insisted that it be classified as a separate VDP.Grosse Lage. It should be obvious that Im Sonnenschein's limestone gives an entirely different wine than Ganz Horn's gravel and colored sandstone, as on display here with the two 2025 Rieslings shown side-by-side.

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wagner-Stempel, Riesling Siefersheimer Heerkretz GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wagner-stempel-riesling-siefersheimer-heerkretz-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T16:45:08.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rhyolite. One of the highest sites in Rheinhessen. The name comes from "scratching" and refers to the vineyard's difficult workability. WOW! Spectacular nose. Love this. Pungent and exotic. Black cherries, cassis, green wild herbs, desiccated flowers. Wonderful salty, exotic palate with terrific fruit concentration and beautiful wood integration. Wine of the tasting so far.

| Producer       | Wagner-Stempel          |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                |
| Vineyard       | Siefersheimer Heerkretz |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Rheinhessen             |
| Vintage        | 2023                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2023             |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Pfaffl, Grüner Veltliner 'Hommage' Reserve 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/pfaffl-gruner-veltliner-hommage-reserve-2024/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:51:36.000Z
An homage to the family's patriarch, Roman "Mr. Veltliner" Pfaffl. Old vines. Aged in large acacia. 14.5% alc. Ripe and intense yellow fruit nose. Yellow peach and peach blossoms envelop the nose. Juicy, ripe yellow apples, peaches, and apricots fill the palate. There is not much (classic) Grüner Veltliner typicité here, but the wine is delicious to drink.

| Producer       | Pfaffl                 |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard       | 'Hommage'              |
| Classification | Reserve                |
| Region         | Weinviertel            |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | May 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Gschweicher, Grüner Veltliner 'Primary Rocks' 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/gschweicher-gruner-veltliner-primary-rocks-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:46:53.000Z
Spicy and herbal nose. Quite fragrant with crushed coriander and cardamom pods, turmeric, and ginger. This is the spice cabinet that Grüner Veltliner should be. Green and yellow apples on the palate with lingering spices and herbs. Nice GV.

| Producer | Gschweicher            |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard | 'Primary Rocks'        |
| Region   | Weinviertel            |
| Vintage  | 2023                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | May 2026               |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Proidl, Grüner Veltliner 'Generation X' 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/proidl-gruner-veltliner-generation-x-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:41:27.000Z
From Ried Pellingen. Spontaneous fermentation, aged in 500-L Tonneaux. Ripe yellow fruit meets toasted herbs and spices. Golden Delicious apple, peppercorn, lengthy and satisfying.

| Producer | Proidl           |
| -------- | ---------------- |
| Grape    | Grüner Veltliner |
| Vineyard | 'Generation X'   |
| Region   | Kremstal         |
| Vintage  | 2023             |
| Format   | 750 ml           |
| Tasted   | May 2026         |
| Score    | ★★★+3 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, Riesling Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/okonomierat-rebholz-riesling-siebeldingener-im-sonnenschein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:27:53.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

From the producer's website: "The limestone soil and old vines define this Riesling." The name means "in the sunshine." This wine typically undergoes 24 hours of skin maceration, spontaneous fermentation, and vinification and aging in stainless steel tanks. A tightly wound nose shows citrus blossoms, wildflowers, and salty minerality, which carries through to the compact, linear palate. Balancing acidity lingers with minerals, citrus, and herbs. Top class.

| Producer       | Ökonomierat Rebholz            |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling                       |
| Vineyard       | Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Pfalz                          |
| Vintage        | 2020                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Ökonomierat Rebholz, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/okonomierat-rebholz-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:56:24.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rebholz was an early leader in quality in the southern Pfalz. This rural region earned a demeaning nickname, the "Süssliche Weinstraße," for its massive output of sweet, cheap wine that filled grocery store shelves in the decades following World War II. While the Rebholz family had farmed grapes for centuries, Eduard Rebholz, a trained scientist, studied the region's climate and soils to improve viticulture and pioneered dry wine production in the Südpfalz.

The local government awarded Eduard the title "Ökonomierat (Economic Councilor)" in 1951, an Ehrentitel (honorary title) conferred on individuals for outstanding service and lifelong merit in agriculture. Eduard had taken a hard "natural wine" stance at a time and place far from fashionable, stating, "from my cellar you will only ever receive natural wines, which are the result of painstaking and loving care of the vines and equally careful cellar management (no sugaring, no artificial sweetening or similar fundamental structural changes that take away the wine's original character and, in my eyes, make it no longer appear as a natural product)."

Eduard's redefining and uncompromising approach continued with his son, Hans, and his grandson, Hansjörg, who took over in 1978 at age 19 after his father passed unexpectedly early. Hansjörg further refined the Rebholz style in the 1980s and 1990s, arriving at what we now know as "Typ Rebholz," a certain typicité that makes a Rebholz wine stand out from its peers.

I have tried for years to put my finger on what this actually means, recalling discussions with fellow sommeliers and even his neighbor, Franz Wehrheim, about what makes a Rebholz wine Rebholz. Several journalists have also pointed out that there's a certain something to these wines, though each has its own characterization. Everything from "austere, precise, and powerful" to "an almost fragile structure" has been written about these wines. What I've settled on is this: a Rebholz wine is energy-taut, but not sharp; walks the edge of reduction, but is not reductive; dense with fruit extract, but not fruity; fine, but not filigree.

Basically, Hansjörg and his sons, Hans and Valentin, strive for an untouched representation of the vintage, varietal, and site. The wines are neither chaptalized nor de-acidified, and while most of the production is dry, Gewürztraminer and Muskateller, the traditional varieties of Südpfalz, have natural residual sugar, never Süssreserve. Alcohol levels in the same wine can vary significantly from vintage to vintage, reflecting weather conditions. In other words, they are as naturally pure as Rebholz can make them.

The Rebholz family says that all the quality stems from their biodynamically farmed 22 hectares in Siebeldingen, Birkweiler, and Albersweiler near the southern end of the southern Pfalz. It's an area called the Queichtal (Queich Valley), with a river that feeds the Rhine; gaps in the Haardt range draw in cool air, and the geology is highly complex.

The famous vineyard here is the Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, source of Rebholz's signature GG Riesling. The 30-40% steep, south-facing cru climbs to 320 meters, making it the highest grand cru in the Pfalz. Kastanienbusch benefits from permanent air circulation and has iron-rich Rotliegend soil with slate, colored sandstone, and shell limestone. "Kastanien" because chestnut trees border the vineyard.

The other famous Rebholz site is the Siebeldingener Im Sonnenschein. Shell limestone gives a classic mineral-infused Rebholz Riesling GG as opposed to the exotic spice found in Kastanienbusch. Im Sonnenschein is also the source of the Rebholz GG Weissburgunder, which some argue is the finest Pinot Blanc produced anywhere. It is certainly one of the very best in Germany. The Im Sonnenschein Weissburgunder and the Riesling GGs age in stainless-steel tanks, as do the estate- and village-level wines.

Hansjörg began using barriques for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in 1989\. These are known as the "R" series wines, which are, of course, outstanding, as is the estate's Sekt program. The aromatic varieties Gewürztraminer and Muskateller may be naturally sweet, but they always show remarkable freshness without the overt floral aromas of those varieties.

Rebholz has been organic since 2005 and biodynamic since 2006\. The estate has been part of the respekt-BIODYNAMIC group since 2015.

A VDP member since 1991, Hansjörg was the VDP.Pfalz's long-serving chairperson.
### Gattinger, Grüner Veltliner Ried Weitenberg Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/gattinger-gruner-veltliner-ried-weitenberg-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T18:21:59.000Z
Terraced site in Weißenkirchen. Gföhler gneiss. Peppercorn straight on the nose. White peach and apple blossoms intermingle with toasted spices like crushed coriander and cardamom pod. Fantastic spice-laden palate with superb freshness. There's been a stylistic shift at this estate towards fresher wines, and the changes are really paying off.

| Producer       | Gattinger        |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner |
| Vineyard       | Ried Weitenberg  |
| Classification | Smaragd          |
| Region         | Wachau           |
| Vintage        | 2024             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Morstein GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-morstein-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T18:03:41.000Z
An even more exotic, wild peach and green herbal notes, coupled with jasmine flowers, black tea, and peppercorn spice. I'm running out of words to describe this series of Westhofen wines, each more impressive than the last. Grand cru volume and proportion, with stunning structure and length. Where to go from here?

| Producer       | Wittmann             |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Morstein |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Rheinhessen          |
| Vintage        | 2022                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2023          |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wolfgang Seher, Grüner Veltliner Ried Feuerberg Erste Lage 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wolfgang-seher-gruner-veltliner-ried-feuerberg-erste-lage-2024/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T17:57:52.000Z
Unfamiliar with the site and producer, but Ried Feuerberg is classified 1ÖTW. White tea, green apple, green herbs, and apple blossom on the nose. Stony minerality comes through on the nose and palate. Freshly sliced apples and herbs linger on the finish.

| Producer       | Wolfgang Seher   |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner |
| Vineyard       | Ried Feuerberg   |
| Classification | Erste Lage       |
| Region         | Weinviertel      |
| Vintage        | 2024             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Petra Unger, Grüner Veltliner Ried Hintere Point Erste Lage 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/petra-unger-gruner-veltliner-ried-hintere-point-erste-lage-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T17:53:39.000Z
Loess. On the right bank of the Danube, next to Silberbichl and Gottschelle. Golden Delicious apple and wet stone minerality on the nose. Ripe, almost creamy palate impression, with more apricot-like fruit flavors lingering on the finish.

| Producer       | Petra Unger        |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner   |
| Vineyard       | Ried Hintere Point |
| Classification | Erste Lage         |
| Region         | Kremstal           |
| Vintage        | 2023               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | May 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Michel, Spätburgunder Achkarrer Schlossberg GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/michel-spatburgunder-achkarrer-schlossberg-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T13:11:20.000Z
What I immediately think of when I taste these Schlossbergs side by side (from F. Keller, Dr. Heger, and Michel) is how they taste so proportionally Grand Cru in the Côte d'Or sense. It's never that they're big, but that aroma, fruit intensity, and wood are in perfect proportions. That's all I can say here without repeating what I said about the previous two Schlossbergs. Franz Keller has more exotic whole-cluster, Dr. Heger more cassis, but this Michel may have topped them both in 2021.

| Producer       | Michel                |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder         |
| Vineyard       | Achkarrer Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Baden                 |
| Vintage        | 2021                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | August 2023           |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, Silvaner Würzburger Stein-Berg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/staatlicher-hofkeller-wurzburg-silvaner-wurzburger-stein-berg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T13:05:02.000Z
Yellow-grey weathered shell limestone with clayey loam. The fillet piece of the Stein, with a steep 65% gradient facing south towards the Main. Gun flint and salty sea spray hit the apple- and citrus-driven nose, then gave way to fine green herbs and white flowers. The palate is straight, mineral, and long, with lingering saltiness and acidity. Excellent.

| Producer       | Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Silvaner                       |
| Vineyard       | Würzburger Stein-Berg          |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Franken                        |
| Vintage        | 2025                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rudolf May, Silvaner Thüngersheimer Rothlauf GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rudolf-may-silvaner-thungersheimer-rothlauf-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T12:32:57.000Z
From 50-year-old vines, 8 hours skin contact, spontaneous fermentation, aged in 70% large oak and 30% concrete eggs. Ripe, lemony citrus, savory green herbs, and a lifted floral-spice aroma transfer to the mineral-driven palate. Long and lingering saltiness persists on the finish. Superb.

| Producer       | Rudolf May              |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner                |
| Vineyard       | Thüngersheimer Rothlauf |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Franken                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | May 2026                |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars             |

Shell limestone and red sandstone, thus the name "Rothlauf." The Grosse Lage is the steep, south-and southwest-facing heart of the greater Thüngersheimer Johannisberg VDP.Erste Lage.

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Leindl, Grüner Veltliner Ried Seeberg Erste Lage 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/leindl-gruner-veltliner-ried-seeberg-erste-lage-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T11:51:46.000Z
Primary rock with some loess. "Seeberg," because it's believed there was once a pond here. Straight and mineral nose, with a distinctive flint and wet stone aroma. White tea and peppercorn intermingle with yellow apple fruit on the palate. Individual and very nice.

| Producer       | Leindl                 |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard       | Ried Seeberg           |
| Classification | Erste Lage             |
| Region         | Kamptal                |
| Vintage        | 2023                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | May 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Hofbauer-Schmidt, Grüner Veltliner Ried Hochstrass Erste Lage 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/hofbauer-schmidt-gruner-veltliner-ried-hochstrass-erste-lage-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T11:47:46.000Z
Very different nose, wood-influenced. Vanillians and toast overlay ripe yellow stone and tropical fruit. Pineapple coming through. Creamy and ripe palate impression with lingering wood notes. Grüner Veltliner in a Chardonnay style.

| Producer       | Hofbauer-Schmidt      |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner      |
| Vineyard       | Ried Hochstrass       |
| Classification | Erste Lage            |
| Region         | Weinviertel           |
| Vintage        | 2023                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | May 2026              |
| Score          | ★★++2 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Aulerde GG 2022
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-aulerde-gg-2022/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T22:15:38.000Z
Next to the same vintage and vineyard from Groebe, Wittmann adds a green herb element to the already striking black tea and peppercorn. Ripe yellow stone fruit (vineyard peach), smoke and flint complete the nose. Expansive flavor, ripe, and intensely mineral. Flat out outstanding stuff.

| Producer       | Wittmann            |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Aulerde |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Rheinhessen         |
| Vintage        | 2022                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | December 2025       |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars        |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Van Volxem, Riesling Ockfener Bockstein GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/van-volxem-riesling-ockfener-bockstein-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T22:00:40.000Z
Classic Devon slate amphitheater on the Saar. Elevated herbal aroma, more distinctive than the other wines in this set. Freshly picked marjoram combines with apple skin and white peach. The palate is long, fine, and flavor-packed.

| Producer       | Van Volxem         |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling           |
| Vineyard       | Ockfener Bockstein |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Mosel              |
| Vintage        | 2021               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | December 2025      |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Spätburgunder Kallstadter Saumagen GG 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-spatburgunder-kallstadter-saumagen-gg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T21:56:08.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Calcareous marl, loess-loam, limestone. Straight away on the nose is a note of ground espresso beans. Fully ripe dark cherry fruit, charcoal, and graphite. Black cherries on the palate, full and ripe with silky, well-integrated tannins and no perceptible oak. A very nice wine.

| Producer       | Rings                  |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Kallstadter Saumagen   |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2020                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | December 2025          |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Königlich Preußische Weinbaudomäne, Riesling Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1914
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/koniglich-preussische-weinbaudomane-riesling-schlossbockelheimer-kupfergrube-1914/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T21:49:26.000Z
The label shows a right-facing eagle with the word “Naturrein” prominently displayed. An interesting note on the wines in this vertical before 1969: they were all trocken in style. According to Karsten Peter, leading the tasting, the ‘14, ‘23, ‘33, ‘49, and ‘58 all have less than 15 grams of residual sugar. Rich amber color, wonderful ethereal flavor, coupled with incredible freshness. So impressive. Wow!

| Producer | Königlich Preußische Weinbaudomäne |
| -------- | ---------------------------------- |
| Grape    | Riesling                           |
| Vineyard | Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube    |
| Region   | Nahe                               |
| Vintage  | 1914                               |
| Format   | 750 ml                             |
| Tasted   | August 2019                        |
| Score    | ★★★★+4 stars plus                  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Spätburgunder Leistadter Felsenberg GG 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-spatburgunder-leistadter-felsenberg-gg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T21:34:30.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

South-facing hillside site on a 25% gradient consisting of Kalkstein (limestone). A fantastic aroma combines cherry and plum skin with potpourri, clove, and aniseed. Juicy and ripe on the palate, lifted and high-toned flavors are supported by bright acidity and moderate grip.

| Producer       | Rings                 |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder         |
| Vineyard       | Leistadter Felsenberg |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Pfalz                 |
| Vintage        | 2020                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | December 2025         |
| Score          | ★★★+3 stars plus      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rudi Pichler, Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleiten Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rudi-pichler-gruner-veltliner-ried-achleiten-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T21:27:37.000Z
A multi-dimensional nose with layers of floral and spice aromas sitting atop apples and minerals. Peppercorn, bay leaf, linden, and wild thyme transfer from the nose to the palate. Concentrated yet superbly balanced, ripe yellow tree fruit lingers on the finish. Outstanding.

| Producer       | Rudi Pichler     |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner |
| Vineyard       | Ried Achleiten   |
| Classification | Smaragd          |
| Region         | Wachau           |
| Vintage        | 2024             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Bernhard Huber, Spätburgunder Malterdingener Bienenberg Wildenstein GG 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/bernhard-huber-spatburgunder-malterdingener-bienenberg-wildenstein-gg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T16:47:58.000Z
Weathered red shell limestone. There's another level here. A gorgeous intensity of red fruit and floral aroma with an earthy component of chanterelle or summer truffle. Another indication of mastery (or perhaps its mastery in the cellar coupled with a great "grand cru" site) is the way the wine is proportioned and thus far I've only smelled it. The palate confirms but there's also an assertiveness to the flavor that exceeds that of the other Bienenberg bottling. Wonderful wine.

| Producer       | Bernhard Huber                        |
| -------------- | ------------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder                         |
| Vineyard       | Malterdingener Bienenberg Wildenstein |
| Classification | GG                                    |
| Region         | Baden                                 |
| Vintage        | 2020                                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                                |
| Tasted         | December 2025                         |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus                     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Aldinger, Spätburgunder Fellbacher Lämmler GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/aldinger-spatburgunder-fellbacher-lammler-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T16:39:05.000Z
Gipskeuper, Schilfsandstein, Bunter Mergel, Kieselsandstein. Holy moly! Where to begin? Simply put, this nose is on another level. Not only do we have some exotic spice from (I'm assuming) a high percentage of whole-cluster, but there's also a reductive note at play. Ripe black fruit infused with incense, crushed green herbs, singed citrus, and deeply toasted wood. The palate is salty, savory, flavor-packed, and long. Some stem and skin tannin grip the finish and hold the flavors forever on the finish.

| Producer       | Aldinger           |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder      |
| Vineyard       | Fellbacher Lämmler |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Württemberg        |
| Vintage        | 2021               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | December 2025      |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Riesling 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-riesling-2024/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T16:34:26.000Z
**Disclosure:** I import and sell this wine through The German Wine Collection. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Labeled as Petit Riesling. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks. White peach and gunflint on the nose. Open and accessible both on the nose and palate. Lingering salty mineral finish.

| Producer | Rings      |
| -------- | ---------- |
| Grape    | Riesling   |
| Region   | Pfalz      |
| Vintage  | 2024       |
| Format   | 750 ml     |
| Tasted   | April 2026 |
| Score    | ★★★3 stars |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Markus Huber, Grüner Veltliner Markus Huber Ried Alte Setzen Erste Lage 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/markus-huber-gruner-veltliner-markus-huber-ried-alte-setzen-erste-lage-2023/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T16:30:10.000Z
Calcareous loess. The name probably comes from these being the oldest, consistently documented, and cultivated Rieds in Reichersdorf. Lovely peach and apple blossom nose with coriander, honeysuckle, and apple skin. Superb fruit and acid integration on the palate with lingering mineral notes.

| Producer       | Markus Huber     |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner |
| Vineyard       | Ried Alte Setzen |
| Classification | Erste Lage       |
| Region         | Traisental       |
| Vintage        | 2023             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. Heger, Spätburgunder Ihringer Vorderer Winklerberg GG 2021
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-heger-spatburgunder-ihringer-vorderer-winklerberg-gg-2021/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T16:23:01.000Z
The warmest vineyard in Germany, nearly subtropical. Volcanic soil. Wow nose. Pungent with exotic spice and green herbs, there's a big hit of cassis on the nose, followed by the undeniable smoke of volcanic Kaiserstuhl. Ripe, juicy, concentrated, and well-proportioned palate with superbly integrated oak. What else to say?

| Producer       | Dr. Heger                     |
| -------------- | ----------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder                 |
| Vineyard       | Ihringer Vorderer Winklerberg |
| Classification | GG                            |
| Region         | Baden                         |
| Vintage        | 2021                          |
| Format         | 750 ml                        |
| Tasted         | December 2025                 |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars                  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reichsrat-von-buhl-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-19T20:42:57.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Reichsrat von Buhl is a large, prestigious Mittelhaardt estate, established in 1849 when the Andreas Jordan vineyards were split by inheritance, creating the three iconic Deidesheim estates: Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl, and Dr. Deinhard (today's von Winning). The three independently operated estates are again under a single owner, the Unternehmensgruppe Niederberger, after media and marketing titan Achim Niederberger (deceased) became interested in wine and decided to reassemble the original Andreas Jordan holdings.

After the inheritance split, Franz Peter Buhl founded Weingut Franz Peter Buhl (also known as F. P. Buhl). The word Reichsrat in the first part of the name translates to "Imperial Councilor." In 1885, King Ludwig II of Bavaria appointed Franz Armand Buhl as Reichsrat der Krone Bayerns (Councilor of the Bavarian Crown). German monarchical titles mostly disappeared after World War I, but the brand had already become a global hallmark. A wine of F. P. Buhl commemorated the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.

Franz Armand Buhl served in the Reichstag and was a close friend of Otto von Bismarck. He gained nobility status in 1905 (becoming von Buhl), and the estate was officially renamed Reichsrat von Buhl in 1912\. The estate passed through marriage to the Barons von und zu Guttenberg family in 1921\. Von Buhl suffered a period of post-war decline, and the Guttenberg family leased the estate to a Japanese businessman, Toyohiro Tokuoka. The Armand Kabinett came about during this time. 

The Japanese hired Frank John in 1994, who worked with Hans-Günter Schwarz at Müller-Catoir and ran von Buhl from 2002 to 2012\. John, known for his expertise in biodynamics, converted the estate to organic farming, moved cellar practices toward tradition, reintroduced spontaneous fermentation, extended time on the lees, aged in Stück and Doppelstück, and gave serious attention to Sekt. John now runs his own estate: Frank John Weine - Hirschhorner Hof in Neustadt, Königsbach.

Niederberger bought von Buhl from the von Gutenberg family in 2005, but could not take operational control until 2013, the same year Achim Niederberger passed away at age 56 from a bout with cancer. Before his passing, Niederberger hired Mathieu Kauffmann, the former Chef de Cave of Champagne Bollinger. Kaufmann, building on von Buhl's already good Sekt program, took it to the stratosphere, instilled a new identity for "bone-dry" Riesling, and oversaw the transition to biodynamics. Under new management, Kaufmann left von Buhl in 2019, and since 2023, the Italian-born enologist Simone Frigerio (Technical Director and Winemaker) and Monika Schmid (Managing Director) have led von Buhl to its present day.

Von Buhl is fortunate to have a wonderful array of top vineyards in all the major villages of the Mittelhaardt, including Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer, Pechstein, Kirchenstück, Kieselberg, Reiterpfad, and Paradiesgarten.
### Willems-Willems, Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/willems-willems-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:56:41.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Five generations of Willems women have managed the family business in Oberemmel, situated in the Konzer Tälchen, a side valley of the Saar. Until 1971, it operated as a mixed farm before Maria Willems married Karl Willems. The couple shared the same last name through a common ancestor, resulting in the double surname Willems-Willems.

Maria's daughter Carolin and her husband Jürgen Hofmann, a winery owner in Appenhem, Rheinhessen, manage the estate today with the help of Miguel Louro, a winemaker from Portugal who previously worked at S.A. Prüm. Before Louro, Peter Thelen produced the Willems-Willems wines for many years before founding his own winery, Petershof, also in Oberemmel, in 2019.

Besides the estate-level Rieslings and Weißburgunder, there are two village-level Riesling bottlings, Oberemmeler Riesling "Schiefer" and Riesling "Auf der Lauer" (originally Auf der Mauer), from a walled old vine planting in Oberemmel, plus an Oberemmeler Spätburgunder.

From there, several Lagenweine (single-vineyard) Riesling bottlings show why these Konzer Tälchen sites were prized in the past and are returning to the fore today. Doing this requires an examination of some very old tax maps, and some very excellent explanation by Lars Carlberg, the ex-importer turned winery worker at one of the finest estates of Konzer Tälchen and the Saar, Hofgut Falkenstein.

Lars has written extensively in English on the Konzer Tälchen, offering immense detail on its history and terroirs. His work appears in the 2022 English translation of Karl Heinrich Koch's 1897 historical work, [Mosel Wine](https://www.abebooks.com/9781915351005/Mosel-Wine-Carlberg-Lars-1915351006/plp?ref=jessebeckerms.com), and on his [website (now Substack)](https://larscarlberg.substack.com/); his research is so comprehensive that there's little point in repeating it here; go to Lars if you're seeking more detail. That said, below are a few words about the Konzer Tälchen and the vineyard sites specific to Willems-Willems.

![Franz Josef Clotten's 1868 Prussian viticultural tax map of the Saar and Mosel](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/Konzer-Talchen-Map.jpg)

Franz Josef Clotten's 1868 Prussian viticultural tax map of the Saar and Mosel.

Konzer Tälchen translates as "Little Valley of Konz." However, Franz Josef Clotten's 1868 Prussian viticultural tax map of the Saar and Mosel reveals it covers several villages and a good amount of territory. Starting at Konz (Conz on the map) with a series of excellent south-facing slopes, the Tälchen skirts past the Wiltingen Kupp and runs parallel to Scharzhofberg, forming a U-shape on its way to Oberemmel, Krettnach, Obermennig, and Niedermennig.

While the vineyards here carry less renown than Bockstein, Kupp, or Scharzhofberg, the Clotten map above, with the finest plots designated in deep red, proves that sites like Euchariusberg, Altenberg, and Agritiusberg were historically significant, and with modern estates, namely, Hofgut Falkenstein, Stefan Müller, Willems-Willems, and until recently, von Hövel\*, drawing attention back to the little valley of Konz.

**Oberemmeler Altenberg**

Locate Junkerberg in Oberemmel on the map above, and you will have found Altenberg. Junkerberg is now a Gewann within the Einzellage Altenberg. Colored light red on the map, it is a prime south-facing site extending into the side valley behind the Oberemmeler Hütte, a former Von Hövel monopole. Altenberg features weathered red and blue Devonian slate soils, and Willems-Willems makes feinherb and Kabinett from this site.

**Niedemenniger Herrenberg**

Readers may find it useful to use the [Deutsches Weininstituts online Regionenkarte](https://www.deutscheweine.de/regionen/regionenkarte?categoryButton=growing-area&ref=jessebeckerms.com) tool to locate these sites with their modern site names. This particular Herrenberg is the Zuckerberg seen on the Clotten map above, more specifically the western section of the Zuckerberg with iron-rich, gray-clayey slate soil. Willems-Willems Herrenberg Kabinett is from the mid-slope, "above a vineyard wall."

**Oberemmeler Karlsberg**

Karlsberg, in the 'sweet-spot' near Raul, Altenberg, and Hütte, must be 1\. very small and 2\. surrounded on three sides by the Oberemmel village, based on the look of things on the Deutsches Weininstituts online Regionenkarte tool. Mainly west-facing with reddish-grey, warm slate soils, Willems-Willems produces Spätlese from this site.

**Krettnacher Euchariusberg**

The central part of Euchariusberg is dark red on Clotten's map. Lars tells us that the Einzellage Krettnacher Euchariusberg expanded greatly to its current 36-ha size, and that an adjoining 4-hectare Einzellage Niedermenniger Euchariusberg also exists. Willems-Willems has parcels in the original Krettnacher Euchariusberg. With gray, clayey slate, Euchariusberg is one of the top sites of the Konzer Tälchen.

\*Von Hövel, a VDP estate based in Oberemmel, ceased operations at the beginning of 2026.
### Mönchhof & Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Weingüter
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/monchhof-joh-jos-christoffel-erben-weinguter/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:56:59.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

The name Mönchhof refers to the monks of the Cistercian Abbey, who planted vines in Ürzig in 1177\. It is one of the oldest wine estates in the Mosel, with cellars dating back to 1509\. The Eymael family owned the old house facing the river since 1803, following Napoleon's secularization. In 1994, the sixth-generation Robert Eymael bought out his brother and raised the quality standards at Mönchhof beginning in the mid-nineties.

In 2001, Hans Leo Christoffel, from the neighboring, tiny J.J. Christoffel estate, retired and leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael. In 2016, Eymael, who had no heir, sold both wineries to a group of wine-loving Beijing investors, ending 212 years of Eymael Family ownership. Despite the change in ownership, the estate continues to be managed by cellar and vineyard master Philippe Conzen, who has been with the estate since before the sale.

Mönchhof holds excellent, steep, slate vineyards in Ürzig, Erden, Zeltingen, Wehlen, and Kinheim, often on original rootstocks. 10 of the 53 hectares of Ürziger Würzgarten belong to Mönchhof. Holdings in Erdener Treppchen and Erdener Prälat are the other significant sites. The fermentations are with natural yeasts and no Süssreserve. Vinification is mainly in stainless-steel tanks, with some wines aging in traditional Moselfuder.

J.J. Christoffel Erben is a tiny estate with mostly ungrafted vines in excellent sites like Erdener Treppchen and Ürziger Würzgarten. Hans Leo Christoffel, who produced many wines and distinguished them with a star system, retired in 2001 and leased his vineyards to Robert Eymael. Like Mönchhof, J.J. Christoffel Erben is now under the direction of Philippe Conzen. The Christoffel wines often show more weight and spice than Mönchhof's, despite the vines being from neighboring plots and the same sites as the winemaker. Winemaking here is also done through spontaneous fermentation in traditional Moselfuder.

**About the 'Happy Prälat' label**:

Mönchhof's Erdener Prälat carries the "happy prelate" label that adorns several producers' bottlings from this tiny 1.63-hectare site situated between Ürziger Würzgarten and Erdener Treppchen. Erdener Prälat, like the Mosel's Bernkasteler Doctor and Forster Kirchenstück in the Pfalz, is an exception to the 1971 Wine Law mandate that standardized all Einzellagen (single vineyards) with a default minimum size of 5 hectares.

The exceptions were granted based on historical classifications such as the historic 19th-century Prussian tax map of the Mittelhaardt, or, in the case of Erdener Prälat, a late 1890s trademark registered to the winery Peter Josef Berres (now C.H. Berres / Geschwister Berres), which registered "Erdener Prälat" as a protected trademark. Berres' registration included the illustration of a jovial, rotund Prälat, holding a glass of Riesling up to the light. A Prälat is a high-ranking clergyman.

![Mönchhof's Erdener Prälat label.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2026_Mosel-Erdener-Praelat-Label_JBMS.jpg)

The Prälat working the CMS blind tasting grid, no doubt. 

The kitschy label appears on about a dozen producers' Prälat bottlings, including Mönchhof, C.H. Berres, Dr. Hermann, and Dr. Loosen. It's just one of those things that I've long wondered about but never thought to ask until a visit to Mönchhof in 2026 (I even tasted at Berres in 2024 and didn't think to ask about it!). Philippe Conzen not only gave me the background history but also produced a mock bottle with the label as it was in 1935 (pictured below).

Erdener Prälat was originally a parcel within Erdener Treppchen named 'Im Onnertz.' The tiny 1.63-hectare parcel is an extremely steep, south-facing red-slate cliff. It was carved out and renamed Prälat in the late 19th century, named in honor of Prälat Professor Dr. Franz Steffens, a winemaker's son from neighboring Ürzig. A prized plot, Prälat (or Im Onnertz) is one of the warmest, most sheltered microclimates on the Mosel. Due to inheritance and land transfers over the decades, the tiny Prälat vineyard is split among several families, and rather than squabbling over the famous branding, an agreement was reached to allow producers holding land in the vineyard to use the trademarked "happy prelate" illustration on their traditional releases.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2026_1935-Berres-Pr--lat-Label-landscape_JBMS..jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2026_--rzig-Slate-landscape_JBMS-2.jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2026_Philippe-Conzen_JBMS-2.jpg)

A mock bottle of 1935 Prälat from Geschw. Berres. The red slate of Ürzig. Philippe Conzen, manager of Mönchhof & Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben in Ürzig.
### Rheinhold Haart, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/rheinhold-haart-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:57:13.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Haarts have been farming on the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen since 1337, making it one of the oldest private wine estates in the Mosel. They were early adopters of bottling wine rather than selling it in barrels, and began auctioning their wines in 1894\. Karl-Theo Haart took over his family's traditional Mosel wine estate in 1971 and, for decades, built its reputation as the finest wine estate in Piesport. Karl-Theo's sons, Johannes and Marcus, took over the family business in 2015.

The house sits directly on the left bank of the Mosel, with Goldtröpfchen rising steeply behind it. With 4 of Goldtröpfchen's 69 hectares in the vineyard's core, Haart is the benchmark producer of this famed Middle Mosel vineyard, planted with vines since at least Roman times. Proof of this is visible in the remains of the oldest Roman press house found on the Mosel, just a few meters from the winery.

Karl-Theo acquired the minuscule 0.098-hectare south-facing parcel with a higher clay content, known as Kreuzwingert, in 1993\. This Monopollage produces dry and semi-dry wines with striking and distinctive flavors. Likewise, Haart's parcels in Ohligsberg on the Mosel's right bank yield brilliant, savory wines from its steep hillside of gray-blue slate. To the west of Goldtröpfchen lies Grafenberg, known for its red slate and particularly prized for its Kabinette and Spätlesen.

Massal selection of old vines is the favored method of replanting, and Haart insists on careful hand-harvesting of healthy grapes and long fermentations with ambient yeast. The cellar is mainly stainless steel, with a small number of traditional 1000-Liter Moselfuder for the GGs.

Goldtröpfchen, the name translates to "little golden droplets," is often referenced in the Grosslagen discussion; a great grand cru that suffered from market confusion following the 1971 German Wine Law. The law intended to simplify labeling and administration by combining numerous smaller parcels into large collective sites, allowing bottlers to blend across several Einzellagen (single sites) and market them under a new single Grosslagen (collective site) name.

Some readers might ask, well, what's wrong with that? The Burgundians, for example, do the same thing, blending multiple vineyards and villages to create the regional blends Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc, and blending sometimes yields a better wine, as is common across the wine world from the Southern Rhône to the Napa Valley.

Well, rather than using a regional name, like Napa Valley, the architects of this new German law adopted real, historically respected names from small, specific vineyards and intentionally stretched them to encompass vast geographic zones. Large bottlers immediately took advantage of this and began marketing cheap regional blends under names that were almost indistinguishable to the everyday consumer from their original single vineyard names.

In the case of Piesport, a winemaking village on the Mosel established since at least Roman times, a small, steep, southwest-facing slate plot on the western flank of the Goldtröpfchen was used. This was the original Michelsberg, absorbed into the current 69-hectare Einzellage, Goldtröpfchen, in 1971, wiping it from the Katasteramt (German cadastral records), and then applied to the new Grosslagen named Piesporter Michelsberg, encompassing nine villages on the flat valley floor covering 1,375 hectares.

With the 10th amendment to Germany's 1971 wine law announced in January 2021, bottlers must explicitly write the word "Region" before the Grosslagen name on the label, Region Michelsberg instead of Piesporter Michelsberg, unless 85% of the grapes come from that specific village (which they never do). The word "Region" must appear in the same font size as the geographic name itself. The new rule takes effect with the 2026 vintage, and we will see how the large bottlers handle it, but effectively, Grosslagen are not a part of German wine's future.

I don't bother listing the Grosslagen of each Weinanbaugebiet on the regional profiles on this site. In my view, Grosslagen are a bit like the 1985 Austrian wine scandal in that both countries have moved far beyond these scandals (and I don't think that's too strong a word to use with the Grosslagen). They are barely worth mentioning anymore, except that I still encounter these wines in the US market.

Just yesterday, while calling on accounts in the Chicago suburbs, I noticed that the bottom shelves of several liquor stores had multiple offerings from Zeller Schwarz Katz, Niersteiner Gutes Domtal, and, of course, Piesporter Michelsberg, at prices so low, I don't see how the economics could pencil out at $6.99 retail, post-tariff, in 2026, but what do I know? Moselland's Black Cat bottling even had a fairly recent TikTok moment.

None of this has anything to do with Goldtröpfchen and its benchmark, "O.G." producer Rheinhold Haart. Goldtröpfchen is the largest VDP.Große Lage in the Mosel, with all 69 hectares of the official Einzellage classified as grand cru. Its south-and southwest-facing amphitheater of blue-gray Devonian slate is planted entirely with Riesling, as far as I'm aware.

Several Gewanne (named parcels, similar to the French concept of lieu-dits) were incorporated into the aforementioned 1971 enlargement of the site:

Laychen is the historic heart of the Goldtröpfchen, the central, steep, terraced slate core located directly in the U-shaped bend of the Mosel.

Hohlweid: A mid-to-upper slope sub-parcel situated within the central amphitheater.

Moselloreley is the easternmost bluff of the amphitheater.

Schubertslay is a 0.56-hectare plot within the heart of the amphitheater, classified as a separate VDP.Grosse Lage from the rest of Goldtröpfchen.

Kreuzwingert is directly east of Laychen and a monopole of Rheinhold Haart. 

Falkenberg sits along the upper ridge of the amphitheater.

Curiously, Michelsberg is not listed among the Gewann, but as I said, the 1971 law wiped it away, and who would want to use it at this point anyway. 

While VDP members, including Rheinhold Haart, and other top estates like Lehnert-Veit issue excellent dry wines from the Goldtröpfchen, Prädikatswein, including botrytis-affected upper Prädikats like Auslese, BA, and TBA, are consistently produced here, no doubt aided by the protected aspect and deep slate soils. Several leading estates have holdings in the Goldtröpfchen, including Schloss Lieser, Nik Weis, A.J. Adam, and Klaus Peter Keller.

I'm sometimes asked if there's a connection between the benchmark estate Rheinhold Haart and the younger winery Julian Haart, and indeed there is: Julian Haart is the nephew of Theo Haart, who established his own independent winery in 2010.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/Piesport-1.jpg)

A view of Goldtröpfchen on a rainy day, taken from Lehnert-Veit in Piesport.
### Joh. Jos. Prüm, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/joh-jos-prum-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:57:28.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

J.J. Prüm is the iconic estate of the Middle Mosel and progenitor of the light, piquant, mineral, and energetic wines with varying degrees of balancing sweetness, which many associate with Mosel Riesling and German wine in general. Riesling Prädikatswein is the name of the game here.\* While any Prädikat level at Prüm is a joy to drink, Auslesen with Gold Capsules (GK) and Long Gold Capsules (LGK) represent superlative selections from great vintages.

The estate produces only Riesling, and when young, the wines can show both natural carbon dioxide, which gives them a *spritzig* character, and a reductive quality derived from prolonged lees contact, spontaneous fermentation, and stainless-steel vinification. Prüm wines require time in the bottle to fully express themselves, though recent warmer vintages have yielded wines that are more immediately accessible. Aged J.J. Prüm wines have a reputation for developing the so-called petrol character, caused by a buildup of the chemical compound TDN, though I've found this less and less in recent vintages.

Before the founding of the estate in 1911, the Prüm family had been winegrowers in Wehlen for several hundred years. Johann Josef Prüm established the estate following the split-up of S.A. Prüm in 1911\. His son, Sebastian, began working at the estate in 1920 and developed the Prüm style during the 1930s and 1940s. Sebastian's son, Dr. Manfred Prüm, and his younger brother Wolfgang Prüm took over in 1969\. Manfred handled the cellar, while Wolfgang managed the vineyards. Dr. Katharina Prüm, a lawyer and Manfred's daughter, began working with Manfred in 2003\. From Sebastian to Manfred to Katharina, J.J. Prüm's style remains unchanged.

Mature and mostly ungrafted vines grow in Bernkastel, Wehlen, Graach, and Zeltingen. The vineyard holdings include 8.5 hectares of Graacher Himmelreich and 7.5 hectares of Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The Himmelreich delivers very clear, filigreed, and energetic Rieslings; the celebrated Wehlener Sonnenuhr produces the estate's most sensual, elegant, complex, and iconic wines. There's also Bernkastel Badstube, Bernkasteler Lay, Zeltingen Sonnenuhr, and Johannisbrünnchen.

As I write this on September 1, 2026, the 2025 vintage is now on offer, with the first deliveries expected in the United States in early November. Based on the hundreds of GGs tasted in Wiesbaden, Germany last week, not to mention many years of reading and writing German vintage reports, the 2025s seem to be shaping up as one of the greats in recent decades. It's mere coincidence, of course, but the "5s" keep giving us great German Riesling worth cellaring.

2025 was an early harvest for Katharina Prüm and her team, beginning on September 15\. Yes, the vintage was warm, and August was hot and dry, but rain and cooler weather arrived in late September. J.J. Prüm stands for Prädikatswein, but based on the 2025 GGs I just tasted, this will be a Mosel vintage of exceptional clarity, balance, and structural precision. J.J. Prüm produced the full spectrum of sites and Prädikats in this vintage. They will be a joy to sell and undoubtedly exhilarating to drink.

\*A tiny amount of trocken wine is produced, although it is a niche product and not generally exported.

![Jesse Becker, MS and Dr. Katharina, J.J. Prüm circa 2008.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/Jesse-Becker-and-Kathrina-Pruem-circa-2008-1.jpg)

Just look at these two youngsters! Jesse Becker, MS and Dr. Katharina, J.J. Prüm circa 2008.
### Braun, Riesling Ried Achleiten Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/braun-riesling-ried-achleiten-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T23:41:21.000Z
Fragrant and spicy nose. White peach, coupled with pungent green herbal aromas. Linden blossom on the nose and palate, with a longer, lingering, salty-mineral finish.

| Producer       | Braun            |
| -------------- | ---------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling         |
| Vineyard       | Ried Achleiten   |
| Classification | Smaragd          |
| Region         | Wachau           |
| Vintage        | 2024             |
| Format         | 750 ml           |
| Tasted         | May 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★+3 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Karthäuserhof, Riesling Sekt Brut NV
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/karthauserhof-riesling-sekt-brut-nv/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T22:36:45.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Apple pastry and lemon peel followed by slatey minerality. One really senses the Ruwer's slate in the nose, and the Riesling character is undeniable despite the toasty notes of autolysis. Piercingly zesty on the palate, with long and lingering mineral and citrus notes on the finish. Very fine perlage.

| Producer | Karthäuserhof |
| -------- | ------------- |
| Grape    | Riesling      |
| Vineyard | Sekt Brut     |
| Region   | Mosel         |
| Vintage  | NV            |
| Format   | 750 ml        |
| Tasted   | August 2026   |
| Score    | ★★★★4 stars   |

80% Riesling and 20% Pinot Blanc, vinified in a combination of INOX tanks and wooden barrels (assuming oak, size, and age unknown), with 36 months on the lees (technically, VDP.Sket.Prestige, but this is shipped as VDP.Sekt). Based on the 20XX vintage.

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rudolf May, Silvaner Retzstadter Himmelspfad GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rudolf-may-silvaner-retzstadter-himmelspfad-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T20:34:35.000Z
Blanched almond, peach skin, sweet green herbs, and wildflowers on the nose. The palate is dense with extract, yet has a long, lingering mineral presence. Superb.

| Producer       | Rudolf May              |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner                |
| Vineyard       | Retzstadter Himmelspfad |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Franken                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars             |

Retzstadt sits in a side valley of the Main, north of Würzburg. The Himmelspfad is a steep, south-facing Gewann of the greater Langenberg site. Only Himmelspfad is VDP.Große Lage; the rest of Langenberg is Erste Lage. Shell limestone. Producer tech sheet: 8 hours of skin maceration, spontaneous fermentation, aging in 1,200 L Stückfass.

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Karthäuserhof, VDP.Weingut
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/karthauserhof-vdp-weingut/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:57:57.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Karthäuserhof is a 28-hectare wine estate in the village of Eitelsbach, on the final stretch of the Ruwer before it empties into the Mosel. Carthusian monks founded the estate in 1335 after Prince-Elector Balduin of Luxembourg granted them the land, and it remained a monastery winery until Napoleon secularized it in 1811\. The Carthusians are a monastic order founded by St. Bruno of Köln in 1084 in the Chartreuse Mountains of France, famously known for developing the herbal liqueur "Chartreuse."

Karthäuserhof became state property after secularization in 1803\. It remained in government hands for eight years before being auctioned off in Paris to Valentin Leonardy, General Manager of the French Army, in 1811\. Through marriage and inheritance, the estate passed to the Rautenstrauch family, who owned and managed it for 127 years, cementing their name in the winery's official title: Rautenstrauch'sche Weingutsverwaltung Karthäuserhof (Winery Administration Karthäuserhof belonging to the Rautenstrauch family).

Karl Wilhelm Rautenstrauch, the second-generation Rautenstrauch, is credited with inventing the estate's iconic neck-only label. As the legend goes, he preferred to cool his wine in the Eitelsbach stream; because the water washed off the traditional body labels, he moved the label to the neck. In 1876, he married Kathinka Mühlens (of the famous "4711" Cologne perfume family), who introduced the brand's signature turquoise color, which still defines the brand today.

Hans Wilhelm Rautenstrauch, the third generation of Rautenstrauchs, managed the estate for over 50 years. He steered the winery through both World Wars and produced several great vintages. Hans Wilhelm's daughter, Maria Rautenstrauch, married Werner Tyrell in 1947, and upon Hans Wilhelm's death in 1951, Werner Tyrell took over the estate.

During Werner Tyrell's time, the 19-hectare monopole Karthäuserhofberg consisted of five separate sites, with Kronenberg as the filigree. It is the steepest, most central part of the slope, with iron-rich slate. The Kronenberg is typically the source for the Grosses Gewächs (GG) and top Prädikat wines. The other parcels are:

Burgberg: Located at the lower end of the slope, often providing the foundation and broader fruit for the estate's blends.

Orthsberg: Known for producing wines with intense mineral drive and sharp precision.

Sang: Situated on the edge of the vineyard, it often yields slightly different aromatic profiles due to its specific exposure.

Stirn: Located at the top of the hill where the vines are most exposed to the wind. Because it is cooler, this parcel is famous for maintaining high acidity and producing very "nervy," elegant wines.

Werner Tyrell's tenure oversaw outstanding vintages in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. Tyrell himself held the 1959 vintage in high regard, and the 1971 Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kronenberg feinste Auslese is considered a masterpiece of the Werner Tyrell era. The weather of the 1970s was very uneven, however, and because Prädikat wines must achieve their sugar naturally, no chaptalization is a hard-and-fast rule. Sadly, Tyrell was indicted for wine adulteration, which forced his resignation as President of the Grosser Ring.

In 1986, Christoph Tyrell, the sixth generation, took over the winery, implementing a "quality first" policy and adopting a single label for the entire production. Tyrell expanded dry Riesling from Karthäuserhofberg, 90% of which remains own-rooted, and planted Pinot Blanc on heavier soil at the foot of the hill. He famously removed every third row of vines across several sections of the vineyard, reducing total yield and improving sunlight and air circulation, leading to healthier, riper fruit.

Tyrell installed Ludwig Breiling as the estate administrator and cellar master and, in the 1980s, moved away from chemical fertilizers and pesticides toward horse manure, compost, and pheromone-based pest control. They removed the old wooden Fuder barrels and replaced them with stainless-steel vats to achieve a cleaner, more reductive style. All the changes paid off. Christoph Tyrell was named Winemaker of the Year twice: first by Feinschmecker in 1997, and again by Gault Millau in 2005.

On August 1, 2012, Christoph Tyrell handed over the winery to his first cousin, Albert P. Behler, in an intrafamily transaction. Behler hired Mathieu Kauffmann (the former cellar master of Champagne Bollinger and Von Buhl) as technical director and began restoring historic buildings and shifting toward more sustainable practices. Kauffmann is reintroducing Fuder to the cellar and is, of course, spearheading a Karthäuserhof Sekt program.

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2008_Germany-Mosel-Christoph-Tyrell-and-Jesse_BEC-1.jpg)

![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/09/2026_Mosel-Mathieu-Kaufmann-and-Dominik-V--lk_JBMS.jpg)

Tasting with Christoph Tyrell in 2008\. In the modern era (2026), the Sekt flows freely with Technical Director Mathieu Kaufmann and Operations Manager Dominik Völk.
### Prager, Riesling Ried Achleiten Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/prager-riesling-ried-achleiten-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T18:55:07.000Z
Wow! Stunning nose. The most fragrant and open-knit Achleiten I tasted today. Linden blossom and elderflower are intertwined with pungent green herbs and peach skin. The aromas carry over to the palate, with salted peach, wildflowers, and coriander lingering on the finish. Wine of the day thus far.

| Producer       | Prager            |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Ried Achleiten    |
| Classification | Smaragd           |
| Region         | Wachau            |
| Vintage        | 2024              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | May 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Domäne Wachau, Grüner Veltliner Ried Achleiten Smaragd 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/domane-wachau-gruner-veltliner-ried-achleiten-smaragd-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T16:35:07.000Z
Pink peppercorn and grapefruit rind on the nose. Peach and apple skin notes intertwine with a cool mineral aroma that carries over to the palate. Long and persistent spice and mineral flavors linger on the finish.

| Producer       | Domäne Wachau          |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard       | Ried Achleiten         |
| Classification | Smaragd                |
| Region         | Wachau                 |
| Vintage        | 2023                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | September 2025         |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### F.X. Pichler, Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/f-x-pichler-gruner-veltliner-kellerberg-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T16:30:11.000Z
An infusion of peppercorns and wild green herbs overlays ripe, fragrant apple aromas on the nose. With wonderful spice on the palate, this wine is wonderfully fresh and mineral-focused.

| Producer       | F.X. Pichler           |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard       | Kellerberg             |
| Classification | Smaragd                |
| Region         | Wachau                 |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | September 2025         |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rebholz, Riesling Sekt Extra Brut 2017
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rebholz-riesling-sekt-extra-brut-2017/
Last updated: 2026-08-29T19:55:38.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

2/3rds 24-hour skin maceration, 1/3rd whole-cluster pressed. INOX fermented with partial aging in small barrels before tirage. RS not published—blanched almond, apple pastry, cool, chalky minerality. The linear impression of the nose carries over to the palate, with toasted sourdough, Granny Smith apple, and an interesting cherry kernel note lingering on the finish. Exceptionally fine bubbles.

| Producer | Rebholz         |
| -------- | --------------- |
| Grape    | Riesling        |
| Vineyard | Sekt Extra Brut |
| Region   | Pfalz           |
| Vintage  | 2017            |
| Format   | 750 ml          |
| Tasted   | August 2026     |
| Score    | ★★★★4 stars     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Sekt Brut 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/reichsrat-von-buhl-riesling-sekt-brut-2020/
Last updated: 2026-08-29T19:20:28.000Z
**Disclosure:** I import and sell this wine through The German Wine Collection. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Sandstone, loess, and limestone. Part INOX, part Doppelstück. The producer's tech sheet states, "5 years on the yeast"; however, the AP number indicates "23" as the submission date, so \~33 months from tirage to disgorgement. 5.2 g/L RS. White mushroom, yeasty nose, freshly baked baguette, freshly sliced Granny Smith apple on the nose. A tart Riesling attack leads to lingering sour apple and lees on the finish. Delicious and "user-friendly!"

| Producer | Reichsrat von Buhl     |
| -------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape    | Riesling               |
| Vineyard | Sekt Brut              |
| Region   | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage  | 2020                   |
| Format   | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted   | August 2026            |
| Score    | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Peter Lauer, Riesling Ayler Lambertskirch GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/peter-lauer-riesling-ayler-lambertskirch-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-25T08:06:13.000Z
Weinversteigerungswein (auction wine) & Fassprobe (cask sample). Fragrant and openly expressive nose with apple blossoms, sweet green herbs, white peach, and bruised apple—quite a lot of ripe concentration on the palate, with elegant acidity and an extract-filled finish.

| Producer       | Peter Lauer         |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Ayler Lambertskirch |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Mosel               |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Peter Lauer, Riesling Ayler Schonfels GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/peter-lauer-riesling-ayler-schonfels-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-25T07:54:47.000Z
Expressive and open-knit nose showing apple blossoms, white peach, and bittersweet. A rather soft and lifted palate impression, showing cool mineral tones and elegant acidity.

| Producer       | Peter Lauer            |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Ayler Schonfels        |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Mosel                  |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken, Riesling Saarburger Rausch GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/forstmeister-geltz-zilliken-riesling-saarburger-rausch-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-25T07:47:07.000Z
Cool-toned mineral nose showing green herbs and a freshly sliced Granny Smith apple. More density and extract on the palate than the nose would suggest. Linear and very tight at this stage. I'd love to taste it again after some bottle development.

| Producer       | Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken |
| -------------- | --------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                    |
| Vineyard       | Saarburger Rausch           |
| Classification | GG                          |
| Region         | Mosel                       |
| Vintage        | 2025                        |
| Format         | 750 ml                      |
| Tasted         | August 2026                 |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### A. Christmann, Spätburgunder Neustadter Vogelsang GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/a-christmann-spatburgunder-neustadter-vogelsang-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:56:20.000Z
Yet another, very different expression from the Idig and Schild. The Vogelsang is the most perfumed and open-knit of the three. Fragrant with herbs and dried flowers. Ripe red cherries and wild strawberries carry over from the nose to the palate, followed by silky, fine tannins and a lingering floral finish.

| Producer       | A. Christmann        |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder        |
| Vineyard       | Neustadter Vogelsang |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2024                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus    |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### A. Christmann, Spätburgunder Gimmeldingener Schild GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/a-christmann-spatburgunder-gimmeldingener-schild-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:48:28.000Z
A very different personality from the Idig. Pure, red cherry fruit wrapped in vanilla and Christmas spices. Crushed red flowers and sweet red cherries carry the aroma from the nose to the palate. This is a lovely, red-fruited sibling to the dark and brooding Idig tasted before it. Lovely wine.

| Producer       | A. Christmann         |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder         |
| Vineyard       | Gimmeldingener Schild |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Pfalz                 |
| Vintage        | 2024                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | August 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars           |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### A. Christmann, Spätburgunder Königsbacher Idig GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/a-christmann-spatburgunder-konigsbacher-idig-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:42:01.000Z
Whoa, a fascinatingly exotic aroma unlike any other Pinot Noir tasted today. There's a tremendous depth of black cherry fruit here. Subtly seasoned with forest floor and roasted coffee. The palate reveals a core of black cherry fruit wrapped in dark chocolate and well-integrated wood. Superb.

| Producer       | A. Christmann           |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Königsbacher Idig       |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                   |
| Vintage        | 2024                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★++4 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Spätburgunder Kallstadter Saumagen GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-spatburgunder-kallstadter-saumagen-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:32:56.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Black cherry and cocoa nose, full of earthy, forest floor aromas. Sweet core of black cherry fruit on the palate, followed by coffee, toast, and warming vanilla from well-integrated new oak barrels.

| Producer       | Rings                |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder        |
| Vineyard       | Kallstadter Saumagen |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2024                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Spätburgunder Leinstadter Felsenberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-spatburgunder-leinstadter-felsenberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:26:33.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rich powdered cocoa nose, intense ripe black cherries, licorice, and espresso on the nose. Wonderful intensity and beautifully proportioned fruit. Expansive on the palate, yet the tannins are fine. Superb.

| Producer       | Rings                  |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Leinstadter Felsenberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Meyer-Näkel, Spätburgunder Dernauer Pfarrwingert GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/meyer-nakel-spatburgunder-dernauer-pfarrwingert-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:14:33.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

A pungent and captivating nose unlike any Pinot Noir tasted today. Dessicated flowers and autumn leaves, tobacco, and porcini mushroom accent ripe red cherry fruit on the nose. A savory saltiness follows on the palate, with lingering herbs and porcini carried well into the long finish. Totally unique.

| Producer       | Meyer-Näkel             |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Dernauer Pfarrwingert   |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Ahr                     |
| Vintage        | 2024                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★++4 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Jean Stodden, Spätburgunder Recher Herrenberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/jean-stodden-spatburgunder-recher-herrenberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T13:05:31.000Z
Outstanding aroma of wild strawberries, crushed dried flowers, aniseed, and the toast of well-integrated oak. The palate has a real personality: savory, salty, cherry pit, and almond kernel. One of the best Pinots tasted thus far.

| Producer       | Jean Stodden      |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder     |
| Vineyard       | Recher Herrenberg |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Ahr               |
| Vintage        | 2024              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Deutzerhof, Spätburgunder Mayschoss Mönchberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/deutzerhof-spatburgunder-mayschoss-monchberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:58:58.000Z
Ripe intensity of fruit with black cherries and dark chocolate on the nose. Licorice and crushed red flowers accent the immense fruit concentration on the nose and palate—long and lingering flavor supported by fine tannins. Wonderful Pinot Noir.

| Producer       | Deutzerhof          |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder       |
| Vineyard       | Mayschoss Mönchberg |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Ahr                 |
| Vintage        | 2024                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Jean Stodden, Spätburgunder Ahrweiler Rosenthal GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/jean-stodden-spatburgunder-ahrweiler-rosenthal-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:47:52.000Z
Ripe, intense cherry aroma with exotic spices such as aniseed, cardamom pods, and cola. The aromas carry over to the palate, with the warming sensation of well-integrated new oak. Medium tannins lend a chewy consistency to the long, lingering flavors on the finish.

| Producer       | Jean Stodden        |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder       |
| Vineyard       | Ahrweiler Rosenthal |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Ahr                 |
| Vintage        | 2024                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Meyer-Näkel, Spätburgunder Ahrweiler Silberberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/meyer-nakel-spatburgunder-ahrweiler-silberberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:41:26.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Wonderfully intense cherry pit and cherry liqueur nose, accented with licorice, espresso, and the warmth of fully integrated new wood. Chocolate-covered cherries and espresso bean carry through to the palate, with fine tannins and a lingering aftertaste—a strong 4.

| Producer       | Meyer-Näkel          |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder        |
| Vineyard       | Ahrweiler Silberberg |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Ahr                  |
| Vintage        | 2024                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Deutzerhof, Spätburgunder Ahrweiler Eck GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/deutzerhof-spatburgunder-ahrweiler-eck-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:24:37.000Z
Beautiful ripe red cherry, strawberry nose. Fragrant with crushed dried flowers and herbs. Red cherry liqueur, licorice, and dried herbs linger on the palate. Near-perfect oak integration. Superb.

| Producer       | Deutzerhof    |
| -------------- | ------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder |
| Vineyard       | Ahrweiler Eck |
| Classification | GG            |
| Region         | Ahr           |
| Vintage        | 2024          |
| Format         | 750 ml        |
| Tasted         | August 2026   |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Forster Freundstück GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/reichsrat-von-buhl-riesling-forster-freundstuck-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:15:17.000Z
A nose consisting mainly of smoke and minerals at this stage. Blackberry, cherry, and cassis comprise the fruit profile of this wine—intensely salty and mineral on the dark, brooding palate. Hold for a decade or more.

| Producer       | Reichsrat von Buhl  |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Forster Freundstück |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Pfalz               |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Von Winning, Riesling Forster Kirchenstück GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/von-winning-riesling-forster-kirchenstuck-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:08:13.000Z
Obvious new wood on the nose, flint, smoke, and toast dominate the aroma. Must be some wonderfully luxurious wood here because I've never tasted such a dense and concentrated Riesling wrapped in this very specific oak profile, lending cinnamon, cedar, and toastiness to this very young Kirchenstück.

| Producer       | Von Winning          |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Forster Kirchenstück |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Forster Kirchenstück GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/reichsrat-von-buhl-riesling-forster-kirchenstuck-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T12:01:04.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

A Kirchenstück with some high-toned fruit and floral aromas to go along with the deep and smoky qualities of this site. Sweet red cherries and peach sit atop a smoky wall of wet stones and gun flint. Wonderful stone fruit and red cherry flavor on the palate. Still a baby, and I feel it's a stronger 4 than a 4+. Needs time.

| Producer       | Reichsrat von Buhl   |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Forster Kirchenstück |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Riesling Forster Kirchenstück GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-von-bassermann-jordan-riesling-forster-kirchenstuck-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T11:50:47.000Z
Intense nose of black and red fruits, smoky minerals, and gunflint. These dark and brooding descriptors apply equally to the palate. There's plenty of density and phenolic structure to suggest this is a wine that will reward long-term aging, but there's little point in drinking it now.

| Producer       | Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Forster Kirchenstück      |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Acham-Magin, Riesling Forster Kirchenstück GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/acham-magin-riesling-forster-kirchenstuck-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T11:43:50.000Z
An aroma of immense mineral depth, wet stone, gunflint, and ash. A deeply concentrated, dense, and mineral wine that does not give the drinker much accessibility at this stage. Possibly a wine to cellar for at least a decade before checking in on its development. Quality seems exceptionally high, but will require time in the bottle to show its full potential.

| Producer       | Acham-Magin          |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Forster Kirchenstück |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Von Winning, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/von-winning-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T10:18:00.000Z
Fassprobe (cask sample). Here, the new wood seems better integrated than in Von Winning's '25 Pechstein GG. Smoky gunflint aromas wrapped in the toast of wood. A cool mineral impression on the palate, with lingering green herbs and oak. It's a stylistic choice, of course. Very good.

| Producer       | Von Winning            |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer      |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/reichsrat-von-buhl-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T10:05:41.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Wood influence, noticeable in this context, but unlike the von Buhl Pechstein GG tasted earlier today, this is well-integrated, adding to Ungeheuer's inherent smoky depth. Red-berried fruit and an expansive palate impression make this a step ahead of von Buhl's Pechstein in this vintage. An awesome wine well deserving of its +.

| Producer       | Reichsrat von Buhl |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling           |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer  |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Pfalz              |
| Vintage        | 2025               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Georg Mosbacher, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/georg-mosbacher-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:57:09.000Z
Wow! Cassis upfront. Super-ripe peach coupled with red berries and sea salt. Just a gorgeous, open-knit, and inviting expression on the nose. Wonderful red fruit, peach, and mineral-driven finish. Top level.

| Producer       | Georg Mosbacher   |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Pfalz             |
| Vintage        | 2025              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-bassermann-jordan-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T11:44:50.000Z
Wonderful, open, deep, and smoky nose with intense plum and red-berry fruit, underlying the flinty minerality. The red plum and berry flavors continue on the palate, finishing with mineral and phenolic tension—wonderful wine.

| Producer       | Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer         |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-burklin-wolf-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:44:59.000Z
Wonderful, open-knit fragrance on the nose with red-berried fruit, green herbs, and wildflowers. Smoky minerals carry from the nose to the palate, with a wonderful cassis and red-berry flavor lingering on the finish.

| Producer       | Dr. Bürklin-Wolf  |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Pfalz             |
| Vintage        | 2025              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Acham-Magin, Riesling Forster Ungeheuer GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/achim-magin-riesling-forster-ungeheuer-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-30T18:44:25.000Z
Cool-toned minerality on the nose, with green herbs and salted peach aromas. Ripe and intense peach on the palate, with mint and savory herbs lingering. Wonderful concentration of flavor, length, and chewy phenolic grip. Excellent.

| Producer       | Acham-Magin       |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Forster Ungeheuer |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Pfalz             |
| Vintage        | 2025              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Von Winning, Riesling Forster Pechstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/von-winning-riesling-forster-pechstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:28:46.000Z
Fassprobe (tank sample). New oak, of course. Smoky minerals lie beneath a layer of gorgeous oak aroma—quite an intriguing nose. Cool, flinty minerals are present on the palate, wrapped in a package of luxurious new-oak barrels. Pechstein, yes. Dr. Bürklin-Wolf's Pechstein, it is not.

| Producer       | Von Winning            |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Forster Pechstein      |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Reichsrat von Buhl, Riesling Forster Pechstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/reichsrat-von-buhl-riesling-forster-pechstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:21:55.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

A more floral and wood-influenced Pechstein than Acham-Magin, Bürklin-Wolf, or Bassermann-Jordan. Warm acacia notes and wildflowers feature prominently, with an underlying mineral aroma lingering in the background. Concentrated ripe peach and apricot on the palate, with lingering minerals on the finish.

| Producer       | Reichsrat von Buhl     |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Forster Pechstein      |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan, Riesling Forster Pechstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-von-bassermann-jordan-riesling-forster-pechstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:14:05.000Z
A more fragrant and open-knit Pechstein than Bürklin-Wolf's or Acham-Magnin's. There's still an unmistakable flinty minerality here, dominating the aromatic profile before giving way to the peach and apricot notes beneath. A flavorful and expansive palate impression with gunflint notes lingering on the finish.

| Producer       | Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Forster Pechstein         |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Forster Pechstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-burklin-wolf-riesling-forster-pechstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T09:06:19.000Z
An exceptionally mineral, flinty nose, with salted peach and lemon balm aromas. Linear palate impression, but with lingering flintiness and an almost chewy density of fruit concentration. Fantastic acidity and grippy phenolics make for an impressive Pechstein. Superb wine.

| Producer       | Dr. Bürklin-Wolf  |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Forster Pechstein |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Pfalz             |
| Vintage        | 2025              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Acham-Magin, Riesling Forster Pechstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/acham-magin-riesling-forster-pechstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:59:10.000Z
Fantastic gunflint nose. Ripe, concentrated stone fruit plays a supporting role to the smoky minerals and cool, minty herbs driving the aroma—a straight, mineral palate impression with lingering saltiness and river stones on the finish.

| Producer       | Acham-Magin       |
| -------------- | ----------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling          |
| Vineyard       | Forster Pechstein |
| Classification | GG                |
| Region         | Pfalz             |
| Vintage        | 2025              |
| Format         | 750 ml            |
| Tasted         | August 2026       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Pfeffingen, Riesling Ungsteiner Herrenberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/pfeffingen-riesling-ungsteiner-herrenberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:45:30.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

A straighter, more mineral-oriented wine than the '25 Weilberg GG tasted next to it. Still, quite expansive and fragrant, with apple blossoms and red fruits. There's almost a strawberry note on the nose, which is lovely. White peach and bitter green herbs linger on the finish. Superb and showy right now.

| Producer       | Pfeffingen            |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling              |
| Vineyard       | Ungsteiner Herrenberg |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Pfalz                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | August 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars           |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Pfeffingen, Riesling Ungsteiner Weilberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/pfeffingen-riesling-ungsteiner-weilberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:37:56.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Wow. What a lovely and inviting nose of peach and apple blossoms, concentrated and ripe stone fruit with hints of cassis and mint. There's only a whiff of unresolved SO2, which is not unusual at this stage. The red-fruit, cassis, and floral notes continue on the palate with bitter green herbs lingering on the finish—a showy GG in its youth.

| Producer       | Pfeffingen          |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Ungsteiner Weilberg |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Pfalz               |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Riesling Ungsteiner Weilberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-riesling-ungsteiner-weilberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:30:52.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Gorgeous aroma, loaded with florals like apple blossom and acacia. Ripe peach and apricot notes carry over from the nose to the palate—a savory, salty impression with a long, wonderfully perfumed finish. A solid range of 2025 GG Rieslings from the excellent Rings estate in Freinsheim.

| Producer       | Rings               |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Ungsteiner Weilberg |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Pfalz               |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Riesling Kallstadter Annaberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-riesling-kallstadter-annaberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:22:54.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Whoa, very open and expansive nose. A lot is going on here: pretty florals and crushed herbs, salted peach, and ripe apricots. Cooling tones of river rock and mint. Savory and reductive but absent of overt or obvious reductive notes. The total package. It's tempting to give this a +, but I'll leave it at 4 for now.

| Producer       | Rings                |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Kallstadter Annaberg |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rings, Riesling Kallstadter Saumagen GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rings-riesling-kallstadter-saumagen-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:15:57.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Expansive, smoky, fully integrated reductive nose; lees and gunflint come to the fore. Grilled peach and salted lemon lead the way to cool minerals, transferring from the nose to the palate. Rings' signature savory reductiveness is present here but fully integrated in this vintage. Very satisfying.

| Producer       | Rings                |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Kallstadter Saumagen |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Philipp Kuhn, Riesling Kallstadter Saumagen GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/philipp-kuhn-riesling-kallstadter-saumagen-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T08:09:52.000Z
Wonderful fragrance of wildflowers, apple blossoms, white peach, and riverstone. Cool, citrus-driven palate impression with salted peach and minerals lingering on the wonderfully long finish. Excellent.

| Producer       | Philipp Kuhn         |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Kallstadter Saumagen |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Pfalz                |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Philipp Kuhn, Riesling Grosskarlbacher Im Grossen Garten GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/philipp-kuhn-riesling-grosskarlbacher-im-grossen-garten-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:59:51.000Z
Linear nose focusing on cool river stones, wildflowers, and white peach. Wonderful concentration of flavor on the palate, delivered in a tight and focused package of mineral-infused apple and stone fruits. Excellent.

| Producer       | Philipp Kuhn                      |
| -------------- | --------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                          |
| Vineyard       | Grosskarlbacher Im Grossen Garten |
| Classification | GG                                |
| Region         | Pfalz                             |
| Vintage        | 2025                              |
| Format         | 750 ml                            |
| Tasted         | August 2026                       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Philipp Kuhn, Riesling Laumersheimer Kirschgarten GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/philipp-kuhn-riesling-laumersheimer-kirschgarten-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:53:56.000Z
Green Gannysmith apple and fresh herbs on the nose. There's a cooling spearmint and wildflower note coupled with wet river stones. Cool-toned palate impression focused on minerals and minty freshness. Very nice.

| Producer       | Philipp Kuhn               |
| -------------- | -------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                   |
| Vineyard       | Laumersheimer Kirschgarten |
| Classification | GG                         |
| Region         | Pfalz                      |
| Vintage        | 2025                       |
| Format         | 750 ml                     |
| Tasted         | August 2026                |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Knipser, Riesling Laumersheimer Steinbuckel GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/knipser-riesling-laumersheimer-steinbuckel-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:45:08.000Z
An intriguing, cool-toned nose with smoky depth. Almost the opposite of the Knipser Mandelpfad, which was all yellow fruit. Cassis and red berry fruit aromas, so rarely found in Riesling. Cooling minerals and mint linger on the long red-berried finish. Love this wine.

| Producer       | Knipser                   |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Laumersheimer Steinbuckel |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Knipser, Riesling Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/knipser-riesling-dirmsteiner-mandelpfad-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:39:11.000Z
Yellow fruits on the broad and open-knit nose, ripe peach and Golden Delicious apple with the leesy impression of cut hay. Juicy, ripe peach and apricot are in ample supply on the palate, with lingering lees and minerality on the finish.

| Producer       | Knipser                |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Dirmsteiner Mandelpfad |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Pfalz                  |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Philipp Kuhn, Riesling Zellertaler Schwarzer Herrgott GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/philipp-kuhn-riesling-zellertaler-schwarzer-herrgott-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:32:01.000Z
Cool, smoky minerals and salted lemon cut through on the nose, with white peach and freshly sliced apple in ample supply. A mineral-first palate impression with layered depth and ample fruit concentration. Superb.

| Producer       | Philipp Kuhn                   |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling                       |
| Vineyard       | Zellertaler Schwarzer Herrgott |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Pfalz                          |
| Vintage        | 2025                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                    |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Battenfeld-Spanier, Riesling Zellertaler Kreuzberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/battenfeld-spanier-riesling-zellertaler-kreuzberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:21:33.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

There's an immediate sense of depth and ripe concentration to this peach- and apricot-filled nose. Smoky minerals and acacia transfer from the nose to the palate. Ripe yet mineral-driven, with an expansive palate impression, yet lingers with a long saline finish.

| Producer       | Battenfeld-Spanier    |
| -------------- | --------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling              |
| Vineyard       | Zellertaler Kreuzberg |
| Classification | GG                    |
| Region         | Pfalz                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                  |
| Format         | 750 ml                |
| Tasted         | August 2026           |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Morstein GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-morstein-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-24T07:10:13.000Z
A stunning achievement of depth, concentration, and filigree. Exotic ripe peach and apple blossom aromas seem to have affixed themselves to stones and regenerated into liquid form. Minerals and finely tuned acidity hold this matter stream together and then some, with a long, acid-driven finish that seems to go on forever—a profound and impressive wine of the rarest kind.

| Producer       | Wittmann             |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling             |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Morstein |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Rheinhessen          |
| Vintage        | 2025                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-brunnenhauschen-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T15:44:30.000Z
Like the ripest peach imaginable with exotic florals and sweet herbs intermingled. Wet river stone and vanilla play a supporting role to the tremendous concentration and depth found on the nose and palate. Acidity and tension not at all lacking. Flat-out impressive.

| Producer       | Wittmann                    |
| -------------- | --------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                    |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen |
| Classification | GG                          |
| Region         | Rheinhessen                 |
| Vintage        | 2025                        |
| Format         | 750 ml                      |
| Tasted         | August 2026                 |
| Score          | ★★★★++4 stars plus plus     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Kirchspiel GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-kirchspiel-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T15:36:46.000Z
Like a garden full of summer flowers, sweet with nectar and fragrance. The highly concentrated yet charming nose draws you in for an explosion of ripe stone fruit, mineral, and floral aromas that transfer from the nose to the palate. A long and concentrated palate impression that somehow seems open and expressive next to other Rheinhessen wines tasted today—a baby with a long future ahead.

| Producer       | Wittmann               |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling               |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Kirchspiel |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Rheinhessen            |
| Vintage        | 2025                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus      |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wittmann, Riesling Westhofener Aulerde GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wittmann-riesling-westhofener-aulerde-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T15:30:03.000Z
Gorgeous perfume of peach skin, sweet nectarine, and apricot with overlying sweet florals like honeysuckle and jasmine. Somehow, more open-knit at this stage than the Roter Hang wines tasted previously. Deep and expansive ripe fruit on the palate, with an undeniable mineral core driving through to the end. A tremendous Riesling and best of the tasting thus far.

| Producer       | Wittmann            |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling            |
| Vineyard       | Westhofener Aulerde |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Rheinhessen         |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Kühling-Gillot, Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/kuhling-gillot-riesling-nackenheimer-rothenberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T15:19:00.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rotliegend. Showing a whiff of S02, not at all unusual for a wine at this stage. Showing an additional notch of smoky depth next to the Gunderloch Rothenberg. More wood? Highly concentrated and deep. There's a slight burn of alcohol on the nose. Roasted pears and grilled peach. Powerful, dense, and tightly wound on the palate. It's undoubtedly a top-scoring wine, but I'll leave it at 4 stars+ for now.

| Producer       | Kühling-Gillot          |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                |
| Vineyard       | Nackenheimer Rothenberg |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Rheinhessen             |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Gunderloch, Riesling Nackenheimer Rothenberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/gunderloch-riesling-nackenheimer-rothenberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T15:11:37.000Z
Rotliegend. Showing a whiff of S02, not at all unusual for a wine at this stage. The exotic spice and perfume of this site are subdued by a sense of tightness. Nevertheless, there's tremendous focus and concentration on the nose and palate. Leaving this at 4 stars for now.

| Producer       | Gunderloch              |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                |
| Vineyard       | Nackenheimer Rothenberg |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Rheinhessen             |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars             |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wagner-Stempel, Riesling Siefersheimer Heerkretz GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wagner-stempel-riesling-siefersheimer-heerkretz-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:56:49.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Rhyolith (volcanic). Concentrated yellow peach and apple on the nose, accented with gunflint and river rock. Terrific tension on the palate with lingering saltiness and florals.

| Producer       | Wagner-Stempel          |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                |
| Vineyard       | Siefersheimer Heerkretz |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Rheinhessen             |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars             |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Bischel, Riesling Siefersheimer Heerkretz GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/bischel-riesling-siefersheimer-heerkretz-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:49:10.000Z
Rhyolith (volcanic). Tremendous smoky depth on the nose, with matchstick and gunflint driving the ripe apple and peach in second position. Salty palate impression, with concentrated stone fruit lingering on the finish. Much too young but superb nonetheless.

| Producer       | Bischel                 |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                |
| Vineyard       | Siefersheimer Heerkretz |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Rheinhessen             |
| Vintage        | 2025                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Knewitz, Riesling Nieder-Hilbersheimer Steinacker GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/knewitz-riesling-nieder-hilbersheimer-steinacker-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:38:52.000Z
Limestone. Terrific smoky depth on the tightly wound nose. Loving the focus here, and yet there's a tremendous concentration of ripe yellow peach fruit in the aroma. Superb tension and depth on the palate. Not at all ready to drink, but enormous potential lies ahead.

| Producer       | Knewitz                         |
| -------------- | ------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                        |
| Vineyard       | Nieder-Hilbersheimer Steinacker |
| Classification | GG                              |
| Region         | Rheinhessen                     |
| Vintage        | 2025                            |
| Format         | 750 ml                          |
| Tasted         | August 2026                     |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Knewitz, Riesling Nieder-Hilbersheimer Honigberg GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/knewitz-riesling-nieder-hilbersheimer-honigberg-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:31:17.000Z
Limestone. Straight and mineral-driven nose. Focused aromas and very tight at this stage. The linear, focused, salty-mineral aroma carries over to the palate. There's good concentration on the palate, and undoubtedly there's something good here, but it's difficult to draw out complexity from a wine that might be better evaluated in 10 years.

| Producer       | Knewitz                        |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Riesling                       |
| Vineyard       | Nieder-Hilbersheimer Honigberg |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Rheinhessen                    |
| Vintage        | 2025                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Max Müller, Silvaner Volklacher Ratsherr GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/max-muller-silvaner-volklacher-ratsherr-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:19:04.000Z
Shell limestone and Keuper. Maindreieck, but with some Keuper. Strong impression of bitter orange and citrus blossom on the nose. Highly mineral and energetic aroma. Terrific tension on the palate, which drives the long-lasting finish with chalky minerals and grip.

| Producer       | Max Müller          |
| -------------- | ------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner            |
| Vineyard       | Volklacher Ratsherr |
| Classification | GG                  |
| Region         | Franken             |
| Vintage        | 2025                |
| Format         | 750 ml              |
| Tasted         | August 2026         |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rainer Sauer, Silvaner Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rainer-sauer-silvaner-erscherndorfer-am-lumpen-1655-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:11:15.000Z
Shell limestone. The prime parcel of the Eschendorfer Lump. Very ripe yellow peach, bordering on tropical on the nose. Sea salt and bitter orange follow on the palate. Well-structured and tense, with a long, lingering mineral finish.

| Producer       | Rainer Sauer                  |
| -------------- | ----------------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner                      |
| Vineyard       | Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 |
| Classification | GG                            |
| Region         | Franken                       |
| Vintage        | 2025                          |
| Format         | 750 ml                        |
| Tasted         | August 2026                   |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus             |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Max Müller, Silvaner Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/max-muller-silvaner-erscherndorfer-am-lumpen-1655-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T14:04:11.000Z
Shell limestone. The prime parcel of the Eschendorfer Lump. Smoky depth straightaway on the nose. Salted yellow peach and apricot notes carry over from the nose to the palate. Terrific tension and depth in this wine.

| Producer       | Max Müller                    |
| -------------- | ----------------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner                      |
| Vineyard       | Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 |
| Classification | GG                            |
| Region         | Franken                       |
| Vintage        | 2025                          |
| Format         | 750 ml                        |
| Tasted         | August 2026                   |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Horst Sauer, Silvaner Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/horst-sauer-silvaner-erscherndorfer-am-lumpen-1655-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T13:58:57.000Z
Shell limestone. The prime parcel of the Eschendorfer Lump. Grilled peach and apricot straightaway on the nose. Wet rock and apple blossom accent the intensely concentrated yellow stone fruit component. Clean and herbal palate impression with notes of thyme and lemon balm. What's not to like?

| Producer       | Horst Sauer                   |
| -------------- | ----------------------------- |
| Grape          | Silvaner                      |
| Vineyard       | Erscherndorfer Am Lumpen 1655 |
| Classification | GG                            |
| Region         | Franken                       |
| Vintage        | 2025                          |
| Format         | 750 ml                        |
| Tasted         | August 2026                   |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Luckert, Silvaner Sulzfelder Maustal GG 2025
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/luckert-silvaner-sulzfelder-maustal-gg-2025/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T13:15:46.000Z
A vibrant, yellow-fruited nose. Freshly sliced Golden Delicious apple and yellow peach. Wet river stone and jasmine overlay a concentration of fruit and stone. The palate shows concentrated fruit and lingering minerality on the finish. Excellent.

| Producer       | Luckert            |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Silvaner           |
| Vineyard       | Sulzfelder Maustal |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Franken            |
| Vintage        | 2025               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars        |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. Heger, Chardonnay Ihringer Winklerberg Hinter Winklen GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-heger-chardonnay-ihringer-winklerberg-hinter-winklen-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T13:02:50.000Z
Where I most expected to find ripeness and oak, I find freshness instead. Undoubtedly, a new oak framing is evident here, but yuzu, white flowers, and pineapple pair nicely with the wood. Terrific tension and cut drive a long mineral finish.

| Producer       | Dr. Heger                           |
| -------------- | ----------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Chardonnay                          |
| Vineyard       | Ihringer Winklerberg Hinter Winklen |
| Classification | GG                                  |
| Region         | Baden                               |
| Vintage        | 2024                                |
| Format         | 750 ml                              |
| Tasted         | August 2026                         |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Franz Keller, Chardonnay Oberrotweiler Kirchberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/franz-keller-chardonnay-oberrotweiler-kirchberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T12:54:22.000Z
A producer style I happen to like and whose Pinot Noirs I've rated highly in the past. The most overtly oaky Chardonnay of the flight; however, it seems tight and non-oxidative, with very light toasting. Cut hay and Chamomile interplay with the toasted brioche lent by new oak. Golden Delicious apple and lemon infuse the palate with wood and reductive notes, leaving a fresh "Germanic" alternative to white Burgundy.

| Producer       | Franz Keller            |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Chardonnay              |
| Vineyard       | Oberrotweiler Kirchberg |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Baden                   |
| Vintage        | 2024                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | August 2026             |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wöhrle, Chardonnay Lahrer Kronenbühler Gottsacker GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wohrle-chardonnay-lahrer-kronenbuhler-gottsacker-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T12:45:33.000Z
More fruit-forward than the Unten an der Teufelslochgasse. Ripe yellow fruits lead the way with apple pastry and lemon custard. River stone and lees are present, but secondary to the fruit. Plenty of salinity on the palate, though, with a linear focus and juicy cut.

| Producer       | Wöhrle                         |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Chardonnay                     |
| Vineyard       | Lahrer Kronenbühler Gottsacker |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Baden                          |
| Vintage        | 2024                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wöhrle, Chardonnay Lahrer Kronenbühler Unten an der Teufelslochgasse GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wohrle-chardonnay-lahrer-kronenbuhler-unten-an-der-teufelslochgasse-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T12:39:25.000Z
Goes in a slightly more reductive direction than the Heitlinger Heinberg Chardonnay. Showing smokiness and lees right away on the nose. Singed pineapple, toasted brioche, and well-integrated oak complete the picture. An intensely salty and smoky palate follows, with yellow fruits lingering on the very long finish.

| Producer       | Wöhrle                                            |
| -------------- | ------------------------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Chardonnay                                        |
| Vineyard       | Lahrer Kronenbühler Unten an der Teufelslochgasse |
| Classification | GG                                                |
| Region         | Baden                                             |
| Vintage        | 2024                                              |
| Format         | 750 ml                                            |
| Tasted         | August 2026                                       |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                                       |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Heitlinger, Chardonnay Tiefenbacher Spiegelberg Heinberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/heitlinger-chardonnay-tiefenbacher-spiegelberg-heinberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T12:21:51.000Z
The yellow-fruited nose of Golden Delicious apple and lemon curd draws you into a smoky reductive note of gunflint and ash. Chamomile and cereal grain suggest fine lees work and fully integrated oak aging. Larger barrels and/or small, used French barrels seem likely here. The palate shows a salty, mineral-driven finish with lingering lees and Chamomile notes. Very good.

| Producer       | Heitlinger                        |
| -------------- | --------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Chardonnay                        |
| Vineyard       | Tiefenbacher Spiegelberg Heinberg |
| Classification | GG                                |
| Region         | Baden                             |
| Vintage        | 2024                              |
| Format         | 750 ml                            |
| Tasted         | August 2026                       |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Heid, Lemberger Fellbacher Lämmler GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/heid-lemberger-fellbacher-lammler-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:49:15.000Z
Wine of the tasting thus far. Intriguing, spice-laden nose loaded with cassis and desiccated flowers. Pungent intensity continues on the palate. Juicy and fresh, but with lingering spices and crushed florals. Top class.

| Producer       | Heid               |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Lemberger          |
| Vineyard       | Fellbacher Lämmler |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Württemberg        |
| Vintage        | 2023               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★★+4 stars plus  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Beurer, Lemberger Stettener Mönchberg Schalksberg GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/beurer-lemberger-stettener-monchberg-schalksberg-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:43:06.000Z
Leads with intense black fruit on the nose, with maduro cigar wrapper, black tea, and peppercorn. Juicy and fresh palate impression with lingering spice. Excellent.

| Producer       | Beurer                          |
| -------------- | ------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Lemberger                       |
| Vineyard       | Stettener Mönchberg Schalksberg |
| Classification | GG                              |
| Region         | Württemberg                     |
| Vintage        | 2023                            |
| Format         | 750 ml                          |
| Tasted         | August 2026                     |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Staatsweingut Weinsberg, Lemberger Weinsberger Schemelsberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/staatsweingut-weinsberg-lemberger-weinsberger-schemelsberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:37:04.000Z
Loam and clay. Toast of new wood is forward on the nose. Ripe black cherry fruit, dried herbs. Juicy acidity on the palate, but wood asserts itself again. Good, but oaked beyond this palate's preference.

| Producer       | Staatsweingut Weinsberg  |
| -------------- | ------------------------ |
| Grape          | Lemberger                |
| Vineyard       | Weinsberger Schemelsberg |
| Classification | GG                       |
| Region         | Württemberg              |
| Vintage        | 2024                     |
| Format         | 750 ml                   |
| Tasted         | August 2026              |
| Score          | ★★★3 stars               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Graf Neipperg, Lemberger Neipperger Schlossberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/graf-neipperg-lemberger-neipperger-schlossberg-gg-2024-2/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:29:08.000Z
While dominated by ripe fruit and wood, it's the first Neipperg wine today with real depth and nuance. Tea leaf, cigar box, and violets accent a ripe concentration of black fruit. Juicy and fresh on the palate with lingering tobacco and floral notes.

| Producer       | Graf Neipperg          |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Lemberger              |
| Vineyard       | Neipperger Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Württemberg            |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wöhrwag, Lemberger Stuttgarter Herzogenberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wohrwag-lemberger-stuttgarter-herzogenberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:22:15.000Z
The Wöhrwag wines tasted thus far have been impressive. Exotically spiced nose with black tea and bergamot, crushed dried flowers, and ripe black fruit. New oak shows itself on the palate, but this remains terrifically fresh and inviting. You want to keep drinking it.

| Producer       | Wöhrwag                  |
| -------------- | ------------------------ |
| Grape          | Lemberger                |
| Vineyard       | Stuttgarter Herzogenberg |
| Classification | GG                       |
| Region         | Württemberg              |
| Vintage        | 2024                     |
| Format         | 750 ml                   |
| Tasted         | August 2026              |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Schnaitmann, Lemberger Fellbacher Lämmler GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/schnaitmann-lemberger-fellbacher-lammler-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:14:46.000Z
**Disclosure:** I have a commercial relationship with this producer. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Crushed dried flowers, cassis, Christmas spice, and black tea. Gorgeous and intriguing nose. Cherries and cassis burst on the palate with lingering tea and bergamot flavors. Superb freshness and intrigue at this early stage.

| Producer       | Schnaitmann        |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Lemberger          |
| Vineyard       | Fellbacher Lämmler |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Württemberg        |
| Vintage        | 2024               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars        |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Aldinger, Lemberger Fellbacher Lämmler GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/graf-neipperg-lemberger-neipperger-schlossberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T10:07:42.000Z
Fantastic black cherry liqueur nose, black forest cake, crushed flowers. Wonderful freshness and flavor impact on the palate, showing black truffle and violets lingering over the sweet core of black fruit. Superb.

| Producer       | Graf Neipperg          |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Lemberger              |
| Vineyard       | Neipperger Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Württemberg            |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★★                   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Haidle, Lemberger Stettener Mönchberg Gehrnhalde GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/haidle-lemberger-stettener-monchberg-gehrnhalde-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:54:43.000Z
Colored marl and reed sandstone. The noses on these Haidle Lembergers draw you in right away. Ripe and intensely sweet black fruit coupled with fennel and violets. Fresh and elegant palate impression with a black peppercorn note lingering on the finish.

| Producer       | Haidle                         |
| -------------- | ------------------------------ |
| Grape          | Lemberger                      |
| Vineyard       | Stettener Mönchberg Gehrnhalde |
| Classification | GG                             |
| Region         | Württemberg                    |
| Vintage        | 2024                           |
| Format         | 750 ml                         |
| Tasted         | August 2026                    |
| Score          | ★★★★+                          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Haidle, Lemberger Stettener Berge GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/haidle-lemberger-stettener-berge-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:46:01.000Z
Colored marl. A captivating nose of black cherry liqueur, licorice, sassafras, dried florals, and herbs. Very fragrant and open-knit. Wonderful freshness and balance on the palate, with long and concentrated black fruits and herbal notes.

| Producer       | Haidle          |
| -------------- | --------------- |
| Grape          | Lemberger       |
| Vineyard       | Stettener Berge |
| Classification | GG              |
| Region         | Württemberg     |
| Vintage        | 2024            |
| Format         | 750 ml          |
| Tasted         | August 2026     |
| Score          | ★★★★            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Graf Neipperg, Spätburgunder Schwaigerner Ruthe GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/graf-neipperg-spatburgunder-schwaigerner-ruthe-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:37:19.000Z
Gipskeuper (gypsum marl). Both Graf Neipperg wines tasted today (one from 2024 and this one from 2023) show ripe fruit and wood upfront. Quite concentrated, with red cherry and cherry cola. Licorice and anise seed add intrigue on the palate to what is otherwise a fruit and wood expression at this stage.

| Producer       | Graf Neipperg      |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder      |
| Vineyard       | Schwaigerner Ruthe |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Württemberg        |
| Vintage        | 2023               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★++              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dautel, Spätburgunder Bönnigheimer Schupen GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dautel-spatburgunder-bonnigheimer-schupen-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:34:05.000Z
Gipskeuper (gypsum marl). Ripe, sweet black cherry nose with roasted coffee or chestnut notes. Pungent in the best way possible. Concentrated black cherry and espresso linger on the finish.

| Producer       | Dautel               |
| -------------- | -------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder        |
| Vineyard       | Bönnigheimer Schupen |
| Classification | GG                   |
| Region         | Württemberg          |
| Vintage        | 2023                 |
| Format         | 750 ml               |
| Tasted         | August 2026          |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars          |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dautel, Spätburgunder Oberstenfelder Forstberg GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dautel-spatburgunder-oberstenfelder-forstberg-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:24:16.000Z
Colored marl. Terrific, ripe intensity of black cherry and cherry cola on the nose. Wonderful roasted chestnut character here. Cherry liqueur and bittersweet chocolate linger on the palate. Top level.

| Producer       | Dautel                   |
| -------------- | ------------------------ |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder            |
| Vineyard       | Oberstenfelder Forstberg |
| Classification | GG                       |
| Region         | Württemberg              |
| Vintage        | 2023                     |
| Format         | 750 ml                   |
| Tasted         | August 2026              |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Beurer, Spätburgunder Stettener Mönchberg Öde Halde GG 2023
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/beurer-spatburgunder-stettener-monchberg-ode-halde-gg-2023/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:18:12.000Z
Colored marl. Ripe and sweet red cherry nose. There's a terrific concentration of fruit with cherry cola and an unusual sake aroma. Concentrated sweet red cherry fruit continues on the palate. Great intensity while keeping its Pinot identity.

| Producer       | Beurer                        |
| -------------- | ----------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder                 |
| Vineyard       | Stettener Mönchberg Öde Halde |
| Classification | GG                            |
| Region         | Württemberg                   |
| Vintage        | 2023                          |
| Format         | 750 ml                        |
| Tasted         | August 2026                   |
| Score          | ★★★++                         |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Staatsweingut Weinsberg, Spätburgunder Gundelsheimer Himmelreich GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/staatsweingut-weinsberg-spatburgunder-gundelsheimer-himmelreich-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:09:07.000Z
Muschelkalk (shell limestone). Terrifically fragrant Pinot nose. Open-knit and floral, with crushed flowers and herbs over ripe red cherry fruit. Baking spice and vanilla of oak asserts itself on the palate, but there's plenty of ripe, delicious fruit here to support the wood.

| Producer       | Staatsweingut Weinsberg   |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder             |
| Vineyard       | Gundelsheimer Himmelreich |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Württemberg               |
| Vintage        | 2024                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★++                     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Graf Neipperg, Spätburgunder Neipperger Schlossberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/graf-neipperg-spatburgunder-neipperger-schlossberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T09:01:42.000Z
Gipskeuper. Ripe, red cherry nose with the warmth of vanilla coming through. Quite a lot of volume, both on the nose and palate, driven by ripe red fruit and oak at this stage. Crushed dried flowers, red cherries, and wood linger on the finish.

| Producer       | Graf Neipperg          |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Neipperger Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Württemberg            |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★+                   |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Wöhrwag, Spätburgunder Stuttgarter Herzogenberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/wohrwag-spatburgunder-stuttgarter-herzogenberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T08:54:55.000Z
Listed as Stuttgart in the VDP.Vorpremiere Katalog, Untertürkheim on the VDP.Weinberg.online website. Gipkeuper (gypsum marl). Fragrant with a pure, candied cherry nose. Cherry pit and walnut skin. The palate is intense and long, hinting at cassis. Warmth of vanilla indicates at least a small percentage of new wood. Wonderful Pinot Noir.

| Producer       | Wöhrwag                  |
| -------------- | ------------------------ |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder            |
| Vineyard       | Stuttgarter Herzogenberg |
| Classification | GG                       |
| Region         | Württemberg              |
| Vintage        | 2024                     |
| Format         | 750 ml                   |
| Tasted         | August 2026              |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars              |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Aldinger, Spätburgunder Untertürkheimer Gips Marienglas GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/aldinger-spatburgunder-unterturkheimer-gips-marienglas-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T08:47:56.000Z
Gipskeuper (gypsum marl). A more pungent, exotic, and reductive nose than the Lämmler Kaiser. Campfire meets forest floor. Long and intense palate impression with more black cherry than red. Earthy, black truffle-laden finish. Superb.

| Producer       | Aldinger                        |
| -------------- | ------------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder                   |
| Vineyard       | Untertürkheimer Gips Marienglas |
| Classification | GG                              |
| Region         | Württemberg                     |
| Vintage        | 2024                            |
| Format         | 750 ml                          |
| Tasted         | August 2026                     |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Aldinger, Spätburgunder Fellbacher Lämmler Kaiser GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/aldinger-spatburgunder-fellbacher-lammler-kaiser-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-23T08:41:49.000Z
The "Kaiser" vineyard plot is approximately 0.3 hectares in size, lies directly below the forest, and is therefore somewhat cooler and more exposed to the wind. For Aldinger, this area contains the best Pinot Noir parcels at Lämmler. Deep and intense cherry nose. Cherry pit and almond kernel with pretty floral aromas. Juicy and intense palate impression with long and lingering cherry on the finish.

| Producer       | Aldinger                  |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder             |
| Vineyard       | Fellbacher Lämmler Kaiser |
| Classification | GG                        |
| Region         | Württemberg               |
| Vintage        | 2024                      |
| Format         | 750 ml                    |
| Tasted         | August 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★++                     |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Rainer Schnaitmann, Spätburgunder Fellbacher Lämmler GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/rainer-schnaittmann-spatburgunder-fellbacher-lammler-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-30T18:47:06.000Z
**Disclosure:** I import and sell this wine. See my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/).

Gypsum, sandstone, marl. The VDP.Grosse Lage is between 320 and 420 meters asl. Candied strawberry nose, crushed dried flowers, and the warmth of vanilla. A light and fresh palate impression with a long and lingering herbal, floral aftertaste. Lots of pleasure here.

| Producer       | Schnaitmann        |
| -------------- | ------------------ |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder      |
| Vineyard       | Fellbacher Lämmler |
| Classification | GG                 |
| Region         | Württemberg        |
| Vintage        | 2024               |
| Format         | 750 ml             |
| Tasted         | August 2026        |
| Score          | ★★★+               |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Franz Keller, Spätburgunder Achkarrener Schlossberg GG 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/franz-keller-spatburgunder-achkarrener-schlossberg-gg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-08-22T19:08:42.000Z
These Baden Schlossberg 2020s have been some of the top-performing Pinots today. These are serious and showy in the best possible sense. Once again, a pungent, Vosne-Romanée-like nose, dare I say Richebourg-esque, with really no obvious oak, just a pungency of earth and herbs mingled with ripe black cherry fruit. The flavors continue to the palate in near-perfect grand cru proportions. What a wine.

| Producer       | Franz Keller            |
| -------------- | ----------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder           |
| Vineyard       | Achkarrener Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                      |
| Region         | Baden                   |
| Vintage        | 2020                    |
| Format         | 750 ml                  |
| Tasted         | December 2025           |
| Score          | ★★★★★5 stars            |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Fürst, Spätburgunder Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg GG 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/furst-spatburgunder-burgstadter-centgrafenberg-gg-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-22T19:25:30.000Z
Red colored sandstone. A completely different nose than any other Riesling tasted in the last three days. First Riesling from sandstone, with aromas of wildflowers, peach skin, and a mix of green herbs. Very fragrant and distinctive. Pink grapefruit and minerals linger on the palate—wonderful length and complexity.

| Producer       | Fürst                      |
| -------------- | -------------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder              |
| Vineyard       | Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg |
| Classification | GG                         |
| Region         | Franken                    |
| Vintage        | 2024                       |
| Format         | 750 ml                     |
| Tasted         | August 2025                |
| Score          | ★★★★4 stars                |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### F.X. Pichler, Grüner Veltliner Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd 2024
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/fx-pichler-gruener-veltliner-duernsteiner-kellerberg-smaragd-2024/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T14:47:16.000Z
An infusion of peppercorns and wild green herbs overlays ripe, fragrant apple aromas on the nose. A wonderful spice on the palate, this wine is wonderfully fresh and mineral-focused.

| Producer       | F.X. Pichler           |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Grüner Veltliner       |
| Vineyard       | Dürnsteiner Kellerberg |
| Classification | Smaragd                |
| Region         | Wachau                 |
| Vintage        | 2024                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | May 2026               |
| Score          | ★★★++                  |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Bernhard Huber, Spätburgunder Hecklinger Schlossberg GG 2020
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/bernhard-huber-spatburgunder-schlossberg-gg-2020/
Last updated: 2026-08-22T18:30:49.000Z
Weathered white shell limestone. A different aromatic profile from the Bienenberg bottlings. Brighter, more red-fruited, with an herbal component. There's a warming note of alcohol on the nose, which, given the steepness and exposure of this site, perhaps shows the sun and heat of 2020\. Bright and concentrated red fruit flavor on the palate.

| Producer       | Bernhard Huber         |
| -------------- | ---------------------- |
| Grape          | Spätburgunder          |
| Vineyard       | Hecklinger Schlossberg |
| Classification | GG                     |
| Region         | Baden                  |
| Vintage        | 2020                   |
| Format         | 750 ml                 |
| Tasted         | August 2026            |
| Score          | ★★★++3 stars plus plus |

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Riesling Deidesheimer Langenmorgen G.C. 1999
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/dr-burklin-wolf-riesling-deidesheimer-langenmorgen-g-c-1999/
Last updated: 2026-08-22T19:25:45.000Z
From one of three Deidesheimer sites classified as “GC” (Grand Cru) in Bürklin-Wolf’s internal 1994 classification.\* B-W owns 0.68 hectares of the 10-hectare Langenmorgen, planted in 1976\. The soil here is red and white sandstone with sandy loam and loess deposits, usually yielding a broad and textural result. Soil, coupled with the relatively warm, lower-acid 1999 vintage, might suggest a wine with fading definition, but that was not the case when tasted in July of 2022\. Broad-shouldered, sure, but focused, with pineapple and Seville orange, concentration, and length.

| Producer       | Dr. Bürklin-Wolf          |
| -------------- | ------------------------- |
| Grape          | Riesling                  |
| Vineyard       | Deidesheimer Langenmorgen |
| Classification | G.C.                      |
| Region         | Pfalz                     |
| Vintage        | 1999                      |
| Format         | Magnum, 1.5 L             |
| Tasted         | July 2022                 |
| Score          | ★★++2 stars plus plus     |

About the label: more than 20 years ago, Bürklin-Wolf printed unique labels for the Court of Master Sommeliers, this one a 25th-anniversary bottling commemorating the organization's founding. "We had these labels printed in two or three vintages," says Micheletti. Today, the Langenmorgen is only available under the original label, with 1500 bottles produced annually. The wine is identical to the 1999 Langenmorgen issued with the standard Bürklin-Wolf label.

\*Langenmorgen was declassified to Premier Cru in the 2000s. 1999 was the last vintage for many years with a Langenmorgen “GC” before being bottled as “PC” in 2001 and returning to a GC classification in 2013 after conversion to biodynamics, bringing it in line with VDP.Grosse Lage classification.

Scored on a five-star scale, where a plus is a third of a star. How I score and what I disclose is set out in my [ethics and disclosure policy](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/ethics/). More notes are in the [review index](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reviews/), and the regional background is in [Wine in Germany](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/).
### An Introduction to Wine in Germany
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/an-introduction-to-wine-in-germany/
Last updated: 2026-09-20T12:34:49.000Z
Germany comprises 103,000 hectares of vineyards (1 hectare = 2.47 acres)—an area slightly smaller than Bordeaux and about half that of California. Crossed by the 50th parallel north, it stands as Europe's most northerly winegrowing country. Its cool climate historically favored cold-hardy white varieties along river valleys such as the Rhine, Mosel, Saar, Ruwer, Nahe, Main, and Neckar.

Today, Germany is the world's premier Riesling producer, with over 24,000 hectares across 13 distinct winegrowing regions (Weinanbaugebiete), including the Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Nahe, and Pfalz. It is also the world's third-largest producer of Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder), which reaches distinctive expression in regions like the Ahr, Baden, Pfalz, and Franken. Silvaner remains a historic specialty in Franken, though more is planted in Rheinhessen, while Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) are now ubiquitous throughout Germany's vineyards. Lemberger (Blaufränkisch), Trollinger (Schiava), and Kerner are Württemberg specialties. German wine is so much more than Riesling.

While German wine was once widely associated with sweetness, dry (trocken) wines now dominate production across nearly all regions. Only the Mosel produces more off-dry and sweet wine than dry, though Württemberg can sometimes sneakily produce good volumes of off-dry wine. Nevertheless, lightly sweet, low-alcohol Kabinett ("Kabi") remains a unique specialty, and Germany's noble sweet wines—including Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese (BA), Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA), and Eiswein—rank among the world's finest.

Many top German wines come from roughly 2,500 independent, estate-based wineries called Weingut (plural: Weingüter). In 1971, a sweeping wine law tied quality rankings solely to natural grape ripeness and non-chaptalized production (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat), largely overlooking terroir while merging historic vineyards into large collective sites known as Großlagen. In response, leading producers in the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP)—an elite association of around 200 wineries whose origins date to the 1910 natural wine auctioneers—focused on restoring the primacy of Germany's historical vineyard sites.

While the ripeness-based Prädikat system persists, particularly in cool regions like the Mosel, most quality-minded German wineries now categorize production by geographic origin. This origin-based framework mirrors Burgundy, operating on the principle that smaller, more specific geographic origins signify higher quality. The VDP hierarchy structures production from VDP.Gutswein (estate) and VDP.Ortswein (village) up to VDP.Erste Lage (single vineyard premier cru) and VDP.Grosse Lage (single vineyard grand cru), designating top dry single-vineyard bottlings as Grosses Gewächs (GG). The origin pyramid is not exclusive to the VDP, however, and most non-VDP estates follow a similar approach without the VDP branding. This origin-centric model has permanently reshaped the German wine landscape and inspired official reforms to Germany's wine law, aligning Germany with European origin-based quality standards.

Wine in Germany aims to bring together Germany's distinct winegrowing regions, key grape varieties, and historic vineyard sites into a comprehensive reference for wine enthusiasts and professionals alike. It serves as a companion to the many previous English-language works on German wine which enthusiasts, including this author, have referenced for years, including Frank Schoonmaker's The Wines of Germany, Hugh Johnson's The Story of Wine, Ian Jamieson's German Wines, Stephen Brook's The Wines of Germany, and Anne Krebiehl MW's The Wines of Germany. I read and re-read some of those books, both for personal enjoyment and to support my professional credentials and career in the wine trade. I hope you enjoy Wine in Germany as much as I've enjoyed writing it.
### Nahe Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-19T21:13:22.000Z
### Gut Hermannsberg, VDP.Weingut

Gut Hermannsberg is a 30-hectare estate between the Nahe villages of Niederhausen and Schloßböckelheim. The estate’s history dates to 1902 when it was initially built as the “Königlich-Preussische Weinbaudomäne” (Royal Prussian Wine Estate) and remained under state ownership for its first 100 years. Under private ownership, the property became the Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelhim before its acquisition in 2009 by Jens Reidel and Dr. Christine Dinse. They renamed it “Gut Hermannsberg” after the steep monopole site on the Nahe river. The new owners installed a new team, namely cellarmaster Karsten Peter, who is quickly elevating the estate’s reputation to one of the best wine producers in Germany. All 30 hectares are VDP.Grosse Lage. In addition to the monopollage Hermannsberg, there’s the outstanding Kupfergrube (copper mine), Bastei, Felsenberg, Steinberg, Rotenberg, and Rossel (a Gewann and another monopole). The Kupfergrube, by the way, did not exist during German wine's pre-war, pre-prohibition peak of popularity. It was later created by the State Domäne after clearing a steep hillside of scrub and brush. Steep, southern exposures on volcanic soils give these wines, especially Kupfergrube, an intense and smoky character. Under Karsten Peter, winemaking is low intervention, and vinifications occur in stainless steel tanks and Halbstück. I was fortunate to be invited to the estate’s Jubiläumsjahr celebration in August 2019, where an incredible vertical dating back to the 1914 vintage was opened and tasted.

Wines tasted the the “Kupfergrube Vertikale,” Gut Hermannsberg Jubiläumsjahr celebration, 30 August 2019:

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1914

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1923

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1933

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Spätlese trocken Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1949

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1958

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Auslese 1969

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Spätlese Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1979

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Niederhausen-Schloßböckelheim Riesling Beerenauslese Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 1996

Gutsverwaltung Niederhausen-Schlossböckelhim Niederhausen-Riesling Auslese Schloßböckelheim Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube 2005

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2009

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2010

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2011

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2012

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2013

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2014

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2015

Gut Hermannsberg Riesling Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube GG 2016

### Korrell, Weingut

“We are always the first in the Nahe to harvest,” says Britta Korrell, then adds, “and always the last.” It takes seven weeks to harvest all of Weingut Korrell’s 32 hectares which stretch 20 kilometers along the Nahe river, from their home village of Bosenheim (near Bad Kreuznach in the lower Nahe to Waldböckelheim in the upper Nahe. Along the way, tributaries, irregular topography, and 400 million years of tumultuous geological activity make Germany’s Nahe difficult for some to pin down. On the one hand, lower Nahe can produce fine Burgunder varieties, and its dry Rieslings can show power and texture. Prädikatswein from middle Nahe villages like Niederhausen is undoubtedly some of Germany’s finest. Then, in the upper Nahe, a Riesling trocken from Schloßböckelheim might be linear, steely, and intense. “We have the nickname’ das Probiertstub’chen’,” says Britta, “because Nahe is the tasting room of Germany.” Kreuznacher Paradies is where the winery began after WWII. Martin Korrell’s family comes from Spain, where they picked up the Lion crest on all of Karrell’s labels. Martin’s father began in the Paradies in the 1960s, growing grapes and selling mainly to private clients. Martin was still amidst his studies and had just returned from an internship in Australia in 1999 to find his father in a wheelchair after a fall. Martin, age 19, would have to take charge of the harvest. The Korrells own 9.5 hectares of the 20-hectare Paradies, a steep and prominent hill overlooking Bad Kreuznach with limestone, muschelkalk on the upper slopes, and clay in the lower section. Climate, soil, and old vines combine to make Paradies Riesling a wine of deep concentration, fine structure, and layered many times over with flavor. Paradies is Korrell’s jewel among a treasure chest of grand crus. “Riesling is the first thing for us,” says Britta. Weissburgunder and Spätburgunder are also quite good here with their lower Nahe home base. The focus is on dry wines, and unless you find yourself in a few specific areas in Germany, off-dry or sweet Prädikatsweine are made when vintage conditions allow for it. Martin is a very controlled winemaker and prefers spontaneous fermentation if it starts within the first 30 hours. It helps explain the unusually intricate complexity of the Gutswein (estate) Riesling trocken and the exceptional “von den Ersten Lagen” bottling. I love this wine because it combines three exceptional sites in Schloßböckelheim (including grand cru Felsenberg) with the famous Traiser Rotenfels into a delicate and salty whole. It says something about this wine when it stands out among grand crus like Dellchen, Kirschheck, Klamm, and Paradies, all produced side-by-side in Korrell’s cellar.

[Nahe: Exquisitely Tuned →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-exquisitely-tuned/)
### Rheingau Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-19T21:36:59.000Z
### Balthasar Ress, VDP.Weingut

Balthasar Ress is a family-owned estate founded in 1870 in the Rheingau village of Hattenheim. Stephan and Christian Ress are the fourth and fifth generations and run the estate today. Balthasar Ress was a butcher and hotelier who started selling wines to his customers with the phrase “von unserm” (from ours) over 150 years ago, and it is the name of the Gutswein Riesling and Spätburgunder today. Since its founding, an outstanding collection of vineyards have been assembled including parcels within the “fountain” vineyards of Nussbrunnen and Wisselbrunnen, Berg Schlossberg, Berg Rottland in Rüdesheim, and Assmanshausen Höllenberg. A VDP member since 1989\. Balthasar Ress became the largest certified organic wine estate in Hessen in 2019\. Plantings consist of 90% Riesling, 10% Spätburgunder focused mainly in the villages of Hattenheim and Rüdesheim. Like other VDP estates, production is organized by origin, beginning with Gutswein and Ortswein serving as introductions to the region and villages, followed by a series of single vineyards classed as Erste Lagen and Grosse Lagen by the VDP. Not to be overlooked are the Hattenheimer sites of Engelmannsberg, Schützenhaus, and the Monopollage of Schloss Reichartshausen. All 55 hectares are certified organic, a priority pursued by Christian Ress after taking over in 2010\. “I simply think it’s fundamentally wrong to produce a luxury product - and that’s what wine is - for a privileged few consumers at the expense of the general public’s natural resources,” says Christian. Stephan Sänger oversees the Balthasar Ress cellar and explains that the grape harvest is mostly by hand. “In the vineyards where machine harvesting is possible, we make sure that a selection is made beforehand by our hand pickers so that we only harvest the healthy and physiologically ripe grapes with the machine.” Fermentations are spontaneous for the single vineyards and typically inoculated for the Gutsweine and Ortsweine. The wines receive extended aging on the fine lees, which remain suspended to protect from oxidation, thereby keeping the addition of SO2 to a minimum. Gutsweine typically ages in stainless steel tanks, while single vineyards age in oak. The historic family crest with the roughly century-old maxim by Balthasar Ress holds steady: “Fein Sei Der Wein!” (Fine Be The Wine!).

[Rheingau: Historic, Venerable, Rejuvenated →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-historic-venerable-rejuvenated/)
### Rheinhessen Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T12:47:13.000Z
### Gröhl, Weingut

Johannes likes to say, “half of my heart is for Riesling, half of my heart is for Pinot Noir.” Today, the Spätburgunder is more Burgundian, lighter, and fresher, with a more nuanced use of oak. Johannes Gröhl and his sister Franziska are the 13th generation of Gröhls to grow and produce wine in Weinolsheim since 1625\. The village of Weinolsheim is a short, 10-minute drive southwest of Nierstein and the famous Roter Hang, where some of Germany’s finest vineyards cling to the steep red slope facing the Rhein. The Roter Hang is where you’ll find the majority of Gröhl’s vineyards, including the famous Riesling sites of Pettenthal, Ölberg, and an important Spätburgunder vineyard on the other side of Nierstein, Hölle. Vinum magazine has nominated Weingut Gröhl for their 2022 Winemaker of the Year award, and it’s easy to see why. While the quality and fame of the vineyards are the first things to grab your attention at this estate, Weingut Gröhl stands out as an innovative and modernizing producer driven by a new generation of talent and energy. The vineyards concentrate on the Nierstein Roter Hang sites of Pettenthal, Ölberg, and Hölle, and south of Nierstein in Oppenheim with Sackträger and Herrenberg. Their 25 hectares include vineyards in Dalheim and Weinolsheim, meaning Johannes Gröhl has an assortment of microclimates and soils to produce a diverse range of wines. Despite the estate’s long history, these 25 hectares were assembled in short order by the parents of Johannes and Franziska, Eckehart and Angela. Because of their many siblings, they had just 2.5 hectares when they took over in 1994\. Under their stewardship, Weingut Gröhl slowly grew, and was better known as a source of Spätburgunder before gaining more Riesling sites on the Roter Hang. Johannes likes to say, “half of my heart is for Riesling, half of my heart is for Pinot Noir.” The winery produces 30% red wine today. Perhaps the biggest change instituted by the young siblings is the conversion to organic farming and a renewed dedication to old clonal material and massal selection for replanting. Organic, for Johannes Gröhl, is the only way forward in a changing climate, and he believes cuttings from old plants (sometimes 100 years old) give their vines resistance to vine maladies and diseases. Another thing to note is the stylistic change in the wines, which has slowly taken hold since Johannes started working in the cellar alongside his father in 2018\. “You could say the Pinots were more Germanic,” says Johannes of the Pinots in the past. Today, the Spätburgunder is more Burgundian, lighter, and fresher, with a more nuanced use of oak and around 20-30% whole clusters included in the fermentation. And the Rieslings are superbly made with a balance of delicacy, concentrated firmness, and structure.

### Kai Schätzel, VDP.Weingut

Visiting Kai Schätzel for the first time at his winery in Nierstein, it didn’t take long to realize that this was my kind of producer. Uncompromising and crystal-clear in his approach, Schätzel reminded me of some of my favorite winemakers, like Rudi Pichler in Austria’s Wachau or Andreas Nicolussi-Leck at Stroblhof in Italy’s Südtirol. Questions are answered directly, and without hesitation, philosophies are well-considered and communicated efficiently, and the evolution of ideas is always possible but only after deep introspection. While sharing definiteness of purpose, where Kai Schätzel veers apart from someone like Rudi Pichler is in the cellar. Pichler knows his approach is the best for his wines, and so does Schätzel. Both would be right, but the resulting wine styles couldn’t be more different. Kai Schätzel was born in 1979 and took over in 2007\. Since then, change has come rapidly to this winery which can trace its founding back to 1350, making it one of the oldest family-owned wine estates in Rheinhessen. Despite having incredible vineyard holdings on the Roter Hang, including the grand crus of Pettenthal, Hipping, and Ölberg, previous generations of Schätzel were not so interested in getting maximum quality from these sites. Schätzel shifted the farming towards organic and later biodynamic and implemented a unique canopy management regime to mitigate the effects of climate change and delay sugar accumulation. Vineyards are dry-farmed, and the vines looked stressed when visiting there on a very hot and dry August day in 2022\. Still, Schätzel remains committed to dry-farming, citing environmental concerns and the intensity of character he can achieve from his low-yielding old vines on the Roter Hang. Kai Schätzel has developed a unique style in the cellar, producing wines with less alcohol, more salty minerality, and a cutting and distinctive flavor profile. A VDP member since 2015, his dry Grosses Gewächs have received high critical praise, but 35% of the production is dedicated to featherweight and barely sweet, Kabinetts from outstanding parcels. He prefers a reductive winemaking approach, adding minimal sulfur at bottling for wines like Kabinett and leaving it out altogether for some dry wines, including a sulfur-free Pettental GG, which is simply a jaw-dropper of a great dry German Riesling. His 800-year-old cellar lies below the streets of Nierstein, and following a brief maceration on skins, the wines ferment spontaneously in Stück and Halbstück barrels. A new modern cellar was under construction in August 2022, and in true Kai Schätzel form, the minimalist concrete design is intended to serve many generations of Schätzel wines into the future.

### Thörle, Weingut

Brothers Johannes and Christoph Thörle have been steadily transforming their multigenerational estate since taking over in 2006 to become one of Rheinhessen’s leading wine producers. Weingut Thörle is today certified organic and practices biodynamics. Thörle achieves sensational ratings from critics for its laser-focused dry Rieslings and Spätburgunder, which rank among Germany’s best. The village of Saulheim lies in Rheinhessen’s northern interior, within the Nierstein district, one of Rheinhessen’s three Bereiche. Saulheim is about a 20-minute drive west of the Rheinfront with its famous red slope (the Roter Hang). Saulheim is where brothers Johannes and Christoph Thörle have been steadily transforming their multigenerational estate since taking over in 2006 into one of Rheinhessen’s leading wine producers. The previous generation, Rudolf and Uta Thörle, recognized the potential of Saulheim’s limestone soils and began to plant more Riesling and Pinot Noir in the hills around Saulheim. With their sons taking the mantle, Weingut Thörle is today certified organic and practicing biodynamic. Amid Thörle’s 28 hectares are three vineyards that would qualify as grand cru among Germany’s wine elite. These are Saulheimer’s Schlossberg, Probstey, and Hölle. Schlossberg is the coolest of the three, with deep clay and limestone marl soils, and gives the most elegant Riesling of the estate. Probstey is south-facing with exposed limestone at the vineyard’s heart. Voluminous complex Riesling and Silvaner are the results of Probstey’s sun and soil. Hölle, as the name suggests, warms up quickly and is wind-protected. The ground of Hölle is calcareous clay loam giving opulent Riesling and Spätburgunder while retaining precise acidity and an intense mineral impression. Johannes Thörle insists upon spontaneous fermentation and vinification in stainless steel tanks and aging in oak ranging from traditional large Stückfass to tonneau to Burgundian pièce, depending on the wine. Spätburgunder is fully destemmed, and after the Gutswein, most of the reds see a small percentage of new oak. While Riesling and Spätburgunder are the main varieties at Weingut Thörle, Silvaner, Sauvignon Blanc, and Burgundian varieties are all excellent here. For all the attention (and sensational ratings from critics like Stuart Pigott) the Thörle Rieslings and Pinots have gotten, Silvaner should not be overlooked here; the Probstey Silvaner is incredibly salty and smoky. There’s also an impressive Chardonnay reserve, planted in 1993, shortly after the variety was first permitted in Rheinhessen.

### Wagner-Stempel, VDP.Weingut

Rheinhessen | Siefersheim | 18 hectares | Organic

So many of Rheinhessen's top GGs come from the red soils of the Roter Hang and the limestone plateau of the interior that volcanic Rhyolite might seem downright exotic for Germany's largest wine-growing region. In fact, nothing in the so-called Rheinhessische Schweiz resembles the rest of the region or anywhere else in Germany, for that matter. To take it all in, Daniel Wagner's right-hand man, cellar master, and trained chef, Oliver Müller, took us to the top of the Heerkretz, where it could have just as easily been Mt Etna. Here, at 280 meters, one of the highest points in Rheinhessen, shrubs grow close to the ground amid porous, craggy rock, and the trees do not grow much larger.

These are the conditions under which Riesling and Spätburgunder grow in this western part of Rheinhessen, which had remained unknown until Wagner took over his family's winery in 1992\. Siefersheim is so far west, in fact, that after a hard day's work, the healing waters of Nahe's Bad Kreuznach are just a 15-minute drive (7 minutes if Daniel's driving). The proximity of the old Roman spa town is worth keeping in mind when tasting the wines. Siefersheim is the fridge of the Rheinhessen, and volcanic porphyry is the stuff of Dönnhoff and the Middle Nahe. Several critics have noted that the racy minerality in Wagner-Stempel's wines resembles that of Oberhausen.

To be even more specific, Heerkretz comprises weathered Rhyolite, which is porphyry with a high proportion of quartz. This stony, acidic, and nutrient-poor soil, combined with the cool climate, produces small grapes with naturally low yields, cool, mineral wines of exacting precision. Höllberg, in contrast, is a sheltered, warmer site, giving slightly more powerful but no less mineral-driven old-vine Riesling. The winemaking is as traditional as it comes, with 12-48 hrs of skin maceration, depending on the vintage, and spontaneous fermentations and aging in inox or traditional oak, depending on the wine. There's also Riesling Schalchenberg in Bingen, with its scarlet-red soil rich in iron oxide. VDP.Orstwein Riesling Porphyr from younger vines in Heerkretz and Höllberg. VDP member since 2004.

[Rheinhessen: Red Slopes, Limestone Hills →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-red-slopes-limestone-hills/)
### Ahr Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T15:45:59.000Z
### Meyer-Näkel, VDP.Weingut

Walporzheim-Ahrtal | Dernau | 23-hectares | Certified organic

Werner Näkel was among the first of a handful of Winzer to make their way to Burgundy in the early 1980s, bringing home a very different vision for Ahr Pinot Noir than previous generations. Werner befriended Henri Jayer of Vosne-Romanée, who instilled in him a philosophy of "meticulous vineyard presence," including green-harvesting, as well as his cellar practices of 100% destemming, and, of particular consequence for Werner, the use of the small 228-liter traditional Burgundy barrel known as a pièce.

The Ahr's slate is uniquely different than Burgundy's marl-limestone, nor was the region set up for quality in the way it had been for centuries in the Côte-d'Or. In the early 1980s, the Ahr vineyards were geared toward tourism, producing light, sweet, pale-colored red wines for the Strauswirtschaften. Nor was winemaking a common path of study for young Germans at the time. While Paula Meyer and Willibald Näkel formed the estate in 1950, Werner trained as a high school teacher specializing in mathematics and sports.

Werner Näkel took over the estate in 1982 and slowly adapted Jayer's methods to the Ahr, often by trial and error. Jayer employed 100% new oak for his deeply concentrated Cros-Parantoux, but the high-yielding fruit typical for the Ahr in those days couldn't swallow the same treatment. Werner's early wines were criticized for being over-oaked. Jayer also eschewed filtration, but a cloudy, unfiltered wine in the early 1980s would have no chance of receiving an AP number from the authorities. Werner opted for a very light and gentle filtration instead.

Over time, Werner and his daughters, Meike and Dörte, implemented more of Jayer's techniques, including pre-fermentation "cold soak." Werner passed away in September 2025, but his legacy lives on as the architect of modern German red wine. The sisters maintain the estate's signature style—balancing the power of the Ahr's volcanic and slate soils with Burgundian finesse. I asked Meike how much of the Jayer influence has carried over to their stewardship. Here's the current approach:

Their winery and traditional tavern, Hofgarten, is located in the village of Dernau, and the 20-hectare collection of vineyard sites is now considered a benchmark for the region. Their VDP.Grosse Lage holdings include Pfarrwingert in Dernau, Kräuterberg in Walporzheim, Silberberg and Rosenthal in Ahrweil, Sonnenberg and Schieferlay in Bad Neuenahr, and Trotzenberg in Marienthal. Following the devastating Ahr Valley floods of 2021, the family underwent a monumental rebuilding process.

[Ahr: Pinot from Sun and Slate →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-pinot-from-sun-and-slate/)
### Baden Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T15:50:08.000Z
### Burg Ravensburg, VDP.Weingut

Vines have been cultivated at Burg Ravensburg in the village of Sulzfeld since 1251 making it one of the oldest vineyards in the world. The Ravensburg is the former ancestral seat of the baron Göler von Ravensburg and is one of the most important surviving castles in the Kraichgau. The 770-year-old winery was founded in the 13th century by the Cistercian monks of Maulbronn Monastery, who came from Burgundy. In 2012, after coming under the same ownership as Weingut Heitlinger in nearby Tiefenbach, the sister estates jointly became one of Germany’s most extensive biodynamic farming operations. The two VDP estates are only ten kilometers apart, and Managing Director Claus Burmeister oversees both properties. The vineyards cover 38 hectares surrounding the hilltop castle in Sulzfeld and include the VDP.Erste Lage site Lerchenberg, and three VDP.Grosse Lagen: Dicker Franz, Husarenkappe, and Löchle, all of which are monopoles of Burg Ravensburg. The vineyards mainly consist of Gipskeuper (gypsum marl with layers of sandstone), which favors Riesling and Lemberger (here, the term Blaufränkisch is preferred), with supplemental plantings of Burgundian varieties. Like Heitlinger, Burg Ravensburg has been biodynamic since 2014\. All plots are farmed individually with an average yield of 55 hl/ha. Grape harvest is by hand. All wines are vinified in the Heitlinger cellars in Tiefenbach, newly built in 2012\. Burmeister practices extended skin maceration for Riesling to achieve a depth of aroma and extract as much flavor as possible before fermentation. The technique gives the wines remarkable depth, characteristic structure, and long aging potential. The modern Heitlinger cellar utilizes pneumatic presses, and gravity is preferred over pumps to transport the grapes, must, and wine. The fermentation of Grosses Gewächse is spontaneous, and vinification and maturing occur in a combination of stainless steel tanks, large wooden barrels, and barriques. About 300,000 bottles annually. VDP member since 2012.

### Heitlinger, VDP.Weingut

Vines have been cultivated at Burg Ravensburg in the village of Sulzfeld since 1251 making it one of the oldest vineyards in the world. The Ravensburg is the former ancestral seat of the baron Göler von Ravensburg and is one of the most important surviving castles in the Kraichgau. The 770-year-old winery was founded in the 13th century by the Cistercian monks of Maulbronn Monastery, who came from Burgundy. In 2012, after coming under the same ownership as Weingut Heitlinger in nearby Tiefenbach, the sister estates jointly became one of Germany’s most extensive biodynamic farming operations. The two VDP estates are only ten kilometers apart, and Managing Director Claus Burmeister oversees both properties. The vineyards cover 38 hectares surrounding the hilltop castle in Sulzfeld and include the VDP.Erste Lage site Lerchenberg, and three VDP.Grosse Lagen: Dicker Franz, Husarenkappe, and Löchle, all of which are monopoles of Burg Ravensburg. The vineyards mainly consist of Gipskeuper (gypsum marl with layers of sandstone), which favors Riesling and Lemberger (here, the term Blaufränkisch is preferred), with supplemental plantings of Burgundian varieties. Like Heitlinger, Burg Ravensburg has been biodynamic since 2014\. All plots are farmed individually with an average yield of 55 hl/ha. Grape harvest is by hand. All wines are vinified in the Heitlinger cellars in Tiefenbach, newly built in 2012\. Burmeister practices extended skin maceration for Riesling to achieve a depth of aroma and extract as much flavor as possible before fermentation. The technique gives the wines remarkable depth, characteristic structure, and long aging potential. The modern Heitlinger cellar utilizes pneumatic presses, and gravity is preferred over pumps to transport the grapes, must, and wine. The fermentation of Grosses Gewächse is spontaneous, and vinification and maturing occur in a combination of stainless steel tanks, large wooden barrels, and barriques. About 300,000 bottles annually. VDP member since 2012.

### Julius Zotz, Weingut

Located in Heitersheim in the Bereich of Markgräflerland. Gutedel and Spätburgunder are the specialties. Founded in 1865 by Karl Zotz in the former Malteser castle. The winery where it stands today was built next to the castle and is currently run by the fourth and fifth generations. Martin and Michael, sons of Julian Zotz. One of the largest family wineries in Germany with 95 hectares. The series of Gutedel produced in various styles and from multiple sites is one of Zotz’s strengths. “Chasslie” is a Gutedel style practiced by four producers in Markgräflerland and requires a minimum of six months on the lees and malolactic fermentation. Their best wines are produced from the Römerberg and Maltesergarten; the Spätburgunder Römerberg Terrassen is not to be missed. Hohlgässle is the best parcel of the Maltesergarten.

[Baden: Greetings from the Kraichgau →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-greetings-from-the-kraichgau/)
### German Grape Varieties Red
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-grape-varieties-red/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T16:21:31.000Z
### Frühburgunder (Pinot Noir Précoce)

Frühburgunder or Pinot Noir Précoce (aka Pinot Madeleine) is an early ripening mutation of Pinot Noir. The German word Früh and the French word Précoce mean the same thing: early, and the variety ripens around two weeks before Pinot Noir. Its exact place of origin is unknown; however, judging by the number of French synonyms dating to the late 17th century, somewhere in Burgundy seems most likely. Once widespread in Germany in the early 19th century, Frühburgunder (a low-yielding variety) declined to about 15 hectares in the 1960s. It now represents 228 hectares (2021) in Germany, the highest concentration of which is in Rheinhessen, Pfalz, and most notably in the Ahr, with 33 hectares planted. In the Ahr, Frühburgunder is a permitted varietal for GG status among its seven VDP members. Stuart Pigott’s Wein Spricht Deutsch devotes a sidebar to the variety within the chapter dedicated to the Ahr and describes Frühburgunder with words like smooth, sensuous, and seductive, which I largely agree with. Typical of the variety is an expressive nose of black fruits, florals, and spice with juicy acidity and a softer palate impression than most Pinot Noir. The best examples of Frühburgunder I’ve tasted have come mainly from the Ahr, Rheinhessen, and Franken, where growers cultivate a unique Frühburgunder clone.

### Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier)

Germany’s Schwarzriesling is unrelated to Riesling and is, In fact, an early ripening mutation of Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), and is best known as Champagne’s Pinot Meunier. Its other German synonym, Müllerrebe, is a better translation though I’ve yet to see it printed on a wine label. The German “Müller” and the French “Meunier” have the same meaning: miller. This is because the leaves of Schwarzriesling/Müllerrebe/Pinot Meunier feature a fuzzy underside, likened to a dusting of flour. Deep in color, Schwarzriesling tends to produce a fruitier wine of higher acidity than Pinot Noir or Chardonnay, making it ideal for blending in Champagne and Sekt production. It is an especially important variety in Württemberg as it buds later, ripens earlier than Pinot Noir, and is resilient to frost. As a standalone wine, I often encounter wines labeled Schwarzriesling in Württemberg, but I’ve also tasted examples from Baden, Franken, and Rheinhessen.

### Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

I’ve been saying it for a while now, and I’m more convinced than ever that German Pinot Noir (aka Spätburgunder) should be on everyone's radar. It’s one thing to taste a smoky and hedonistic Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder from the Ahr or a full-bodied and deeply-fruited Friedrich Becker from the southern Pfalz. It’s another thing to taste a nuanced and filigreed whole-cluster fermented Paul Fürst Pinot from Franken or the stellar and intellectual Spätburgunders from Dr. Simone Adams in Rheinhessen’s Ingelheim. Germany is the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir, with 11,784 hectares planted (11% of Germany’s vineyard area in 2022), no doubt aided by the changing climate. The late (spät) ripening Pinot Noir (burgunder) arrived in 884 at Bodensee in southern Baden, brought to the region from Burgundy by emperor Charles the Fat. That’s plenty of time for the mutation-prone Pinot Noir to develop into a family of clones specific to Germany. The so-called “standard” Spätburgunder clones were selected when high yields and high-must weights mattered most. Then there are the more recent Geisenheim and French “Dijon” clones chosen for quality, though not always best for certain climates like Baden's Kaiserstuhl. Clones aside, top-quality German Spätburgunder comes from ambitious producers and a vast range of soil types making Germany one of the most diverse Pinot Noir-producing places on the planet. Bernhard Huber from Baden and some of the leading Pinot estates in the Pfalz, like Dr. Wehrheim and the outstanding Weingut Knipser, produce Spätburgunder from limestone and clay, while Dr. Heger’s Pinots come from the volcanic soils of Baden’s famous Kaiserstuhl. Franken’s leading estates grow Pinot on steep sandstone terraces, and for something entirely original, Pinot is grown on slate soils in the Rheingau’s Assmannshausen and the best sites of the Ahr. Whatever past perceptions may have been, Germany’s Spätburgunder of today is nuanced, sophisticated, and highly expressive of its soils, regions, and individual terroirs. Still unconvinced? The best wine I tasted in 2022, from any variety or place, was Weingut Franz Keller Spätburgunder Achkarren Schlossberg GG Baden 2020\. I can still taste it—a stunning Spätburgunder beauty that I cannot wait to taste again.
### German Grape Varieties White
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-grape-varieties-white/
Last updated: 2026-08-20T16:32:29.000Z
### Bacchus

Bacchus is a Silvaner x Riesling cross with Müller-Thurgau (Riesling x Madeleine Royale). It was developed by Peter Morio at the Geilweilerhof Institute in the Pfalz in 1933 and released for general cultivation in 1972\. Bacchus is named after the Roman god of wine (Dionysus in Greece). It ripens early and is a significant varietal in the UK and the coolest climates in Germany. Franken and England have found success with the grape. Aromatic, similar to Sauvignon Blanc for some tasters, definitely exuberant.

### Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris)

Grauburgunder is the German name for Pinot Gris and—similar to the richly textured Pinot Gris found in Alsace—Germany's previous generation of producers focused on the riper side of the variety, often with residual sugar. This version is what Germans called Ruländer. More than just a synonym, Ruländer today denotes a more decadent and richer style of Pinot Gris, while wines labeled Grauburgunder tend to convey a dry and more modern style. With 7,100 hectares planted, Grauburgunder is 7% of Germany's total vineyard area. Grauburgunder performs well on Lößterrassen (loess terraces), Kalkboden (calcareous), and stony soils. Grauburgunder Gutswein (regional wines) is typically vinified in stainless steel, while examples from the upper tiers of the origin pyramid may see oak barrels. The Rheinhessen and Pfalz grow the most Grauburgunder, and the variety is popular with German consumers.

### Riesling

Riesling is Germany’s flagship grape variety covering 23% of its vineyard area with 24,000 hectares planted across all thirteen of Germany’s wine regions. Germany is the world's largest Riesling vineyard, followed by 2nd place Romaina and 3rd place United States. Riesling’s origin is unknown, likely a natural crossing of Weißer Heunisch x Vitis sylvestris or Weißer Heunisch x (Vitis sylvestris x traminer). Its name is another puzzle, possibly a derivation of reissen (originally to split, perhaps concerning a \[vine\] cutting?) or relating to rieselnd (meaning trickling). It was first recorded in 1435 as Riesslingen from an invoice for a Count in Rüsselheim, Rheingau, Germany. Riesling has many synonyms, including Klingelberger in Ortenau, Baden. The Riesling from the Rhein has nothing to do with Welschriesling or the red variety Schwarzriesling. Riesling represents 80% of Rheingau’s vineyard area, with 2,500 ha. Pfalz grows the most Riesling in Germany with 5,900 ha, followed by 5,400 ha in Mosel and 4,700 ha in Württemberg. Riesling is a slow-ripening variety, preferring cool climates and poor soils. Depending on its location, soil, and microclimate, it produces very differently nuanced wines. Riesling’s defining element is its fruity acidity, and it is made at all quality levels and in styles ranging from bone dry to lusciously sweet. Riesling is capable of long aging, developing complexity for decades in bottle, and is a superb partner to a wide range of cuisine.

### Sauvignon Blanc

Of the 130,000 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide, just 1,300 grow in Germany. Even that seems like a lot if you’re looking at the German wine landscape from abroad. Who’s drinking all this German Sauvignon Blanc anyway? The Germans, natürlich! I can only recall recently seeing Von Winning’s Sauvignon Blanc II from the Pfalz on any US shelf. Still, many German wine drinkers love Sauvignon Blanc’s fresh and green character, and consumers can find quality examples in Pfalz, Baden, Rheinhessen, and Nahe. Sauvignon Blanc has a long history in Baden’s Durbach (Ortenau). Weingut Graf Wolff Metternich claims it was first planted there in 1830 with cuttings from Château d’Yquem. Specialist producers like Weingut Genheimer Kiltz in the Nahe are pushing German Sauvignon Blanc to its peak of quality, and many leading estates now include it in their range.

### Scheurebe

Scheurebe is a crossing of Riesling and Bukettraube. Whenever I think of Dr. Georg Scheu's creation, I’ll probably always think first of Müller-Catoir’s Scheurebe (the dry, Haardt bottling). Scheu was head of the Landesanstalt für Rebenzüchtung (Institute for Vine Breeding) in Alzey, Rheinhessen, when he successfully crossed Riesling with Bukettraube to create Sämling 88 in 1916\. Scheu numbered all his young plants, and this crossing was “Sämling 88” (Seedling 88), the preferred synonym in Austria. The variety was later named after Scheu. From Oz Clarke’s Grapes and Wines: “According to the German grape-breeder Helmut Becker, Scheu's purpose was to create a superior version of Silvaner, with more aroma and greater resistance to frost damage and chlorosis.” Müller-Catoir’s was probably the first Scheurebe I ever encountered and continues to be my reference for this grape variety: highly aromatic, smelling of blackcurrant and grapefruit, dry with a pleasant phenolic bitterness. There are 1,417 hectares planted in Germany, mainly found in the Rheinhessen, Pfalz, and Nahe.

### Silvaner

AKA Grüner Silvaner or Grüner Sylvaner in Germany is an old variety, most likely a spontaneous crossing from more than 500 years ago. Savagnin and Österreichisch Weiss are the parents, and Österreichisch is yet another synonym for Silvaner. Around 5,000 hectares of Silvaner are planted in Germany, making it the 5th most planted variety there. Rheinhessen alone has 2,371 hectares of Silvaner planted, which has a long history with the grape. There are 1,406 hectares of Silvaner planted in Franken, where it can be particularly expressive when grown on that region's sandstone, shell-limestone, and marl soils. The greenish hue of Silvaner's skin and glints of green in the finished wine might explain why the southern Rheinhessen sometimes uses the old name Grüner Sylvaner, but in modern times, some of Rheinhessen's star producers have been emphasizing the "greener" side of the variety, with Silvaner's attractive herbal and even grassy notes. Silvaner's Austrian origins, medium/medium+ acidity, and sometimes the green character have fooled tasters (me included) drawing comparisons to Grüner Veltliner, but it is its own variety and almost always vinified dry with sweet dessert styles rarely produced and medium-sweet styles rarely encountered. In Franken, you will encounter other Silvaners besides the workhorse Grüner Silvaner. As explained by Philipp Luckert, Blauer Silvaner is more rustic (Google a picture of the grapes and you will see its blue skin). Roter Silvaner is rare, and has an aromatic lychee character. Gelber Silvaner, according to Luckert, is the highest quality, and in Luckert's wines, shows more ripe and textured fruit when compared to the other colors.

### Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc)

Weissburgunder (aka Pinot Blanc \[FR\] or Pinot Bianco \[IT\]) is widely planted in Germany and thrives in areas where the climate is perhaps too warm for Riesling. There are 1,600 hectares of Weissburgunder in Baden, Germany’s only region in climate zone 2, followed by 1,500 hectares in the Rheinhessen and 1,350 hectares in the Pfalz. An additional 1,297 hectares can be found elsewhere in Germany, bringing the total to 5,747\. With lower acidity than Riesling, Weissburgunder can still be a refreshing wine, especially when vinified in stainless steel tanks which it often is. Oaked versions (both small and large barrels) can begin to resemble Burgundy with a pale straw color and notes of toast, nuts, and lees. Pinot Blanc is a mutation of Pinot Noir and has existed since the 14th century.
### Württemberg Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:04:37.000Z
### Weingut

[Württemberg: Oh, those industrious Swabians! →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-oh-those-industrious-swabians/)
### Sachsen Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:04:56.000Z
### Weingut

[Sachsen: Beauty Awakened →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-beauty-awakened/)
### Saale-Unstrut Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:06:57.000Z
### Weingut

[Saale-Unstrut: Viticulture on the Edge →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-viticulture-on-the-edge/)
### Mittelrhein Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:07:19.000Z
### Tonu Jost, VDP. Weingut

[Mittelrhein: Romance on the Rhine →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-romance-on-the-rhine/)
### Hessische Bergstraße Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:07:35.000Z
### Griesel & Compagnie, Sekthaus

### Simon-Bürkle, Weingut

[Hessische Bergstraße: The Spring Garden →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-the-spring-garden/)
### German Wine References
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-references/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:07:55.000Z
### Downloads

[2025 Draft Bill to introduce a nationwide system of vineyard classification Translated \[English\] →](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rKvYhavCwy06zmFzXDiaNsu6vyRYyTwT/view?usp=drive%5Flink&ref=jessebeckerms.com)

[1971 Wein-Gesetz (Bundesgesetzblatt) Fifth German Wine Law Original Version Translated \[English\] →](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1%5FDDXTOf%5FEqb9Agzr6katXKUIUIutDeVM/view?usp=drive%5Flink&ref=jessebeckerms.com)
### Franken Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-producers/
Last updated: 2026-08-21T15:08:35.000Z
### Hans Wirshing, VDP.Weingut

[Franken: Silvaner's Heimatland →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-silvaners-heimatland/)
### German Vintages
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-vintages/
Last updated: 2026-08-30T20:52:14.000Z
### 2024

2024 saw record-breaking March temperatures in Germany, pushing budbreak two to four weeks ahead of normal. The ensuing April frosts and severe mildew pressure caused significant damage in some areas, resulting in a harvest volume 10% below average. The wines generally lean towards lighter, fresher profiles, with Riesling and Pinot Noir showing high acidity and mineral notes, along with moderate alcohol levels. In the east, Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut were hard hit, with losses of 70-80% of their crops. The Mosel experienced its smallest harvest in 50 years, while the Pfalz and Rheinhessen largely escaped the worst of the April frosts. The Ahr suffered a loss of over 64%, though the Pinot Noirs remain refined and elegant. Franken and parts of Baden also experienced heavy losses, though Silvaner is remarkably fine.

### 2023

The 2023 vintage was Germany's warmest year on record and yet yielded pure and balanced wines with sleek and mineral Rieslings and ripe and intense Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, and Silvaners. Ripe extract is a defining feature of the vintage, contributing suppleness to even the higher acid levels of Saar and Ruwer. A wet August initially plagued the vineyards near harvest, with rot and intense disease pressure, but a warm, dry September "saved" the vintage. A fast-paced harvest that required ruthless selection to ensure only the healthiest fruit reached the cellar. Botrytis arrived in the Mosel, requiring sorting during picking and on the sorting table. Ultimately, 2023 is a vintage where diligent, proactive viticulture turned a challenging growing season into a collection of wines that represent German varietals at their purest and most balanced.

### 2022

The 2022 harvest in Germany commenced in late August, making it one of the earliest harvests on record. Plentiful sunshine across all regions indicated a high-quality vintage with above-average volumes. 2022 is a vintage that I could monitor firsthand and across many areas, thanks to several visits to Germany throughout the growing season. My impression leading up to the harvest was that German vineyards looked healthy, and growers seemed happy with their vines’ development. The only concerning visuals I can remember were parched and water-stressed rows on Rheinhessen’s Roter Hang, but this may have been the winemaker’s noble but risky choice to farm without irrigation. All the sun and dryness suggest a quality red wine vintage, with whites likely to be ripe and lower in acidity. The heat contributed to overall healthy fruit, and berries were small and concentrated, and early reports suggest whites will be ripe, intense, and textured, perhaps resembling the 2018s. Reds should be fully ripe, full-bodied, and of excellent quality overall.

### 2021

The 2021 growing season in Germany was challenging and rewarding as we finally have what many are describing as “a classic German vintage” after three warm and dry years from 2018 to 2020\. A cold, wet winter preceded a warm February, then a cold, rainy spring in March, April, and May. June brought warm temperatures before a warm but wet July, which brought Peronospora and devastating, deadly flooding in the Ahr. These warm, wet, and humid conditions meant considerable work and expense for the growers. A hot, dry harvest period began in late August and continued through October. Cool nights kept alcohol and acidity levels in check, resulting in a vintage that reminds us of a time before climate change. The resulting wines, upon release, are fresh and full of nuanced aroma with less alcohol and welcoming acidity. I’m more enthusiastic about the 2021 Rieslings than I am about the sound but ripe 2020s. The 2021s are sleek and straight by comparison, and in some instances (where I could compare the same wine side by side), the ’21s show much more aroma on the nose and a more detailed, linear length on the palate than the ’20s. The long-term aging potential of the 2021 vintage in Germany? Of course, Lagenweine, such as the just-released VDP.GGs are just making their debut on the market, but I tasted some very well-structured, tightly wound wines that will surely go the distance, especially from Pfalz, Nahe, and Rheinhessen.

### 2020

2020 is a hot vintage with similar weather to 2003\. An early spring began with warm and sunny days then frost in May, which reduced yields in some regions. Rheinhessen and Pfalz were mostly unaffected. Flowering occurred towards the end of May, preceding a hot and dry summer. The harvest began at the end of August in most regions just as cooler weather brought relief to harvesters and kept acidity levels closer to 2012 or 2015\. Early harvesting was another key to preserving acidity, and it was important to harvest quickly as grapes ripened rapidly and often all at once, making 2020 the “Turboherbst” (turbo autumn), as it was dubbed by some growers. These were ideal conditions for red grapes, and my tasting book is filled with outstanding notes for 2020 Spätburgunder. This following 2019, yet another outstanding vintage for German Pinot Noir. Another feature of the 2020 vintage is that there was very little botrytis, and Kabinett is in good supply. In the end, the 2020s have a bit more freshness than the 2018s and aren’t as heavy or as alcoholic as the 2003s. Overall, a very good vintage.

### 2019

While 2019 is another hot vintage in Germany, the wines generally possess more refreshing acidity than the 2018s, and low yields resulted in good concentration. After a mostly smooth flowering, a late spring frost on May 5th left some Mosel growers with half their normal crop, and a few localized hailstorms and sunburned grapes in some areas contributed to already low yields. A hot, dry summer commenced, and while temperatures reached a scorching 104 degrees more than once, there were fewer hot days during the growing season than in 2018\. September rain and cool nights helped to retain acidity, but the rain meant picking dates had to be chosen carefully. The harvest began for early-ripening varieties like Müller-Thurgau in mid-September, with the harvest for later-ripening varieties like Riesling not occurring till the end of the month. With good acidity, ripe, concentrated fruit, and thick skins, the 2019 vintage produced outstanding Riesling that was delicious from the outset, and top dry wines should age beautifully. Spätburgunder is ripe and structured with superb aroma (my Notizbuch has many excellent notes for Spätburgunder in this vintage). Noble rot was not particularly prevalent in 2019.

### 2018

The 2018 growing season in Germany was hot, dry, and bountiful, producing the largest harvest since 1999\. The bumper crop of healthy grapes following the frost-affected, low-yielding 2017 vintage was a welcome relief for growers who experienced little to no frost in 2018\. Harvest began early, but conditions remained dry without vast amounts of botrytis, allowing many growers to produce a full range of styles, from trocken to TBA. A cold snap in January meant excellent Eiswein for those who waited. The resulting wines, upon release, were ripe and expressive with generally riper acidities. Comparisons to the 2005 and 2003 vintages come to mind, but unlike the 2003s, the 2018s have more shape, freshness, and structure thanks to thick-skinned berries. Some excellent Prädikatsweine resulted from this vintage, including some exceptional Auslesen. Spätburgunder achieved plenty of ripeness in this vintage. The long-term aging potential of the 2018 vintage in Germany remains too early to tell. Still, the ripe acidities point to early drinking pleasure, with the very top dry Rieslings giving lots of gratification in their youth and enough structure to offer many years of satisfaction.

### 2017

Early spring frosts significantly reduced the 2017 vintage in Germany, but warm and dry weather with plentiful sunshine throughout the growing season resulted in an early start to the harvest. Some of the hardest-hit frost areas were the Saar, Mosel, and Rheinhessen, but for those who produced the upper levels of Prädikatsweine, the small crop and the early onset of botrytis produced wines of high extract. Early harvesting was necessary to keep acidity and alcohol levels in check for the basic trocken Riesling category, and these wines show freshness and snap. Overall, the low yields, warm days, and cool nights produced concentrated wines with freshness and salinity, and some producers liken the 2017s to the 2010 vintage. Franken avoided the spring frosts, and the quality of its Silvaner and Spätburgunder is excellent.

### 2016

Elegance, balance, and charm are the words that sum up the 2016 vintage in Germany, despite a wet spring and early summer. Temperatures warmed beginning in mid-July and remained warm through August and September before cooling with dry October and November. The rain and occasional hailstorms during the spring months resulted in a lower-yielding vintage, and the dry weather in the latter half of the growing season meant that very few botrytis-style wines were produced. Generally viewed as an excellent vintage for dry wines, 2016 trocken Rieslings display moderate alcohol and higher acidity than the 2015s. The Nahe and Mosel were the most challenged regions due to excess rainfall, with sites on slopes and of slate soils fairing best. Rheinhessen, especially the vineyards on the Roter Hang, produced very fine quality in 2016\. Overall, the wines give immediate pleasure with not one component outweighing another. A very good vintage of classic elegance and charming drinkability.

### 2010 \*\*\*++

2010 was a cool, wet, low-yielding, high-acid vintage, saved by a very hot July and a warm October. Riesling has sharp acidity, resulting in spectacular, long-lasting sweet wines. Hail and challenging weather conditions during flowering cut yields by 25 percent; the Rheinhessen and Pfalz were especially hard hit. The white wines, while lighter in body and alcohol, are aromatic, mineral, and refreshingly acidic. At the same time, the reds are juicy and fresh—a small but attractive vintage with sweet Rieslings that will reward cellaring.

### 2009 \*\*\*\*+

Although a slightly smaller vintage than 2008, the 2009 vintage in Germany received high praise from the international wine press and ranked among the best vintages of that decade. Spring and early summer were relatively cool, with rain showers arriving in June and July. August brought warmer and drier weather, but cool nights helped retain aromas and acidity leading into harvest. Hail reduced yields in the Rheingau in a mostly otherwise idyllic harvest season which began in September and continued through October. Botrytis was limited in most areas, and 2009 resulted in minimal quantities of sweet Prädikatswein in Germany. 2009 is an outstanding dry wine vintage featuring wines with fully ripened fruit character, higher alcohol, and sometimes lower acidity. Great dry wines in good supply came from Pfalz, Rheinhessen, and Franken. While some Nahe estates produced excellent sweet wines in 2009, dry GGs are the wines to focus on from this vintage.

### 1999

The 1999 growing season in Germany was defined by a hot and dry September before ten days of heavy rain arrived in October. The harvest followed a perfect April bud break and a near-perfect spring and summer. At the time, these were some of the highest temperatures ever recorded in Germany’s wine regions, with early comparisons drawn to the legendary 1959s. Dry weather returned in mid-October, but ten days of rain diluted the berries' concentration. The resulting wines, upon release, generally displayed lower acid levels, and many 1999 Rieslings featured a soft, approachable, early-drinking style. Some intensely rich and concentrated Trockenbeerenausleses were produced later in the harvest. Baden, with its focus on early-ripening Burgundian varieties, fared well, as did Württemberg and Franken. Archetypal Rieslings, if lower acidity, were made in the famous sites of the Pfalz, Rheingau, Nahe, and Mosel, with an outstanding result in the Saar. The long-term aging potential of the 1999 vintage in Germany is below average, except for the sweet Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines from top producers. Most of the finest 1999 Rieslings have reached their drinking window, and it is probably best to open and enjoy any lingering in your collection.

### 1990 \*\*\*\*\*

1990 is a small but concentrated vintage with long-lived dry and sweet wines. Considered excellent and possibly the best vintage in Germany since the legendary 1971s. A warm, near-perfect spring brought early flowering, followed by hot, dry weather over the summer months. Heavy rains and a dramatic temperature change in August brought about botrytis, which reduced the yield by 1/3, but also delayed the harvest of dry wines, preserving acidity and resulting in highly concentrated sweet wines. There are outstanding Auslesen, BA, TBA, and Eiswein from the Mosel in 1990\. Most wines are best to drink now, though the highest Prädikat categories may age much longer.

### 1984

From Michael Broadbent's Vintage Wine: "Poor, acidic wines, one of, if not the worst vintage of the decade." Most reports of this vintage mention a poor, practically non-existent summer with cool temperatures that resulted in underripe grapes. The harvest was late; October was warm, dry, and sunny. Overall, wines tend to be thin and acidic. Broadbent mentions an excellent Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Eiswein 1984 tasted with Hugh Johnson in 1991, but positive words about Germany's 1984 vintage are few and far between.

### 1978

For a decade that gave us the legendary 1971 vintage and some very good '76s and '75s, there were also some awful vintages like '72 and '74\. '77\. and '78\. A wet spring delayed budbreak, and flowering was poor. Summer was mostly cold and rainy before warm conditions arrived in September and October. The grapes failed to reach full ripeness, and the wines were light and acidic upon release. Broadbent writes in Vintage Wine that his "overall impression of the wines is that they were pleasant enough, mostly mild and gentle, lacking distinction and length."

### 1976 \*\*\*\*+

1976 was one of the best of the 20th century, producing excellent quality across Germany’s growing regions. The cool, wet spring delayed budburst, but warm weather followed, allowing successful flowering before heat and drought set in, making it the hottest summer in 100 years. August was warm and sunny, and autumn moisture arrived in September, encouraging botrytis. The sunny weather continued until the end of the vintage. Very ripe and concentrated sweet wines resulted from the warm vintage and autumn mists. Auslesen and higher Prädikate from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer and Rheingau were particularly successful. Some 1976 Rieslings have stood the test of time despite generally lower acidities and continue to offer pleasure after 45+ years in the bottle. Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Franken were all outstanding. In Frank Schoonmaker’s classic book “The Wines of Germany” (Revised Edition by Peter Sichel © 1980), the summary reads: “Next to ’49 and ’21 \[1976 is\] considered one of the greatest vintages of this century.”

### 1975 \*\*\*\*+

1975 was an excellent vintage in Germany, producing refined, filigreed wines that have aged beautifully and are ready to drink now. A mild winter preceded a cool spring, which delayed flowering, and sufficient rain during the summer months resulted in healthy grapes heading into August. Botrytis in the Mosel, Rheingau, and Nahe regions resulted in long-lived Auslesen to Beerenauslesen, brought about by early-September rains followed by sunshine, extending the harvest into October and November. A more elegant vintage compared to the rich and concentrated 1976s, and one to enjoy now.

### 1959 \*\*\*\*\*

1959 is a legendary vintage in Germany that served as the quality benchmark of the 20th century until the 1971 vintage emerged. A remarkably warm vintage that delivered concentrated, naturally sweet Rieslings of profound depth and longevity. The growing season was exceptionally hot, with warm, sunny conditions throughout the harvest. Botrytis in the Mosel gave extraordinary Auslesen, though TBA and producers like Joh. Jos. Prüm produced iconic and highly collectible examples of sweet Mosel Riesling in 1959\. Incredibly long-lived and an absolute joy to drink now, if you can find one!

### 1914

It is incredible to think this is the vintage that, just before its harvest, the assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand occurred, Austria declared war on Serbia, and Germany (Austria’s ally) declared war on Russia (Serbia’s ally). WWI. While horrific fighting took place in the vineyards of Champagne, German winegrowers still brought in the harvest despite the shortage of men and horsepower. 1914 was also just four years after the formation of the VDNV (Verband deutscher Naturweinversteigerer), the predecessor of today’s VDP.
### German Wine Glossary
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-glossary/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T15:13:07.000Z
### Anreicherung (Chaptalization)

The French chemist Jean-Antoine-Claude Chaptal invented the practice of enriching the grape must before or during fermentation in 1801\. After a string of poor vintages in the Mosel during the 1840s, a German chemist named Ludwig Gall suggested Chaptal’s method of “Verbesserung” (improving) the must, which probably made the difference between having something to sell and not having it in those days. Of course, enriching without oversight led to thin and acidic wines, damaging the reputation of German wine in the process.

Ever since Germany’s first National Wine Law was enacted in 1892, German lawmakers have been grappling with the issue of Chaptalization. The first wine law allowed for chaptalization, but, according to Hugh Johnson’s The Story of Wine, “made it mandatory to say whether a wine was natural (i.e., without added sugar) or not.”

The revised Second German Wine Law (1909) attempted to restrict the amount of chaptalization that could occur to a maximum of 20% of the undiluted wine, but in a total head scratcher, Anne Krebiehl MW writes in her book, The Wines of Germany, "\[the law\] restricted the use of all quality- and purity- denoting terms, including Prädikate, Cabinet, to Naturwein.”

Under the Fifth (and current) Wine Law, the must may be sugared before or during fermentation for Deutscher Wein, Landwein, and Qualitätswein in Germany. Enrichment is prohibited for Prädikatswein. Since 1985, the so-called “Nassverbesserung” (water + sugar), introduced by the earlier-mentioned Ludwig Gall, has been prohibited. Since 1989, Anreicherung has been done with sucrose in the form of refined sugar or with rektifiziertem Traubenmostkonzentrat (RTK). Since 2002, must concentration via reverse osmosis is also permitted.

The enrichment margins are set to the following alcohol volumes:

\-Winegrowing Zone A: 3.0% Vol.

\-Winegrowing Zone B: 2.0% Vol.

\-An upper limit for enrichment is set for Qualitätswein at 15% Vol. max.

Since I’m not sure where else to put this, I’m dropping the following right here:

Since the 2009 vintage, Member States can also allow acidification in wine-growing zones A and B in years with exceptional weather conditions. – Who would have thought this twenty years ago?

As I’m reviewing Das Weinrecht (The German Wine Law) booklet issued by Germany’s Bundesanstalt für Landwirtschaft und Ernährung (Federal Agency for Agriculture and Food), I will take the opportunity to post what I feel is the most pertinent information for the US wine trade and consumer (my main audience), stripped of most of the gobbledygook. The present edition of the booklet describes the state of affairs in January 2018\. I’ll also summarize the amendments announced on 27 January 2021 (to be put into full effect with the 2026 harvest).

### Bocksbeutel

The Bocksbeutel is a traditional, squat, flask-shaped bottle used with immense pride by winegrowers in Germany’s Franconia region. Similarly shaped wine bottles (usually the Cantil) have long histories elsewhere in Europe and in far-off places like Chile, but nowhere else are they tied to a region’s identity as in Franken. Flagon-shaped clay wine bottles were around in the Middle Ages, and glass versions were in use by 1685\. The Franconians have made numerous attempts to claim exclusivity over the Bocksbeutel. In 1984, a European Court decided that the Bocksbeutel could not be Franken’s exclusive property. In 1999, the Bocksbeutel was granted PDO status by the European Commission, giving Franconian wine producers protective rights over the Bocksbeutel (exceptions were made for the Baden district of Tauberfranken and for four villages in Ortenau, which had a historical claim to the bottle). In 2001, Franconian producers built a 35-meter-high Bocksbeutel hot air balloon to protest a European Union initiative that would have made it available to all European wine producers. An article from The Guardian reporting on the protest contains a hilarious quote from Johannes Lay, head of the Franconian winegrowers’ association at the time, “When people see the goat’s scrotum flying across Europe - that should say it all.” Whether its name comes from “ram’s scrotum,” which is supposed to be of similar shape, or if it came from a Booksbüdel, which would have been a small sack used to carry prayer or songbooks, is a bit of wine lore. The short-necked, pot-bellied, flattened shape derives from field bottles that predate the Middle Ages and were practical and common for transport. A new shape was introduced by star designer Peter Schmidt from Hamburg in 2015, giving the Bocksbeutel a modern refresh with sleeker lines and a cleaner look. The new design is not mandatory but protected for Franken's use only, and I can see that it's been widely adopted by many Franken producers. It’s a common complaint among wine merchants that the Bocksbeutel can’t be easily stacked or binned, and many find the shape old-fashioned and unappealing. I, for one, find the Bockbeutel charming (Bockbeutel splits and magnums are especially alluring), and I agree with Weingut Hans Wirsching’s position, “For us, the Bocksbeutel embodies tradition, uniqueness, and home.”

### Category Types

Weißwein (white wine) – obtained from white grapes

Rotwein (red wine) – obtained from the pressed must of red wine grapes

Roséwein (rosé wine) – obtained from red grapes produced in a pale to light red color

\-- Weißherbst (lit. “white autumn” but from Blauer Arbst syn. For Pinot Nor) – rosé obtained from the pale must of red grapes from a single grape variety. Originating in Baden, Weißherbst can be produced anywhere in Germany

Rotling - a pale to light red colored wine obtained from a blend of white and red wine grapes

\-- Schillerwein–is a traditional Rotling from Württemberg obtained by blending any variety of white and red grapes. “Schiller” likely refers to the shimmering color rather than Friedrich Schiller, the poet from Württemberg

\-- Badisch Rotgold–is a Rotling from Baden made exclusively from Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. The Pinot Gris must be a higher proportion in the blend

\-- Schieler–appears to be an alternate spelling for Schiller, used for Rotling Sachsen

### Federweißer

Federweißer (feather white) is a sill-fermenting, harvest-time staple in Germany, and similar beverages appear around the same time in other European wine regions like Sturm in Austria, and Ribolla fresca in Friuli, Italy. The fizzy, sweet, and cloudy liquid is something you drink at the Straußwirtschaft, or Buschenschank, traditionally paired with specific foods like roasted chestnuts with the Ribolla or Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart) in the case of Federweißer. If you haven’t reached your limit at the Straußwirtschaft, bring your own container and fill it for home consumption. It’s still fermenting, so if you prefer it drier, let it sit at room temperature for a few hours, then refrigerate your Federweißer when it’s to your taste like a true connoisseur. I can’t say Federweißer holds a lot of appeal for me, but neither does “Himmel un Äd” until you’re sitting in a Köln Brauhaus with the friendly Köbes patiently waiting for the order. Federweißer: best in situ.

### Fuder

A Fuder or Moselfuder is a large oval-shaped oak cask holding 1,000 liters, while a half-sized cask, or Halbfuder, holds 500 liters. Traditionally made from German oak, often sourced from the Hunsrück or Palatinate forests. The Fuder is typical of the Mosel, providing subtle oxygenation and natural temperature control due to its mass. Some producers bottle specific Fuder lots separately under specific Fuder numbers.

### Landwein

Landwein may be produced from one of Germany's 26 Landwein regions, similar to the French Vin de Pays. Landwein is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI in English or g.g.A. in German) registered in the European Union's database and may bear the PGI seal on its label. Village and vineyard names may not appear on the label. 85% of the grapes must have been harvested in the defined area. Some Landwein regions stipulate that 100% of the grapes must come from that region. Landwein Rhein, Upper Rhein, Rhein-Neckar, and Neckar wine regions may be sweet. Otherwise, the wines must be dry or semi-dry. The 26 Landwein regions are Ahrtaler, Badischer, Bayerischer Bodensee, Brandenburger, Main, der Mosel, Neckar, Oberrhein, Rhein, Rhein-Neckar, der Ruwer, der Saar, Mecklenburger, Mitteldeutscher, Nahegauer, Pfälzer, Regensburger, Rheinburgen, Rheingauer, Rheinischer Saarländischer, Sächsischer, Schleswig-Holsteiner, Schwäbischer, Starkenburger, and Taubertäler.

### Perlwein/Secco

Perlwein (sometimes called Secco in Germany) is a semi-sparkling wine with a pressure of 1 to 2.5 bars and an alcohol content of at least 7%, which can be made as Wein or Qualitätswein. Wines labeled “Perlwein” must be produced with the wine's own carbon dioxide (i.e., the tank method). “Perlwein mit zugesetzter Kohlensäure” indicates a Perlwein with added carbon dioxide (via the impregnation method). The resulting wine is semi-sparkling and is the equivalent of frizzante in Italy or pétillant in France.

Flavor profiles for Perlwein:

\-Trocken: up to 35 g/L residual sugar

\-Halbtrocken: 33 - 50 g/L residual sugar

\-Mild: >50 g/L residual sugar

### Schaumwein

Schaumwein (lit. foam wine) is the generic term for fully-sparkling wines, with a minimum pressure of 3 bars. It’s the equivalent of Vin Mousseaux in France and can made by any method: traditional method, Charmant method, or by adding carbon dioxide. The distinction between Schaumwein and Sekt is that “Sekt” refers specifically to sparkling wine whose CO2 is produced as a byproduct of secondary fermentation and reaches a minimum of 3.5 bars of pressure.

### Süssreserve

Süssreserve is unfermented grape must, preserved most commonly through sterile filtration. It is then added to wine that has already finished fermentation to adjust the residual sweetness of and soften the wine’s acidity. While it’s allowed for all quality levels, Süssreserve can comprise no more than 15% of the wine’s volume, and in the case of Prädikatswein, the unfermented grape must is required to come from the same Weinanbaugebiet as the fermented wine. The practice of adding Süssreserve in German wine making is in decline.
### Ahr: Pinot from Sun and Slate
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-pinot-from-sun-and-slate/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:02:16.000Z
As we've seen in Zellertal in the northern Pfalz or Santa Ynez in coastal California, wine valleys with west-east orientations often yield something unique regarding climate. Its orientation is just one factor that makes the Ahr Valley, which lies north of the 50th parallel, distinctive. The Ahr River, a tributary of the Rhine, begins in Blankenheim in the Eifel region, "in the cellar of a timber-frame house near the castle," and flows for 25 kilometers through the Ahrtal (Ahr Valley) winegrowing region, and eventually joins the Rhine after Heimersheim. This side valley of the Rhine features steep south-facing slopes sheltered by the low Eifel range and benefits from the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream, creating a longer growing season than its next-door neighbor, the Mosel.

### Ahr Facts

Hectares under vine

535 (2025)

Climate

Mediterranean-like

Soils

Devonian slate, greywacke, loam, loess

Varieties

Spätburgunder (65.3%), Riesling (8.2%), Frühburgunder (6.1%), Regent, Weißburgunder, Portugieser, Müller-Thurgau

Bereich

Walporzheim-Ahrtal

Einzellagen 43

Ahrweiler Rosenthal, Altenahr Eck, Dernau Pfarrwingert, Heimersheim Landkrone, Neuenahr Sonnenberg, Walporzheim Gärkammer (monopollage of JJ Adeneuer), Walporzheim Kräuterberg

The Ahr's geography and climate help explain why it's a red wine-dominated region, with over 65% of its area planted with Spätburgunder and smaller plantings of the red varieties Dornfelder, Portugieser, and, of local importance, Frühburgunder. Like the Mosel, the Ahr has a cool climate, and Devonian slate plays a pivotal role here, too, heating the ground during the day and giving warmth back to the vine at night. Slate and Pinot Noir are a rare combination, giving Ahr Spätburgunder a smoky, uniquely mineral identity and drawing international attention to its top producers beginning in the mid-1980s.

Until the late 1970s, Ahr vineyards comprised almost equal proportions of red and white varieties, and the local version of Weissherbst known as Ahrbleichert (from bleichen, meaning to bleach) would have been standard in the Straußwirtschaften alongside unserious sweet red wines. Pinot Noir often came from lesser clones like Mariafelder and Ritter, and the region might have gone along contentedly mediocre if Werner Näkel, a former schoolteacher, hadn't been so enamored with Henri Jayer and the red wines of Burgundy. Näkel planted Pinot clones from Burgundy and used small oak barrels to produce a new Ahr Pinot type with class and sophistication, like a great Vosne-Romanée or Gevrey-Chambertin.

I still remember the buzz about Meyer-Näkel's 2005 Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder winning Decanter's Pinot Noir Trophy when many in the US trade were still unsure about Germany's potential as a world-class red wine producer. Meyer-Näkel, Jean Stodden, JJ Adeneuer, Deutzerhof, Nelles, Burggarten, HJ Kreuzberg, Sermann, and the Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoß\* lead the Ahr on the quality front today. With the villages of Walporzheim and Marienthal at the center of the Ahr Valley, the vineyards to its west are high, steep, and terraced, with slate soils that give wines structure and a mineral taste. East of Walporzheim, vineyards are lower and less steep, with loess and loam, and, in theory, show softer, more fruit-driven Pinots.

The Ahr vineyards are well elaborated by the producers mentioned above. From east to west, there are Heimersheim and Landskrone with greywacke, loam, and loess. Neuenahr Sonnenberg with greywacke, slate, loam, and loess. Ahrweiler Rosenthal with greywacke soil, producing full-bodied, long-lived Pinots. Walporzheim Kräuterberg with slate soils. Walporzheim Gärkammer, greywacke and slate, a monopollage of JJ Adeneuer. The previously mentioned Dernau Pfarrwingert, a warm greywacke site, produces ripe, aromatic Spätburgunder. The steep Altenahr Eck greywacke and slate yield mineral-intense Pinot Noir and Riesling.

\*Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoß (Germany's first cooperative winery was founded in 1868, before Germany became a nation.

[Ahr Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/ahr-producers/)
### Baden: Greetings from the Kraichgau
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-greetings-from-the-kraichgau/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:07:48.000Z
"Greetings from the Kraichgau," wrote Claus Burmeister, the general manager and winemaker of two fine Baden estates: Burg Ravensburg and Heitlinger. His salutation, specifying the Kraichgau, one of Baden's nine Bereiche (districts), made me smile. Bereiche are administrative divisions of Germany's thirteen Weinbaugebiete (wine regions) and can, in theory, appear on wine labels. German wine law identifies forty-one Bereiche, and in theory, these large geographic areas should present a particular flavor profile. Only a few German wine experts can distinguish Nierstein from Bingen or Wonnegau (Rheinhessen's three Bereiche), and Bereich names rarely appear on labels in export markets such as the United States.

### Baden Facts

Hectares under vine

15,142 (2025)

Climate

sunny and warm, with the Kaiserstuhl the warmest area in Germany; Baden is the only German region placed in EU wine-growing Zone B

Soils

shell limestone in Tauberfranken; elsewhere a wide variety including keuper, loam, loess, granite, clay, limestone, and sand — the Kaiserstuhl is an extinct volcano, and glacial moraine is typical of the Bodensee

Varieties

\[white 62%, red 38%\]: Pinot Noir (4,765 ha) and Pinot Blanc (1,640 ha), Germany’s largest plantings of both, Pinot Gris, Müller-Thurgau, Gutedel (971 ha), Riesling, Silvaner, Traminer; the Pinot family covers 9,162 ha, 61% of the region

Bereiche 9

Tauberfranken, Badische Bergstraße, Kraichgau, Ortenau, Breisgau, Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg, Markgräflerland, Bodensee

Einzellagen 306

across 16 Großlagen

On the other hand, Baden is a sprawling region, the third-largest in Germany, with 15,522 hectares, and the Bereich and Großlagen names have historical usage. The use of larger place names is understandable given the region's size. The holdings of its growers also contribute to the structure of Baden's wine business. Around 20,000 growers own an average of 0.6 hectares per grower, and looking after the vines is often a part-time affair. Most of these weekend winegrowers belong to the 100 cooperatives that produce and market about 85% of Baden's wine. The geography of Baden spans over 400 kilometers of latitude. The soil, climate, and terrain of Tauberfranken in the north are very different from those of Bodensee in the south.

This leads us back to Kraichgau, a district lying roughly between Heidelberg and Baden-Baden, and it is an excellent example of Baden's diversity. The chalky-loess soil with pockets of marl and shale limestone makes this an ideal district for Burgundian varieties, with Auxerrois, Weißburgunder, and Spätburgunder standing out as local specialties. Visit another of Baden's nine districts, and you’ll encounter volcanic soil, granite, or gneiss. Geologically speaking, Baden is complex, not unlike the Alsace region of France directly across the Rhine. Then there’s Baden’s range of grape varieties. Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) from Kaiserstuhl might be Baden's current calling card, but an abundance of grape varieties like Gutedel (Chasselas), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), and Riesling excel in Germany's warmest and sun-spoilt wine region.

There are nine Bereiche (districts) within the Baden Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Tauberfranken, Badische Bergstraße, Kraichgau, Ortenau, Breisgau, Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg, Markgräflerland, and Bodensee.

### Tauberfranken

Tauberfranken (known as Badische Frankenland until 1992) is the northernmost of Baden’s nine Bereiche, taking its name from the Tauber River, which flows through the wine regions of Franken, Württemberg, and Baden, before meeting the Main River in Wertheim. Wertheim am Main is about an hour’s drive west of Würzburg, and like the wines of the Franken region, Tauberfranken is bottled in the traditional Bocksbeutel. Tauberfranken’s 604 hectares of vines are on rolling hills and consist of sandstone and Muschelkalk. The cooler climate and calcareous soil benefit Müller-Thurgau and Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier), the district’s focus varieties. Müller-Thurgau is typically dry and mineral in style, while Schwarzriesling is vinified as red wine and is fruity and spicy. Frank Schoonmaker wrote in his classic reference, ‘The Wines of Germany’ (revised edition 1980): “The communities where the best wines grow are Königheim, Beckstein, and Königshofen. The center of the wine trade is Tauberbischofsheim.”

### Badische Bergstraße

“Here Germany begins to become Italy,” said Emperor Joseph II in 1764\. The marketing arm of Badischer Wein notes that the climate of the Badische Bergstraße is Mediterranean, as evidenced by the blooming cherry, peach, and almond trees interspersed among the vineyards. This small district, just 385 hectares, immediately borders Heidelberg. On a map, Bereich Badische Bergstraße appears to be a continuation of the Weinbaugebiet Hessische Bergstraße in the Odenwald. The separation is probably due to the Bereich being in Baden-Württemberg, while the Weinbaugebiet is in Hesse. The Oden Forest offers protection from cold easterly winds. The area is blessed with abundant sunshine, allowing Pinot Noir and Riesling to achieve full-bodied and intense flavors on deep loess, loam, and weathered porphyry, granite, gneiss, and red sandstone. It’s curious then that Ian Jamieson wrote of the region in his 1991 book entitled German Wines: “the style of the wines is northerly. They have more acidity and are generally lighter in alcohol than those of southern Baden.”

### Kraichgau

The Kraichgau is a hilly district of 1,155 hectares lying roughly between Heidelberg and Baden-Baden. It is an excellent example of Baden’s soil diversity, with its chalky loess over colored sandstone and pockets of Keuper (marl) and Muschelkalk (shale limestone), ideally suited to Burgundian varieties. This contrasts with the granitic soils of the Ortenau directly south. Auxerrois is a local specialty, and while Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier) once played a role here, it has been replaced by Spätburgunder. The village of Malsch lays claim to some of Kraichgau’s best Weißburgunder and Spätburgunder, while Riesling is excellent and full-bodied from the stonier soils of Sulzfeld. With its rocky outcrop and old castle, the historic Burg Ravensburg in Sulzfeld has long been a standard-bearer for quality in the Kraichgau. I’ve also tasted excellent examples of Kraichgau Chardonnay from limestone soils at Heitlinger’s Heinberg VDP.Grosse Lage in Östringen and Klumpp's Kirchberg vineyard in Bruchsal.

### Ortenau

The district between Baden-Baden and Offenburg is the Ortenau, with 2,705 hectares of vineyards. Granitic soils, relatively high rainfall, and the pine trees of the Black Forest define the area. Spätburgunder is the leading variety, accounting for 47% of total plantings, followed by Riesling at 25%. Riesling is especially interesting in this Bereich and is the dominant variety in the Rebland, a 300-hectare subregion near Baden-Baden. Klingelberger is a regional synonym for Riesling (from Schloss Klingelberg), and Schloss Neuweier’s Mauerberg is planted exclusively with Riesling. The village of Durbach, with its surrounding steep slopes, is primarily known for its racy dry Riesling and Traminer. Andreas Laible is one of the finest Riesling producers in Durbach.

The villages of Sasbachwalden, with its Alder Gott vineyard, and Waldum are known for their Spätburgunder. At Bühl, Spätburgunder is a significant variety, and Jacob Duijin is a reference point for quality. The Affentaler Winzergenossenschaft (co-op) produces wine from Spätburgunder and packages it in bottles with a monkey on the label. The Cistercians planted Pinot Noir here over 700 years ago, and cries of "Ave Maria" led to "Ave Tal" (Ave Valley) and later to Affental, so the story goes. Since we're speaking of bottles, four villages in Ortenau have the right to the Bocksbeutel. A Buddel, a variation on the Bocksbeutel, was intended to symbolize regional quality in the past. Weißherbst is a rosé produced entirely from Pinot Noir.

### Breisgau

Breisgau is the district near Freiburg, the capital of the Black Forest. Northeast of the Kaiserstuhl-Tuniberg is the old city on the Rhine called Breisach, which, confusingly, is not in the Bereich Breisgau but in the Kaiserstuhl, and is home to the Badische Winzerkeller mega-cooperative. Breisgau’s 1,592 hectares grow at a 200-300 meters height asl on mainly loess and loam soils. In the micro-climate of the Gottertal, they reach up to 500 meters. Spätburgunder is the main variety, but Grauburgunder, Weißburgunder, and Müller-Thurgau are also important. In ‘The Wines of Germany’ (revised edition 1980), Frank Schoonmaker wrote that “Müller-Thurgau is fruity and somewhat heavier here. It is fairly dry, with less acidity.” Despite Müller-Thurgau’s looming presence, Muschelkalk provides the opportunity to produce some of Baden’s finest Spätburgunders, and several outstanding producers, including Bernhard Huber, Shelter, and Enderle & Moll, are all based here. In Glottertal, Pinot Noir is vinified as Weissherbst.

### Kaiserstuhl

From the American wine trade perspective, Kaiserstuhl Spätburgunder is Baden’s calling card. As I learned from Dr. Rainer Amann of the Staatliches Weinbauinstitut in Freiburg, Kaiserstuhl’s notoriety as one of Germany’s best Spätburgunder areas is relatively recent, and the stump of this extinct volcano is still planted mainly to white varieties. Kaiserstuhl, “the Emperor’s chair” because of its horseshoe shape, comes from a fable in which a German emperor holds court in the mountain's innermost reaches. The löss, up to 20 meters deep in some areas, helps explain the proportion of white varieties in this large 4,149-hectare Bereich.

With explosives, the Ihringer Winklerberg was created between 1842 and 1844, and the new vineyard was planted with Rheingau Riesling, Deidesheimer Traminer, and Spätburgunder from Clos de Vougeot. The Totenkopf (skull and crossbones) is the highest point of the Kaiserstuhl and rises to 557 meters. You can see some of Baden’s best wine villages, including Achkarren, Bickensohl (both famous for Grauburgunder), Bischoffingen, and Burkheim. Then you have Oberbergen, home of the famous wine list of Restaurant Schwarzer Adler, Obberotweil, and Ihringen.

Kaiserstuhl’s climate makes it the warmest wine region in Germany. Part of its myth is that volcanic soils rich in minerals lend a fiery taste to the wines, although I find that most leading producers strive for elegance and nuance. Fiery or not, the wines are fully ripe, layered with fruit, and possess a particular goût de terroir. There are a number of famous Einzellagen, many of which have VDP classification, and several excellent producers. Dr. Heger is a leading winery with holdings in Winklerberg and Schlossberg. Salwey is another VDP estate located in Oberrotweil, with several VDP.Grosse Lagen sites, including Kirchberg and Eichberg. Franz Keller in Oberbergen with its Michelin-starred restaurant and holdings in Schlossberg and Enselberg. The VDP.Staatsweingut Freiburg is another strong estate with its Blankenhornsberg section of the Kaiserstuhl and its famous Alleinbesitz (monopole) Doktorgarten.

### Tuniberg

The 1,065-hectare area of Tuniberg lies south of Kaiserstuhl, from which it was separated in 1990\. This hill, located between the Black Forest and the Vosges, rises to 100 meters and features limestone terraces covered with deep löss. Its climate is slightly cooler than that of the Kaiserstuhl. In theory, the wines should show higher acidity and higher-toned fruit than their famous neighbor to the north. Tuniberg is planted to 70% Burgundian varieties, issued mainly through the Badischer Winzerkeller mega co-op. The Merdinger Bühl is a well-known vineyard source for the co-op and is the source of Dr. Heger's "Tuniberg" Spätburgunder bottling. Another vineyard with an interesting backstory is the Attilafelsen, the site, according to regional legend, of Attila the Hun's grave. Of course, the "Scourge of God" supposedly passed out drunk and choked on a nosebleed on his wedding night in 453 A.D., his grave widely believed to be somewhere in Hungary. It's anyone's guess how this local legend began, but "Attilafelsen" was an April Fool's joke by the winegrowers' cooperative, and Merdinger Attilafelsen appears on several of their labels.

### Markgräflerland

Limestone almost always points to something interesting in the wine world. Limestone, after all, gives us Trimbach’s Riesling Clos Sainte Hune, Krug’s Champagne Clos du Mesnil, Raveneau’s Chablis Les Clos; the list of examples could go on. Typically, these limestone wines display strong personalities and linear profiles and are well-structured for long aging. Baden’s Markgräflerland’s best wines often come from limestone, which löss and loam frequently overlay, and a slightly cooler climate thanks to cooling breezes from the Black Forest. Baden’s second-largest Bereich, with 3,205 hectares, lies between Basel and Freiburg and borders France and Switzerland.

With Switzerland directly to the south, it’s understandable that Markgrafen Karl Friedrich von Baden introduced Gutedel here in 1780\. Gutedel, sometimes called “Markgräfler,” is identical to Swiss Chasselas and is the most widely grown variety here, with 34% of plantings. Gutedel tends to be lower in acidity, light in body, and neutral. But in Markgräflerland on limestone soils, sometimes with extended lees aging, sometimes barrel-fermented, Gutedel is capable of more. More complexity, aging capacity, and flavor than the typical Swiss fondue wine. Spätburgunder is another variety to watch out for in Markgräflerland. Just promise me not to skip the Gutedel.

### Bodensee

Germany’s southernmost wine district consists of 500 hectares on the slopes west and north of Bodensee (Lake Constance). This pre-Alpine setting also boasts glacial soils and Germany’s highest-elevation vineyard, with the Hohentwiel west of the Bodensee reaching 552 meters above sea level. The lake moderates the surprisingly mild climate, making this an ideal situation for Spätburgunder. Only in Tuniberg does Spätburgunder account for a larger share of vineyards, at 51.6%. Spätburgunder accounts for 39.4% of the Bodensee Bereich and has a history dating back to 884, when Charles III, a great-grandson of Charlemagne, planted the first Pinot Noir in the Bodman royal vineyard. Given its proximity to Switzerland, it’s not surprising that Müller-Thurgau is the second-most-planted variety at 26.6%. The State domaine at Meersburg is the largest producer but the family of VDP.Weingut Markgraf von Baden has been growing wine here since 1112 and continues to make significant contributions to the development of Baden wine.

[Baden Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/baden-producers/)
### Franken: Silvaner's Heimatland
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-silvaners-heimatland/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:14:07.000Z
Franken is Bavaria's only wine region, bordering the Baden district of Tauberfranken to the south, with most of its vineyards situated on steep slopes along the Main. The river forms a gigantic "W" shape, with the region beginning in earnest at Aschaffenburg, reaching Würzburg at its center, and ending at Zeil am Main in the east. Würzburg is Franken's commercial center. Heavily bombed during the final weeks of WWII, the town rebuilt itself, and the famous old bridge in Würzburg's Altstadt spans the Main, offering views of Würzburg Castle and the iconic Stein vineyard (the source of Goethe's favorite wine).

### Franken Facts

Hectares under vine

6,040 (2025)

Climate

Continental, dry, hot, but short summers, cold winters

Soils

Bundtsandstein (colored sandstone), Muschelkalk (shell-limestone), Keuper (marl-gypsum)

Varieties

\[82% white, 18% red\] Silvaner (24.8%), Müller-Thurgau (24.3%), Bacchus (12.3%), Riesling (4%), Kerner, Rieslaner, Spätburgunder (5%), Domina, Dornfelder,

Bereiche 3

Meinviereck, Maindreieck, Steigerwald

Einzellagen 218

Klingenberger Schlossberg, Bürgstadter Centragrafenberg, Homburger Kallmuth, Würzburger Stein, Würzburger Innere Leiste, Randersackerer Teufelskeller, Randersackerer Pfülben, Esherndorfer Lump, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg

Silvaner is Franken's signature variety, usually bottled in a PDO-protected Bocksbeutel, but some of Germany's finest dry Rieslings and Spätburgunders come from Franken, although grown in tiny quantities. The Rieslings and Silvaners are bone dry, sometimes to the point of austerity, which has given the rest of Germany a term for describing bone-dry wines: fränkisch trocken means no more than 4 g/L residual sugar. Much emphasis was placed on Müller-Thurgau and other early-ripening or high-yielding crossings in the past. Still, producers today seem keen to lead with quality, with a clear shift in priority toward Silvaner, at least in Franken's quality sector.

Bavaria, especially Munich, is the world's beer capital, and while Würzburger Stein is undoubtedly famous (so much so that the term Steinwein once meant all Franken wines), a Stein of Würzburger Edelbräu is equally good, and I would suggest it after a full day of wine tasting. Visitors to the region might want to stop by a Frankenheckenwirtschaft for some real local flavor. These simple eating and drinking places have particular rules: vintners may sell their products to the public without a restaurant license, operate on a calendar that opens for eight weeks a year, have only 40 seats, and serve no hot food. Look for a branch cut from a Hecke (hedge) above the entrance to locate one that's open. Heckenwirtschaften aside, Franken clearly understands the importance of wine tourism, and there are many more hotels and restaurants with excellent cooking than in the relatively scant offerings in other Rheinland regions. The wine villages along the Main are charming, and Würzburg is a must.

There are three Bereiche (districts) within the Franken Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Mainviereck, Maindreieck, and Steigerwald.

### Mainviereck

Franken's three Bereiche are based on three Triassic geological zones. Mainviereck in the west is home to Franken's (and some of Germany's) best red wines, especially from the historic Klingenberg and the village of Bürgstadt (a sub-district known as Churfranken), where the weather is milder than the rest of Franken, and the soil base is Buntsandstein (colored sandstone). These conditions favor Spätburgunder and Frühburgunder with a lifted, aromatic profile. Weingut Rudolf Fürst is the superstar of this area with its trio of top-class Grosses Gewächs: Spätburgunder Schlossberg GG, Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg GG, and Spätburgunder Centgrafenberg Hunsrück GG. There are slate, quartzite, and gneiss soils around Michelbach and Hörstein, which favor Riesling. Both red and white wines are more delicate than in other districts. Homburger Kallmuth, a monopole of Fürst Löwenstein, is the steepest vineyard in Franken, with Buntsandstein and Muschelkalk soils. Miltenberg is a popular town for wine tourists to explore its architecture and sample local wines.

### Maindreieck

Maindreieck is the center of Franken viticulture and is based on Muschelkalk (shell limestone), especially at Würzburger Stein. 70% of Franken wines come from this district, and 210 hectares of vines are within the city's limits. It is the driest area in the region. Steinwein has a distinctive smoky note from the soil, which deepens with time in the bottle, and three producers: Juliusspital, Bürgerspital, and Hofkeller, control most of Würzburg's viticulture. South of Würzburg are Randersacker Teufelkeller, Pfülben, and Marsberg; all feature southwestern exposures facing the river. Neighboring Frickenhausen features sandy soils and is home to the south-facing classified site Kapellenberg. Continuing upriver, the village of Sulzfeld is notable for its Maustal vineyard and outstanding producer Zehnthof Luckert. The area near Volkach and its surrounding villages is home to a high-quality co-op at Sommerach and its Katzenkopf vineyard, the grand cru Escherndorfer Lump with limestone, loess, and clay, and the Volkacher Ratsherr. By the way, the name Lump was explained to me as a Schimpfwort (an insult), "but only a moderate Schimpfwort," and why that would be the name of a vineyard, I do not know. The alternative explanation seems more plausible: as vineyard plots were divided over generations, holdings were reduced to only the size of a Lump! Silvaner is the top variety in Maindreieck, but there are excellent, bone-dry Rieslings, Weissburgunder, and aromatic varieties from this district.

### Steigerwald

Keuper defines the district of Steigerwald, which is layered along the mountain slopes. The black Keuper soil has a warming effect that aids grape ripening, even at high elevations. A concentration of classified sites lies between Rödelsee and the walled town of Iphofen, and again at Castell (the Castell family owns all the vineyards of this village, including the top site, Schloßberg), believed to be where Silvaner was first planted in Franken centuries ago. The area is home to famous sites like Küchenmeister, Kronsberg, Julius-Echter-Berg, Kalb, Casteller Schloßberg, and many top producers like Hans Wirsching, Weltner, and Johann Ruck. The black Keuper (marl with gypsum) produces wines that are more structured, flinty, smoky, and easily identifiable. Silvaner on Keuper can age magnificently, as can Silvaner on Muschelkalk. I strongly liked the Silvaners on Keuper in a recent soil-comparison tasting, especially those with 10 years or more in the bottle.

[Franken Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/franken-producers/)
### Hessische Bergstraße: The Spring Garden
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-the-spring-garden/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:18:56.000Z
The Hessische Bergstraße is Germany’s smallest wine region, with 463 hectares. The Romans called this 40-kilometer stretch between Darmstadt and Heidelberg the Strata Montana (mountain road). Most vineyards are in Bensheim and Heppenheim, with a small portion east of Darmstadt making up the Umstadt Bereich. Hessische Bergstraße’s other Bereich, Starkenburg, covers the remainder of the region. Hessische Bergstraße is warmer than the Rheingau, with a climate closer to the Pfalz, and its wines are similar in style to those of Hochheim, with lower acidity. The Odenwald hills provide shelter from rainfall, and the soils in Bensheim range from sandstone to loess loam and weathered granite. The region is 79% white and 21% red, with Riesling as the main variety (37.4%), followed by Grauburgunder, Spätburgunder, Weißburgunder, and Silvaner. Cooperatives play an essential role in Hessische Bergstraße, controlling around 90% of the vineyards, and the 500-member Bergsträßer Winzer co-op produces more than half the area’s production. Weingut Simon-Bürkle is a leading producer with their Granit and Diorit Rieslings at the top level. Sektkellerei Griesel & Compagnie is a standout sparkling producer, arguably one of Germany's very best. There are 23 Einzellagen, including the VDP.Grosse Lage Heppenheimer Centgericht, a Monopolage of the VDP.Domäne Bergstraße (Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach). Stemmler and Steinkopf are other top sites. The wines are local favorites, and very little finds its way to the export market.

### Hessische Bergstraße Facts

Hectares under vine

440 (2025)

Climate

mild, sunny, and sufficient rainfall "the Spring garden"

Soils

granite, yellow sandstone, quartz-porphyry

Varieties

Riesling (39.7%), Pinot Gris (12.1%), Pinot Noir (11%), Pinot Blanc (5.4%), and Silvaner

Bereiche 2

Starkenberg, Zwingenberg

Einzellagen 20

Centgericht, Steinkopf

There are two Bereiche (districts) within the Hessische Bergstraße Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Starkenberg and Zwingenberg.

[Hessische Bergstraße Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/hessische-bergstrasse-producers/)
### Mittelrhein: Romance on the Rhine
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-romance-on-the-rhine/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:22:56.000Z
From an American perspective, Mittelrhein is one of the lesser-known of Germany’s 13 Weinanbaugebiete. Still, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2003, perhaps we know it better as a tourist destination. For many day travelers from Bonn and elsewhere in Europe, Mittelrhein means leisure. For decades, it seemed, the only Mittelrhein producer you might encounter in the US is the excellent VDP estate Toni Jost, and I’m guessing very few in the US wine trade take their foot off the gas between Rheingau and Mosel appointments. But this 100-kilometer drive along the Rhine, with vineyards starting opposite Assmanshausen and ending at the outskirts of Bonn, will take you through one of Germany’s most picturesque and romantic places, complete with fairytale stories and medieval castles.

### Mittelrhein Facts

Hectares under vine

439 (2025)

Climate

sunny, sheltered from the wind, and ripening aided by the Rhein

Soils

slate, greywacke, quartzite

Varieties

\[white 84.8%, red 15.2%\]: Riesling (65%), Müller-Thurgau (4.9%), Spätburgunder (10%)

Bereiche 2

Loreley, Siebengebirge

Einzellagen 111

Bacharacher Hahn, Bopparder Hamm (a collective site) including Mandelstein, Feuerlay, Ohlenberg, Engelstein

Don’t let the extended distance from the first vineyard to the last give the wrong impression. Mittelrhein is the second smallest of Germany’s thirteen wine regions, with just 468 hectares. Part of its charm is how narrow and steep the valley is at this point on the Rhine. The famous rock cliffs you’ll pass—the Mittelrhein is the home to the Lorelei rock and legends surrounding it—and the irresistible pull of its attractive villages make it a tourist magnet. This landscape also makes strenuous demands of its winegrowers, who work almost exclusively by hand on terraced steep slopes of barren Devonian slate and quartzite soils on both sides of the Rhine.

These are the rugged conditions in which Riesling thrives, and Riesling is the Mittelrhein’s most planted grape variety, followed by Müller-Thurgau and Spätburgunder. Riesling on slate and generally higher acidity make for natural comparisons to Mosel wines, and you’ll still find plenty of off-dry styles in this region. Steep vineyards in a northerly climate mean high labor costs, and herein lies the Mittelrhein’s greatest challenge: obtaining realistic prices. Compounding the issue is that thirsty tourists who’ve come more for the scenery are not necessarily looking to spend top dollar at the village tavern for a 750 ML of Jost Bacharacher Hahn GG.

The market for local wines remains steady, but as of 2023, three additional Mittelrhein estates join Toni Jost in the export-minded VDP: Lanius-Knab, Ratzenberger, and Matthias Müller. During a recent visit to Weingut Matthias Müller, the top wines tasted from this estate were the dry GG Rieslings from Bopparder Hamm (Mandelstein, Feuerlay, and Engelstein). From what I can discern, Mittelrhein remains a source of quality Prädikatswein, as shown by Weingut Volk and Weinhaus Heilig Grab, which I tasted during the same tour of the region. These producers focus on Bopparder Hamm, a 90-hectare collective site with grey and blue Devonian slate soils from a wall of steep south-facing vineyards.

Opposite the final Rheingau village of Lorchhausen is the famous town of Bacharach, with a collection of steep, south-facing sites like Posten, Wolfshöle, and Hahn. Bacharacher Hahn is close to the Lorelei and is a near-monopoly of Toni Jost. It's south-to-southeast-facing, 55-68% steep slope consists of weathered Devonian slate and is one of the classic sites of the Mittelrhein. Boppard and Bacharach lie within the Bereich of Lorelei in the federal state of Rhineland-Palatinate, as do other key Mittelrhein villages like Kaub, Oberwesel, and Sankt Goar. Way downstream is Königwinter on the outskirts of Bonn. Here, you’ll find the tiny 20-hectare Bereich of Siebengebirge, the final stretch of the Mittelrhein located in the federal state of North Rhine-Westphalia, featuring mainly loam, loess, and Greywacke soils.

There are two Bereiche (districts) within the Mittelrhein Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Loreley and Siebengebirge.

[Mittelrhein Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mittelrhein-producers/)
### Mosel: Winding Slopes of Slate
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-winding-slopes-of-slate/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:27:55.000Z
Barely of drinking age and completely clueless, I remember a bottle of Maximin Grünhäuser Kabinett being one of the first wines that caught my attention. Thinking back, it was the ornate Grünhäuser label affixed to the tall, slender green bottle and the impact of the zippy, sweet flavor on the tongue that would change my trajectory in wine and my ongoing obsession with Riesling. Herr Carl von Schubert, danke schön.

### Mosel Facts

Hectares under vine

8,287 (2025)

Climate

Cool, northern continental climate

Soils

Devonian slate in the steep sites and sandy, gravelly soil in the flatlands of the middle Mosel Valley; shell-limestone (chalky soils) in the upper Mosel Valley

Varieties

\[white 91% · red 9%\]: Riesling (62.4%), Müller-Thurgau (9%), Elbling (5%), Pinot Blanc (4.3%) and Pinot Noir (5%) (2022)

Bereiche 6

Moseltor, Obermosel, Saar, Ruwer, Bernkastel, Burg Cochem

Einzellagen 524

Scharzhofberg, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten, Bernkasteler Doctor, Karthäuserhofberg, Ockfener Bockstein, Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg

The wines alone are transportive, with their low alcohol, electrifying acidity, and ripe, apple-laden flavors, balanced by varying degrees of residual sugar; nowhere else on earth produces wines like those of Germany's Mosel Valley. No other wine region looks like the Mosel either—a picturesque valley formed by volcanic eruptions about 15 million years ago, with vertically ascending vines, often individually staked in shards of colorful Devonian slate warmed by the sun reflecting from the serpentine Mosel River below.

Originating at 735 meters above sea level in the Vosges, the Mosel River flows for 303 km through France, forming a 35-km border between Luxembourg and Germany, and continuing another 206 km from Perl to Koblenz, where it joins the Rhine. The longest tributary of the Rhine, with its own tributaries, the Saar and the Ruwer, makes several hairpin turns, exposing cliff faces which range from 30° to 68° steepness. The valley cut into the Rheinisches Schiefergebirge (Rhenish Slate Mountains or Rheinish Massif) tells you all you need to know about Mosel soils.

I once asked Ernie Loosen what was underneath the slate, and he gave me a look that suggested my sommelier school should've held me back a year or two. "It's all just slate!" Ernie said. A trained geologist might pick that statement apart. Still, as far as the vines are concerned, Mosel vine roots anchor themselves in slate formed during the Devonian period, around 400 million years ago. The naming of this period comes from Devonshire, England, where British geologists first studied its rocks.

If you attempt to climb to the sundial built by Jodocus Prüm in 1843 on the precipitously steep Wehlener Sonnenuhr, you will do so at your own peril. The gray-blue slate breaks away from your feet and is extremely loose on a dry day, let alone a cold, frosty November morning during harvest. On the steepest cliffs, work is by hand, with many vines still individually staked using Bogrebenerziehung (bow-shaped vine training). About 1500 working hours are needed to cultivate one hectare on the Mosel, compared to 200 hours in the easily mechanized vineyards typical of regions like Rheinhessen.

Like the Ahr, ungrafted vines are still commonplace in the Mosel. These ungrafted vines (wurzelecht in German) persist because slate limits phylloxera's ability to spread and survive. As a result, one will encounter old vines (Alte Reben) of 50, 70, or even 100+ years of age, which is a godsend for the Mosel grower, already burdened by back-breaking manual labor, looking to avoid replanting as long as the vine is healthy and still productive.

The Romans conquered the region around 50 BCE, and one of the Roman Empire's capital cities, Trier, was founded in 17 BCE. Vine planting soon followed, though it was not Riesling but Elbling, an ancient variety with origins in the Rhine Valley, now with fewer than 600 hectares planted, mainly in the Upper Mosel and in neighboring Luxembourg. The Romans cleared the steep slopes near Trier, trained vines on individual stakes, and produced water-fresh wines that in many ways have remained the same for over 2000 years.

In 1786, Clemens Wenzeslaus, elector and archbishop of Trier, decreed the planting of Riesling throughout the territory because it thrived on steep slate cliffs. By 1910, Riesling accounted for 88% of total plantings on the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, as it was then known. Following the 2007 harvest, the authorities removed the designations Saar and Ruwer from the original name; the region is now known simply as Mosel. As of 2022, Riesling accounts for 62.4% of vineyard land in the Mosel, the highest concentration of any region in Germany.

At the beginning of the 19th century, Napoleon secularized ecclesiastical estates, and the Napoleonic Code led to the creation of smallholdings for many growers. Thus, a situation not unlike Burgundy arose. The famous 3.26-hectare Bernkasteler Doctor, for example, has five owners and currently six producers (the 0.26-hectare plot owned by Heilig-Geist-Stiftung leases to two producers: Markus Molitor and Schloss Lieser). Cross the bridge to the other side of the Mosel, and you will find Moselland eG in Kues, the largest wine-growing cooperative in Germany with 2,100 member growers producing roughly 20% to 25% of all wine from the Mosel region. While the hobbyist winegrower is in decline, the cooperative remains an essential player in the Mosel business structure.

The yearly auctions of the Grosser Ring/VDP.Mosel and the Bernkasteler Ring predate the first German wine law in 1892 and today serve as a means to acquire special bottlings from top growers. Originally offered in cask, the auction wines offered today are estate-bottled, often from prized parcels or cellar selections. It's interesting to taste and experience these wines, and neat for collectors or sommeliers to claim an exclusive bottling. Auction wines have never excited me in the same way terroir does, say, in a great GG, so to each their own.

Besides the Rheingau, the Mosel is the other German wine region with a tradition of nobly sweet Auslese, Beerenauslese, TBA, and Eisweine. It varies by vintage, but the Mosel remains the sole German wine region that produces more off-dry and sweet wines than dry ones, around 60%. Egon Müller's 2003 Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese remains the all-time most expensive 750ml bottle of German wine with a hammer price of €14,566 at the VDP.Mosel Auction in Trier. For this taster, a dry estate Riesling from Molitor or Fritz Haag is almost as thrilling. The Mosel does it all.

There are six Bereiche (districts) within the Mosel Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Moseltor, Obermosel, Saar, Ruwertal, Bernkastel, and Burg Cochem.

### Moseltor

### Obermosel

### Saar

“The wine for before sport, during sport, and after sport.”

\- Martin Foradori, Dr. Fischer

"Saar" stems from the Celtic word Sara (streaming water), and that's what it is: a shallow river that rises from the Vosges and flows northward from France to Germany, where the Saar empties into the Mosel at Konz. It's the last 12 kilometers of the Mosel's largest tributary, where you'll find a series of steep, south-facing vineyards that read like a Grand-award winning wine list: Saarburger Rausch, Ayler Kupp, Kanzemer Altenberg, and, of the most famous of them all, Scharzhofberg.

In his classic book, The Wines of Germany, Frank Schoonmaker wrote of Saar wines, "There is a combination of qualities that I can best describe as indescribable." Saar wines taste distinctly different from those of the Middle Mosel due to their elevation, proximity to the Hunsrück Mountains, and cooler climate. The wines are generally lighter, intensely aromatic, and often come with piercing acidity.

Like the rest of the Mosel, Riesling is a dominant variety, and Devonian slate characterizes all the best vineyards. There are pockets of volcanic diabase, most famously at Saarburger Rausch, and reddish iron layers of Rotliegend in several sites, including the Scharzhofberg and Kanzemer Altenberg. For a survey of Saar's top vineyard sites, I recommend the VDP's online tool: VDP.Vineyard.Online, which identifies the vineyards classified as VDP.Grosse Lage, aka the grand crus.

Starting way upriver in Serrig, the monopole site is Schloss Saarstein. Greywacke soil with slate, this steep vineyard overlooking the Saar climbs to 220 meters of elevation, and the wines have accentuated acidity and long-aging potential. The next village, Saarburg, is home to the Saarburger Rausch, a well-protected vineyard overlooking the charming town. Devonian slate, combined with volcanic basalt (diabase), gives these wines a distinct character. Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken and Dr. Wagner are the producers to know here.

In Ockfen is the famous amphitheater-shaped Ockfener Bockstein, a classic Saar site for cultivating Devonian slate since Roman times; it is capable of producing some of the Saar's finest wines. The Bockstein has many owners, and Von Othegraven makes outstanding wines here. The Ayler Kupp is a 50-hectare hillside of several historic parcels, bottled separately by Peter Lauer: Unterstenberg, Stirn, Kern, and Neuenberg.

At this point in our journey towards the Mosel, the Saar appears to split due to a manufactured canal between Biebelhausen and Hamm, creating an artificial island in arguably the filet section of the Saar. Here, perched above the Saar, is the impressive Van Volxem winery, with holdings of several VDP.Grosse Lage sites throughout the Saar Valley. Wawern lies in a side valley to the west, where Van Volxem has holdings in Ritterpfad and Goldberg. It's also where you'll find Von Othegraven's monopole: Großer Herrenberg.

Skipping to the other side of the island, we've now arrived at Scharzhofberg, an Ortsteil belonging to the village of Wiltigen and Germany's most famous vineyard. While several excellent VDP estates, such as Von Hövel, von Kesselstatt, and Van Volxem, have holdings here, Scharzhofberg is directly linked to Egon Müller. Weathered slate with high iron content, good aeration, and perfect exposure, the Egon Müller Scharzhofberg gives legendary wines with incredible longevity and jaw-dropping prices at auction.

Flowing downstream, the final bends in the river give us the spectacularly steep Gottesfuß (Van Volxem, von Kesselstatt), Braune Kupp (Le Gallais/Egon Müller), Wiltigen Kupp (Von Othegraven), and last but not least the Kanzemer Altenberg. The Altenberg, "as steep as the Matterhorn," as Von Othegraven's owner, Günther Jauch, likes to say, is an exceptional site with iron-laden sections of weathered Devonian slate.

### Ruwertal

### Bernkastel

### Burg Cochem

[Mosel Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-producers/)
### Nahe: Exquisitely Tuned
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-exquisitely-tuned/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:33:23.000Z
When Ian Jamison’s German Wines came out in 1990, Müller-Thurgau was still the dominant variety in the Nahe, with 23.2% of the vineyard area. Riesling was in second place at 12% (his figures were from 1988). Unless you’ve been following Nahe wines long enough to observe this evolution, it’s a shocking statistic given the number of benchmark Riesling producers clustered here today. These include Dönnhoff, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Schlossgut Diel, Emrich-Schönleber, and Gut Hermannsberg, all first-rate VDP estates whose GG Rieslings I’ll often rate among the best in Wiesbaden each August. Riesling is now in the first position in the Nahe, and rightly so. Jamison writes, “It is perfectly possible to persuade yourself that the River Nahe produces the finest Riesling wines in the Rheinland and, therefore, in the world.” For this taster, no further persuasion is necessary.

### Nahe Facts

Hectares under vine

4,166 (2025)

Climate

mild, low frost and low rainfall

Soils

Quartzite and slate soils on the lower Nahe; porphyry, melaphyre, and red sandstone on the middle Nahe; weathered soils and clay overlays of sandstone, loess, and loam near Bad Kreuznach

Varieties

\[white 76.2%, red 23.8%\]: Riesling (29%), Müller-Thurgau (12%), Pinot Gris (8.2%), Pinot Blanc (7.4%), Dornfelder (9.7%), Spätburgunder (6.7%)

Bereich

Nahetal

Einzellagen 310

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube, Königsfels, Felsenberg, Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen, Dorsheimer Goldloch

The Nahe became an independent wine region in 1971\. Before that, wines from the river Nahe were labeled simply as Rhein wines, and, as Frank Schoonmaker writes in The Wines of Germany, “All Nahe wines, being more akin to Rhine than to Mosel, are shipped in brown bottles.” It’s essential to clarify that Nahe wines are, stylistically speaking, not a halfway point between Mosel, Rheingau, or Rheinhessen. The wine trade (me included) has repeated this almost as frequently as “Gigondas is like a baby Châteauneuf-du-Pape!” Hey, when a sale is on the line, I get it, but there’s no reason to “sell” Nahe wines this way, not when they’re some of the finest in Germany. There is indeed Riesling from steep slate slopes in the Nahe, and like the Mosel, Nahe producers can make stunning Prädikatswein, but Nahe wines do not smell or taste like Mosel, or Rheingau, or Rheinhessen. Nahe is unique, and much of its uniqueness comes from the soil.

The Nahe has the widest variety of soils in Germany due to 400 million years of geological upheaval. Schist, volcanic rock, loess, clay, and limestone are among the 180 or so assumed soil types in the Nahe wine region. Britta Korrell of Weingut Korrell in Bosenheim told me that the Nahe earned the nickname das Probiertstub’chen (the tasting room of Germany) because it has so many different soils, varieties, and microclimates. Protected from the cold winds by the high Hünsruck mountains, the area enjoys mild temperatures, abundant sunshine, and very little rain, creating an excellent climate for the vine. Although administratively, a single Bereich (Nahetal) covers the entire Weinanbaugebiet. Practically speaking, the Nahe region is divided into three subdivisions along its 116-kilometer river: lower, middle, and upper. Generally, the Upper Nahe vineyards are cooler, while the Middle and Lower Nahe get progressively warmer, and harvest occurs earlier in Lower Nahe than in the Middle or Upper.

There is one Bereich (district) within the Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Nahetal. However, the Nahe is often viewed in three distinct zones: Lower, Middle, and Upper Nahe.

### Lower Nahe

Beginning at Bingen, where the Nahe joins the Rhein, to Bad Kreuznach is the Lower Nahe. Directly across the Rhein from Bingen is the Rheingau’s Rüdesheimer Berg. Upriver, several famous wine villages are found, starting with Münster-Sarmsheim (home of the excellent VDP.Weingut Kruger-Rumpf) and Rümmelsheim/Burg Layen (home of Diel). There’s grey Devonian slate at Münster-Sarmsheimer Im Pitterberg, then loam, clay, and gravel at a trio of superb Grosse Lage sites in Burg Layen (technically belonging to Dorsheim): Pittermännchen, Goldloch, and Burgberg. The next grouping of Grosse Lagen in the Lower Nahe is at Bad Kreuznach, Nahe’s commercial center. Kahlenberg and Krötenpfuhl (produced by Dönnhoff) feature loam, loess, and gravel, and, off to the side, the valley in Wallhausen, Felseneck (Prinz Salm) has green schist. By the way, Bad Kreuznach is also home to Weingut Korrell (Bosenheim) and their excellent Paradies vineyard with shell limestone and marl. A final note about the charming spa town of Bad Kreuznach is to mention the Anheuser name; the same Anheuser family (cousins) as St Louis’ Anheuser-Busch are wine producers here.

### Middle Nahe

Five kilometers upriver from Bad Kreuznach are Bad Münster and Traisen, where massive porphyry rocks are both a tourist attraction and a gate to the Middle Nahe. The steep, volcanic Traisner Bastei is the first significant site, then Rotenfels, then Mühlberg and Steinberg (both produced by VDP.Weingut Dr. Crusius), before slate sets in at Norheimer Kirscheck and Dellchen. Neighboring VDP estates Dönnhoff and Gut Hermannsberg exploit the vineyards at Niederhausen and Oberhausen. Grey slate and limestone make Hermannshöhle one of the most highly reputed sites in the Nahe. At the same time, Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg and Kupfergrube did not even exist before the State Domain created them (with the help of convict labor) in 1901\. These volcanic sites and the top-class Oberhausen Brücke are some of Germany’s best.

### Upper Nahe

After Schloßböckelheim, I’ll point out Königsfels and In den Felsen, which make their way into Korrell’s Von den Ersten Lagen bottling along with the previously mentioned Rotenfels and Felsenberg. At Bockenau (Schäfer-Fröhlich) and Monzingen (Emrich-Schönleber) are Felseneck with Devonian slate and Monzingener Frühlingsplätzchen with red slate. These are the coolest vineyards in the Nahe and arguably some of the best. The Nahe wine region ends at the wine village of Martinstein.

[Nahe Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/nahe-producers/)
### Rheingau: Historic, Venerable, Rejuvenated
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-historic-venerable-rejuvenated/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:37:45.000Z
Rheingau wasn’t the first German wine region I set foot in so many years ago. That distinction belongs to the Pfalz by way of Alsace, where I’ll never forget the jolting contrast of tasting in Müller-Catoir’s elegant salon followed by a lunch of sow’s stomach at a nearby roadhouse. My introductory tour of Germany’s vineyards continued through the Rheinhessen and Nahe before arriving at the dock of Bingen am Rhein. Bingen lies at the confluence of the Nahe and Rhine Rivers. It is an important transportation point that explains why the Celts and Romans settled here. A car ferry will transport you and your vehicle across the broad Rhine River from Bingen to the charming village of Rüdesheim. It’s a dramatic way to arrive in Rheingau, one of Germany’s most historic and revered wine regions.

### Rheingau Facts

Hectares under vine

3,117 (2025)

Climate

Protected by the Taunus mountain and the forest above, the Rheingau has mild winters and warm summers

Soils

heavy tertiary marl soils; slate, quartzite, pebbles and sandstone; Clay; deep, mostly calcareous soils of sandy loess or loess; medium and deep phyllite schists

Varieties

2019 \[white 85.6%, red 14.4%\]: Riesling (77.7%), Spätburgunder (12.2%), plus small percentages of other grapes like Weissburgunder, Chardonnay

Bereich

Johannisberg

Einzellagen 129

Assmanshausen Höllenberg, Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg, Schloss Johannisberg, Hattenheim Steinberg, Kiedrich Gräfenberg, Erbach Marcobrunn, Hochheim Hölle

Rheingau claims to be the birthplace of Riesling, which has been planted here since at least 1435, but the Romans cultivated vines on its slopes long before that. Charlemagne encouraged vine plantings on the Rüdesheimer Berg, and the Benedictines and Cistercians tended vines at Johannisberg and Steinberg in the Middle Ages. We can thank the monasteries for some of today’s German wine labeling terms. Cabinet first appeared in 1712 at Kloster Eberbach, indicating wines of exceptional quality. Schloss Johannisberg asserts that a new wine style called Spätlese was born by chance in 1775 due to a messenger’s delay. Aristocratic estates like Schloss Schönborn and Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern persist, but like the healing waters of Wiesbaden, a new generation of vintners is rejuvenating the Rheingau scene.

Fresh off the ferry, my first appointment in the Rheingau was with Heinrich Breuer of Weingut Georg Breuer in Rüdesheim. This address seemed a logical place to start exploring Rheingau’s new wave. Breuer was at the forefront of a dry wine movement in the mid-1980s that influenced other producers in the region and inspired a return to German wine as it was in the early 20th century: dry and with emphasis on its great terroirs. A case in point is the thirty-or-so VDP.Rheingau members and their adherence to the association’s dry wine quality standards and vineyard classification. Like Weingut Kaufmann and Peter Jakob Kühn, many of its producers are fully engaged in biodynamics, while young and exciting producers like Eva Fricke draw attention to some of Rheingau’s forgotten corners. It’s time to return to Rheingau, where the renown of German wine began.

There is one Bereich (district) within the Rheingau Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Johannisberg.

[Rheingau Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheingau-producers/)
### Rheinhessen: Red Slopes, Limestone Hills
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-red-slopes-limestone-hills/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:43:02.000Z
Open the pages to Rheinhessen in almost any German wine book, and you’ll find mention of Liebfraumilch. I even hesitate to write the “L” word here except to make the point that in 2023, drawing attention to Rheinhessen’s Liebfraumilch past is a little like revisiting Austria’s 1985 wine scandal. These events are so far behind us that they’re practically irrelevant. Both are historically significant and essential catalysts for change, but Rheinhessen now leads in Germany’s wine quality sphere, and Austria is undoubtedly a world-class wine producer. Its recent history is far more interesting than the 1980s, when simple, sweet Müller-Thurgau-based blends accounted for 50% of all German wine exports. It’s time to look at Rheinhessen from a fresh perspective.

### Rheinhessen Facts

Hectares under vine

27,657 (2025)

Climate

mild, sunny, and dry

Soils

loess, limestone, Rotliegend

Varieties

Riesling 18.1%, Müller-Thurgau 15.2%, Dornfelder 12.5%, Silvaner 7.8%, Grauburgunder 7.3%, and Spätburgunder 5.5%

Bereiche 3

Nierstein, Bingen, Wonnegau

Einzellagen 414

Rothenberg, Pettenthal, Hipping, Morstein, Scharlachberg, Hubacker, LIebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück

Thinking back to my earliest days of sommelier study, I remember Tim Gaiser, MS, stating, “Nackenheimer Rothenberg is one of the very best vineyards in all of Germany,” a strong statement since most of what I had studied up to that point was Mosel wine. Anyone reading this from outside the US must understand that we tend to be very Mosel-centric when it comes to German wine here in the States. One of my first “ah-ha!” moments with wine was a bottle of Maximin Grünhauser Riesling from the Ruwer, a tiny tributary of the Mosel. From then on, I decided I loved German wine and began reading about it. I was in my late 20s when I joined the Court of Master Sommeliers program, so it took me about 8 years to learn about Rothenberg. As I said, we tend to be very Mosel-centric in the US.

What’s wild about this is that Rheinhessen, with 27,312 hectares (2022), is Germany’s largest wine region. It’s also one of the most exciting and dynamic of Germany’s 13 Weinanbaugebiete, with several leading estates (including those whom many consider Germany’s top dry wine producers): Klaus-Peter-Keller, Wittmann, Battenfeld-Spanier, and Kühling-Gillot. What’s interesting about that grouping is that only Kühling-Gillot has vineyards anywhere near the Rothenberg on Rheinhessen’s Rheinfront, aka the Roter Hang (pictured above). The “red slope” near Nierstein is Rheinhessen’s classic quality area, a five-kilometer stretch of vineyards on steep slopes facing the Rhein.

Many references, even the excellent VDP.Weinbergonline mentions the soil, Roter Schiefer (red slate), which gives Roter Hang its name. I recently asked Johannes Hasselbach from Gunderloch, the classic producer of Roter Hang and Rothenberg, and he clarified that it’s Rotliegend, a red-colored rock formed during the Rotliegend period of Earth’s history from calcareous claystone, siltstones, and sandstones, red from finely distributed iron in the soil. The concept that it is Schiefer (slate) is that it’s been compressed or “slated” over time, but the notion that it’s similar to the red slate of Ürziger Würzgarten, for example, is not quite the right idea.

Nevertheless, the Roter Hang is home to some of Rheinhessen’s most distinctive wines. Not only is there Nackenheimer Rothenberg, but its southern neighbor, Pettenthal, has to rank among Germany’s strongest terroirs, along with Rheinhessen’s Morstein (which we will get to later), Mosel’s Erdener Prälat, and Württemberg’s Lämmler. Then there’s Hipping and Ölberg, all of these classified as Große Lage in the eyes of the VDP. All of this is to say that of Rheinhessen’s 414 Einzellagen (single vineyards), these four sites on the Rheinfront are classics for a reason. Rheinhessen subdivides into three Bereiche (districts), and the Roter Hang constitutes just a tiny percentage of one of those districts: Nierstein. Incidentally, Germany’s oldest documented single vineyard is the walled Niersteiner Glöck. Move inland from the Rhein, and much of Nierstein sits on a plateau of rolling limestone hills.

The other two Bereiche are Bingen, which covers Rheinhessen’s northwest, near the Nahe, and Wonnegau in the south. Bingen’s Scharlachberg is a historically important, if sometimes underperforming, red-slate site. With holdings here, the VDP Nahe estate Kruger-Rumpf is undoubtedly one of Scharlachberg’s best producers. The Wonnegau is the southern Rheinhessen, with towns like Worms, Alzey, Westhofen, and Flörsheim-Dalsheim. It is the home of high-output tracts of plonk and some of Germany’s most outstanding wines today. Here we must again mention the name Klaus-Peter Keller and his holdings in Flörsheim-Dalsheimer Hubacker, Westhofener Kirchspiel, and Westhofener Morstein, the latter an ancient vineyard with heavy clay marl and limestone producing Spätburgunder so pungent and distinctive that I’d have to place it in the same category as Richebourg in terms of Pinot Noirs with compelling and singular identities.

This post is one of my more extended introductions to a region, and I’ve only mentioned Riesling and Spätburgunder. I would be remiss not to say that Rheinhessen produces 71.7% white wine and 28.3% red wine, with Riesling accounting for 18.1% of the total vineyard area. Müller-Thurgau remains significant at 15.2%, followed by Dornfelder, Silvaner, Grauburgunder, and Spätburgunder. I will expand briefly on Silvaner, as it was Rheinhessen’s dominant grape variety in the 19th century, and surprisingly there’s still more Silvaner planted in Rheinhessen than in Franken. It’s also here that Professor Scheu first developed Scheurebe and other crossings, which ate up Silvaner areas in the 20th century in favor of higher-yielding varieties. Thankfully, Silvaner remains an important Rheinhessen variety, and producers like Kai Schätzel and Weingut Thörle churn out superb Silvaner from top vineyard sites.

There are three Bereiche (districts) within the Rheinhessen Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Nierstein, Bingen, and Wonnegau.

[Rheinhessen Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/rheinhessen-producers/)
### Saale-Unstrut: Viticulture on the Edge
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-viticulture-on-the-edge/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:53:40.000Z
Saale-Unstrut lies at the 51st parallel and is the northernmost wine region in Germany. Like its East German neighbor Sachsen, the peak of viticulture in Saale-Unstrut occurred in the 16th century, with 10,000 hectares under vine before the Thirty Years' War. The area under vine ebbed and flowed over the centuries amid wars, annexations, and tariffs, coming to a head at the end of the 19th century with mildew blights and, ultimately, phylloxera in 1887\. By 1919, only 100 hectares of vineyard remained in Saale-Unstrut.

### Saale-Unstrut Facts

Hectares under vine

868 (2025)

Climate

continental with cold winters, hot summers, and strong temperature fluctuations between day and night.

Soils

weathered shell-limestone, colored sandstone, loess, loam, and marine bituminous marl (Kupferschiefer)

Varieties

Grape varieties 2019 (white 74.7%, red 25.3%): Müller-Thurgau (15.2%), Pinot Blanc (13.7%), Riesling (8.9%), Dornfelder (6.8%), Bacchus (6.4%), Silvaner (6.1%)

Bereiche 3

Neuenburg, Thueringen, Naumberg

Einzellagen 34

Freyburger Edelacker

After the two World Wars and the founding of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR), winegrowing in the Saale and Unstrut valleys fell behind the regions of western Germany. Quality plant material and modern equipment were difficult to acquire, and cooperatives produced most of the wine. Growers with small holdings could continue to make wine for personal consumption and sell a few bottles to the local population, a rare source of wealth for those lucky enough to own a few rows of vines. After reunification, some hobby vintners became full-time winegrowers, and much redevelopment, investment, and expertise reinvigorated the region.

The Rotkäppchen Sektkellerei, which became Rotkäppchen-Mumm in 2002, is a massive facility in Freyburg producing a mind-boggling 330,000,000 bottles of sparkling wine yearly. It is one of the few former state-owned companies in the DDR that survived the early 1990s reorganization in eastern Germany and is a thriving enterprise today. Other cooperative cellars remain essential, but small producers lead the quality charge in Saale-Unstrut today. In 2023, the region has three VDP member estates: Pawis, Böhme & Töchter, and Weingut Hey, each producing an outstanding range of wines.

Vines grow mainly on south-facing terraces facing the two rivers that give the region its name: the Saale and the Unstrut. Deep frosts in winter or late spring are common, so viticulture is only possible in protected locations. With around 500 mm of precipitation annually, the region is one of the driest in Germany. It receives about 1,600 hours of sunshine a year. Yields are naturally low at around 50 hl/ha. Most vineyards are in Saxony-Anhalt, with a smattering of vines in Thuringia and a mere five hectares in Brandenburg. With 798 hectares of vines, Saale-Unstrut is Germany’s fifth-smallest wine region, larger than the Ahr but significantly smaller than the Rheingau.

To counter the challenging climatic conditions, growers experiment with many different vinifera, crossings, and PiWi varieties. Around 30 grape varieties are used today, with Müller-Thurgau as the most widely planted variety, accounting for 15% of the total vineyard area. The mere mention of Müller-Thurgau will make some in the American wine trade roll their eyes. Still, I have yet to taste a better Müller-Thurgau from Germany than that produced by VDP Weingut Pawis in Saale-Unstrut, a wine of lean but ripe fruit and mineral depth with lovely aromatic precision. That’s how I’d describe many of today’s best Saale-Unstrut wines, whether from Weissburgunder, Riesling, Bacchus, or Silvaner.

Pawis is one of the wineries with holdings in the Freyburger Edelacker, a terraced and south-facing site with weathered Fossil-limestone and loess. This historic terraced site has been cultivated since the Middle Ages, and engravings from centuries of farmers are etched into the terrace walls. Edelacker is classified as a Grosse Lage in the VDP’s vineyard classification. Other well-known sites are the Karsdorf Hohe Gräte, a monopole of Lützkendorf, and Gosecker Decantenberg, a 3.5-hectare monopole of the historic Kloster Pforta with pure red sandstone and walled terraces.

There are three Bereiche (districts) within the Saale-Unstrut Weinanbaugebiete (wine region): Neuenburg, Thueringen, and Naumberg.

[Saale-Unstrut Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/saale-unstrut-producers/)
### Sachsen: Beauty Awakened
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-beauty-awakened/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T17:58:54.000Z
Sachsen sits above the 51st parallel in former East Germany and is one of Europe’s most northerly wine-growing areas. Its 493 hectares of vines along the Elbe produce just 0.3% of all German wine. 77.7 hectares are grown on Steillage, steeply terraced vineyards with inclines greater than 30%. Most of these old terraces are between Dresden and Meissen and the wine town Radebeul, which lies in the region’s heart. The continental climate means cold winters, and early spring frost poses a constant threat. 1570 hours of sunshine during the relatively short growing season, coupled with substantial diurnal temperature shifts between day and night, give Sachsen wines their uniquely pure and mineral identity. Sachsen wines are, by and large, dry and rarely exceed 12.5% alcohol. Its climate dictates a distinctive grape mix, focusing on early-ripening white varieties such as Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Bacchus, and Goldriesling, as well as winter-hardy varieties like Riesling. Around 18% of its vines are red, and recent tastings confirm that Spätburgunder has high potential in a region benefiting from warming temperatures.

### Sachsen Facts

Hectares under vine

531 (2025)

Climate

Continental

Soils

granite, sandstone, loess, clay, sand

Varieties

82% white, including Müller-Thurgau, Weißburgunder, Silvaner, Traminer, Gutedel, Riesling, Ruländer, Elbling, Portuguiser, Spätburgunder

Bereiche 2

Elbtal, Elstertal

Einzellagen 22

Schloss Proschwitz (monopole), Kloster Heilig Kreuz, Radebeul Goldener Wagen, Radebeul Steinrücken

Viticulture was first documented here in 1161, and vineyard expansion along the Elbe peaked in the 16th century with 5000 hectares before the 30 years war. After Phylloxera and two World Wars, just 60 hectares remained. From 1955 to 1990, Sachsen expanded from 200 to over 1000 hectares. One reason for this expansion is that wine became a valuable commodity to trade for other goods under the Deutsche Demokratische Republik. It also became a rare source of wealth for those lucky enough to own a few rows of vines. During the DDR, Dresden’s professional class might also have been weekend Winzers, tending their collectivized vineyards and staying in their small Häuschen before returning to their city jobs on Monday morning. Even today, 96% of Sachsen’s vineyards are tended by Kleinwinzern, each with less than 200 m2 of vines. Since reunification, land under vine has declined, but wine quality has improved as new plant material replaces the old, vine training modernizes, and winemaking skills continue to improve.

The current Sachsen winemakers are dedicated, ambitious, and Geisenheim-trained, churning out excellent wines of chiseled mineral precision. The classic Sachsen estate is the Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth, with its (now) well-tended terraces and immaculate palace grounds. Wackerbarth produces the full range of Sachsen varieties and is a significant producer of wines from Radebeuler Goldener Wagen, one of Sachsen’s 22 Einzellagen and certainly one of its best. There are currently three VDP-member estates in Sachsen: Schloss Proschwitz, Klaus Zimmerling, and its newest member Martin Schwarz. The local population consumes most of the wine, and when I find the occasional Sachsen outside of the region, it’s usually Schloss Proschwitz. Its 100 hectares near Meissen belong to Dr. Georg Prinz zur Lippe, who resurrected Proschwitz after reunification.

Proschwitz has built itself a reputation for mineral Spätburgunder, and other Sachsen producers are as well. A Pinot by Master of Wine Janek Schumann was beautifully made, with seamless oak integration and a straight, mineral profile. Another standout Pinot came from Friedrich Aust in Radebeul. Aust’s cellar is undergoing a significant renovation, and dinner enjoyed amid construction took nothing away from the experience of a memorable 2018 Spätburgunder, an achievement of purity, lightness, and aroma. Having just tasted a single Martin Schwarz wine at the time of this writing, I find his Crossover to be a serious white wine blend with an almost Friulian-like balance of flavor and texture. Finally, I must mention Klaus Zimmerling, whose organically farmed wines I came to know while taking a language course in Dresden some years ago. The Zimmerling wines are instantly recognizable for their artful labels and are sold in 50cl bottles. I haven't asked, but I assume the small size is related to his philosophy for low yields. Klaus Zimmerling wines are serious, ripe, and textured.

There are two Bereiche (districts) within the Sachsen Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Elbtal and Elstertal.

[Sachsen Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/sachsen-producers/)
### Württemberg: Oh, those Industrious Swabians!
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-oh-those-industrious-swabians/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T18:01:28.000Z
### Württemberg Facts

Hectares under vine

10,694 (2025)

Climate

mild, with the Black Forest and the Swabian Jura giving natural shelter and the river valleys moderating temperatures

Soils

a diverse mix including shell limestone, keuper, marl, loess, and clay

Varieties

\[white 37%, red 63%\]: Riesling (1,995 ha), Lemberger (1,661 ha), Trollinger (1,614 ha), Pinot Noir (1,242 ha), Pinot Meunier (1,030 ha), Müller-Thurgau, Kerner; red varieties account for 6,721 ha

Bereiche 6

Württembergisch Unterland, Remstal-Stuttgart, Kocher-Jagst-Tauber, Oberer Neckar, Württembergischer Bodensee, Bayerischer Bodensee

Einzellagen

210

[Württemberg Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/wuerttemberg-producers/)
### German Wine History
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-history/
Last updated: 2026-08-31T18:59:47.000Z
Around 16 BC, Trier became a massive Roman metropolis. The Romans first planted vineyards in Germany during the 1st Century AD, shortly after establishing military garrisons along the Rhine and Mosel rivers. Austere but safer than water, Roman soldiers were entitled to a daily ration of wine, more efficiently supplied by grapes grown on the frontier. Massive stone wine presses found in Piesport and Erden date to the 3rd and 4th centuries AD. From 276-282 AD, Roman Emperor Probus lifted a ban on planting new vineyards in the provinces. The Roman poet Ausonius wrote in his poem Mosella around 370 AD about "sloping hillsides green with the vines of Bacchus." Winegrowing in Ancient Rome's Germania was of great importance.

After Rome's fall in 476 AD, Europe experienced frequent conflict and despair for the next 500 years, while the influence of Germanic kingdoms, monasticism, and the Catholic Church grew. The thirst for German wine in Medieval Britain was greater than for French wine, and vineyards along the Rhine expanded rapidly. Monasteries continued to plant vines during these so-called Dark Ages, and great Benedictine abbeys emerged as custodians of winegrowing and winemaking know-how.

The King of the Franks and Europe's father, Charlemagne, spent much of his reign at war, conducting over 50 military campaigns and, among other conquests, conquering the Saxons in modern-day Germany after a brutal 32-year war in 804 AD. He also founded schools, preserved Latin manuscripts, and standardized weights, measures, and writing. There are numerous legends surrounding Charlemagne and wine, symbolized by his construction of a palace on the Rhine at Ingelheim.

Folklore suggests that, from Ingelheim, Charlemagne observed the snow melting first on the hills of Johannisberg and the Rüdesheimer Berg, and ordered vines to be planted there (the same story persists in Burgundy about the Corton-Charlemagne hill, and something about a stained beard). He also enforced strict laws of wine hygiene and commerce. The varied iterations of wine taverns in German-speaking Europe, which permit direct sales of wine from producer to consumer, are direct descendants of Charlemagne's decree allowing winegrowers to hang a branch signifying wine for sale.

By the early tenth century, Germany produced the most and the best wine in northern Europe. The Church granted special status to Germany's privileged wine villages. These Winzerdorf, walled and often situated along rivers, enjoyed an unusual degree of independence. Bernkastel on the Mosel and Riquewihr in Alsace are two such examples of Winzerdorf in the Rhineland. By 1226, the entire Rheingau was cleared, planted with vines, and wholly ruled by the Church. Rheinish wine became a great luxury in England, and the boom in winegrowing continued into the next few centuries, coming to a head with deteriorating weather and the Thirty Years' War.

The Thirty Years' War (1618–1648) was fought primarily in Central Europe, within the territories of the Holy Roman Empire (mostly modern-day Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic). While nearly every significant European power was involved—including France, Sweden, Spain, and Denmark—the vast majority of the actual combat, destruction, and loss of life occurred on German soil. The war decimated vineyards, press-houses, cellars, and the wine trade's infrastructure.

The winegrower's priority after such a destructive period is to have a crop. Quantity, not quality, drove winegrowing in Germany after the Thirty Years' War, so it's unlikely that ancient Riesling, that wine grape par excellence but demanding of site and soil, was the first choice for replantation. Riesling likely originated in the Upper Rhine, possibly specifically in the Rheingau. An ancient crossing of Gouais Blanc (German: Weißer Heunisch) with a close but extinct relative of Savagnin (German: Traminer), or Gouais Blanc x (Savagnin x Vitis Sylvestris, a native wild grape of the Rhine Valley). Its exact genetic origins remain unknown.

Winegrowers likely included Riesling in a "mix set" of varieties that comprised the field blends typical of the time. However, history has given it a precise birthday: March 13, 1435, the date recorded in a cellar log in Rüsselsheim. An administrator for Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen purchased six Riesling vines. The document records a payment of 22 gold coins for cuttings of "Rießlingen."

With its origins in the Rhine, Riesling's qualities were well known in Germany by the mid-17th century. However, Riesling's dominance began to take hold in 1716, when the Prince-Abbot Constantin bought what remained of the old Benedictine monastery of Johannisberg in the Rheingau. The Prince-Abbot rebuilt the Schloss and replanted its south-facing slope exclusively with Riesling. In the 1760s, the Cistercian monks at Kloster Eberbach planted their Steinberg vineyard with Riesling and enclosed it with a wall like its Burgundian cousin, Clos de Vougeot. Meanwhile, the Prince-Bishops of Würzburg focused on Silvaner, a variety better suited to the lime-rich soil of Franconia.

With a recovering economy and population growth in the 18th century, vines found their way back to the steep slopes of the Rhine and Mosel Valleys, and producers would allow their wines more time in Germany's cold cellars to develop. "The use of sulphur, the 'Dutch match,' was routine by this period to prevent the wines from fermenting completely dry," wrote Hugh Johnson in The Story of Wine. Whether it was cold cellars or the use of sulfur, whatever style was in fashion at this time, sweeter or drier, is of some debate. Nevertheless, the weather had improved, and with it, the spread of Riesling, and its ripening period extended. The legends of late-harvested Riesling were soon to come.

The wine cognoscenti and their aristocratic clients in Europe would already have been familiar with a few celebrated botrytis-produced wines in the mid-18th century. Botrytis-affected Ausbruch and Tokaj from the Kingdom of Hungary, and even an occasional Rheingau Riesling, would have been produced from botrytis. Famously, a 1753 Steinberg was made entirely from Edelfaule, the German term for botrytis. Extended harvests and botrytis necessitated selections in the vineyards and cellars. At Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, a wine produced by a special selection might have been destined for the Cabinet, a cellar section reserved for exceptional wines.

In 1775, Schloss Johannisberg produced a special wine from late-harvest grapes, which comes with a historically tidy story. Permission to begin harvest at Schloss Johannisberg required approval by its owner, the Abbot of Fulda, a seven-day ride away. Manager Herr J.M. Engert sent a courier to obtain the Abbot's permission to commence harvesting, but, for unknown reasons, the courier was delayed. By the time he returned, all the grapes were rotten. When tasted in the spring, Herr Engert declared, "This 1775 wine is so extraordinary that from the eight tasters no word was heard other than—I have never had such a wine in my mouth before!" The concept of Spätlese (late-harvested) wine had been born.

The Congress of Vienna in 1815 was an important diplomatic summit held in Vienna, Austria, to "reset" the map of Europe and create a long-term peace plan following the chaotic upheaval of the Napoleonic Wars and the French Revolution. Its goals were to restore the "legitimate" royal families to their thrones (such as the Bourbons in France) and to contain France with strong "buffer states" (such as a newly enlarged Netherlands and a powerful Prussia) to prevent future French aggression. Prussia was granted the Mosel as a buffer zone, and the Mosel entered into a period of great prosperity.

With Spätlese's "discovery," Schloss Johannisberg set a trajectory for 19th-century Rheinish wine with further selections like Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Gold- or Edelbeerenauslese (precursors to the modern Trockenbeerenauslese). Soon, with special Prussian status, Moselwein too began its period of ascent, with increased plantings, population growth, and a series of outstanding vintages in the 1820s. Prussia's rise coincided with the Zollverein, a Customs Union uniting the German states, and excluding Austria, leaving Prussia as the undisputed economic leader of the German lands. \`

The 19th century saw the Zollverein and the railroad bring better Rhineland wines to major German cities. Schloss Johannisberg and Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau were late-harvesting systematically, and Schloss Johannisberg employed a grading system with different-colored wax seals. The Palatinate (Germany's Pfalz) had been freed and awakened by the French Revolution, and the Zollverein gave them an opportunity, which was solidified by a famous land-tax survey conducted by the Bavarian state in 1828\. Alsace, part of France, was excluded from the Zollverein, allowing Baden to assert itself through further plantings. In Franken, secularization took hold, and vineyards shrank, while by the 1840s, the Mosel began to thrive.

Light and acidic Mosel wines were the perfect material for the rapidly growing Sekt industry, and with improved transportation, they began to find markets outside the Mosel valley in the 1840s. Another help to the Mosel wine industry was an invention by the French chemist Jean-Antoine Chaptal in 1801\. Chaptalization became a common practice of adding sugar to unripe grapes during fermentation to increase their alcoholic strength. During the Napoleonic Wars, Chaptal's innovation helped the French wine industry survive difficult vintages. Its arrival came surprisingly late to the cold climate of the Mosel, popularized by German chemist Ludwig Gall in the 1840s, who added water alongside sugar in a process known as Gallization. Gallization saved many estates in the Mosel region during a decade of poor weather, but would become the catalyst for Germany's first wine law and centuries of debate.

In the aftermath of the Franco-Prussian War, Germany became a unified country in 1871\. The new government founded the Geisenheim Wine School in Rheingau in 1872, and 'model' State domaines in Trier and the Nahe. Just two decades later, the 'Gesetz, betreffend den Verkehr mit Wein' (Law concerning the winetrade), enacted on May 24, 1892, became the first significant piece of national legislation passed to regulate wine in the newly unified German Empire. The 1892 law was a "food safety" response to the rise of artificial wine. The law's fundamental goal was to define what could legally be called "wine" and to establish that wine must be a product of the fermentation of fresh grapes or grape juice. It strictly banned the addition of artificial colors, salicylic acid, and saccharin. Fine, but what of this controversial topic of Gallization?

The 1892 law permitted adding sugar to grape must to compensate for the naturally low sugar levels in grapes grown in Germany's cool climate. The technique was called Verbesserung (improvement). Because this was considered a customary cellar treatment, there was no requirement to disclose it on the label. At the time, there was no legal term like Naturrein (naturally pure) or Naturwein (natural wine) to indicate that a wine was unsugared. The 1892 law sought to catch "Gallized" wines that, by doing so, created a larger volume of drinkable liquid. This issue of Chaptalization or Gallization would be a sticking point, leading right up to the 1971 wine law and beyond.

At the end of the 19th century, Riesling would have been mostly dry, unless it was late-harvested, the government was making quality-minded investments, and a law that at least attempted to distinguish between artificial and natural wines was in place. Despite the shortcomings of the 1892 law, things were looking up for German wine when phylloxera hit northern Germany in 1874\. Some steep slate sites in the Mosel went unscathed, but other vine maladies like peronospora and powdery mildew caused further headaches for late 19th-century German winegrowers.

At the end of the 19th century, wine schools and grape-breeding stations began to emerge in response to these diseases, and cooperatives formed to blunt harvest fluctuations and raise overall quality. In 1910, the most quality-minded among German wine producers formed the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (Association of German Natural Wine Auctioneers). The VDNV would be the predecessor to today's VDP, though with a different set of criteria than the VDP classification in place now. Its main tenet was Naturwein, which meant specifically: wine made without Chaptalization.

1918 brought the end of World War I and the end of German wine's "golden era," when its seat at the top tables of Europe, garnering some of the highest prices paid for any wine of this era, came to a screeching halt. German wine lost its most important markets, and the world sank into a devastating economic crisis. Things did not improve much for the winegrower between the wars, and World War II brought more economic pain, not least of which was the loss of many Jewish wine merchants.

By 1950, only 49,000 hectares of vineyard remained in Germany compared to the estimated 300,000-400,000 hectares under vine at the end of the Middle Ages and the 103,000 hectares of vineyard that exist today. Quantity, not quality, ruled the day, and viticulturists developed new high-yielding varieties, while vineyards became more mechanized.

Sterile cold filtration, a technology pioneered by the German company Seitz (now Seitz-Filter-Werke) in Bad Kreuznach around 1920, enabled winemakers to halt fermentation and retain natural sugar in the wine by filtering the yeast away before bottling. The process ensured a biologically stable, clear, and sweet wine that producers could ship around the world without fear of refermentation. Wine producers could now precisely control the style, giving the world a wonderful array of Riesling expressions on one hand, but also a means to mask poor quality with sugar on the other. German wine's era of "cheap and sweet" had arrived.

For reasons we'll explore in the chapter German Wine Law Explained, a new, sweeping wine law came into effect in July 1971, which would radically alter German wine for the next half-century. Among its many follies was a sugar-based quality system and a wholesale abandonment of the concept of terroir. No longer did the winegrower need to be from a famous winemaking village or own vines in a renowned site. In fact, those thousands of historically named vineyards would be enlarged and reorganized into larger conglomerations known as Grosslagen, borrowing the names from famous ones.

To reach the apex of quality meant harvesting ripe grapes adorned with a Prädikat like Kabinett or Spätlese, terms borrowed from Germany's past and given new legal meaning in this new era of German wine. As a result, the VDNV rebranded as the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (the VDP) and retooled its mission to focus on quality and ultimately the quality of its vineyards. The development of their origin-based classification system, leading up to the current iteration introduced in 2012, is covered in the chapter "Germany's VDP."

VDP or not, most German producers now organize their production and market their wines on a Romanic, rather than Germanic, system, i.e., terroir, and most German wines are dry. However, the Prädikat categories persist, and in the northerly winegrowing areas such as the Mosel, light, low-alcohol wines with zappy acidity balanced by residual sugar are a wine style that no other wine-producing country can produce. Happily, it's all part of what makes German wine unique and gives us the diversity and range we enjoy today.

[German Wine Law →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-law/)
### Germany's VDP
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/germanys-vdp/
Last updated: 2026-09-06T21:54:18.000Z
During Germany's "golden era" in the mid- to late 19th century, the finest Mosel and Rheingau wines fetched exceptionally high prices at auction, and German wines were among the most sought-after in Europe. The popularity of the finest German wines for those who could afford them stood in contrast to Kunstwein, artificial concoctions of grape juice (or not), sweetened and fortified. Amongst the best producers working the steep slopes with Riesling and Silvaner, a concept of quality known as Naturwein (alt. Naturrein) had arisen.

With the widespread practice of Gallization (a volume-stretching form of Chaptalization) and the failure of Germany's first (1892), second (1901), and third (1909) wine laws to control it, several regional associations representing Naturwein producers met on November 26, 1910, in Koblenz. They founded the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (Association of German Natural Wine Auctioneers), or VDNV. Their mission was to unite Germany's best wine producers into an alliance against the era's fraudulent and manipulated wines.

The group's symbol, an eagle with a grape bunch on its chest, was designed in 1925-1926, and by the 1930s, it was appearing on the labels of the member wineries. The stylized "Traubenadler" (grape eagle) originally faced left. With the 2012 rollout of the VDP's vineyard classification, the eagle turned its head to the right, symbolically looking toward the future rather than the past.

Gallization was one of the many manipulations commonly employed by early-20th-century German winemakers, and for our VDNV heroes working the best and steepest sites to achieve natural ripeness through effort and sweat, Chaptalization in any form would not be allowed by their charter. Germany's fourth (1930) wine law put an end to Gallization. Still, it allowed for Chaptalization by adding dry sugar, and the VDNV continued to maintain its Naturwein (unchaptalized) position up until the radical shift that was Germany's fifth (1971) wine law.

The period from 1945 to 1971 saw the popularity of sweet wines (and the technology to produce them consistently) rise, and the new law finally addressed the VDNV's major issue of Chaptalization. The law now made clear distinctions between Chaptalized and non-Chaptalized wines with the creation of Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat, respectively, and further subdivided the non-Chaptalized category into varying Prädikat levels of natural ripeness: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese.

This irregular system, which treats natural ripeness as the highest quality category in the eyes of the law, is unique to Germany and, given its northerly climate, might have made some sense in the much colder vintages of fifty years ago. To place ripeness above all else as the main determiner of quality, however, was a misguided assumption by the authorities who wrote the law. It has always been, and will always be, the case that some countries, regions, villages, and vineyards have a more favorable climate for wine than others. One vineyard's combination of soil and exposure might yield consistently better wine than its neighbor's; that's just how it is.

The 1971 wine law reads as though politicians and bureaucrats thought it up to satisfy their base of constituents. During Willy Brandt's "Mehr Demokratie wagen" Chancellorship, socio-economic factors do seem to have played a role in shaping the new, egalitarian wine law. Putting the Prädikat system awarding ripeness aside, the law also included other democratizing concepts, such as enlarging (most) single vineyards to a minimum of 5 hectares, introducing the collective site known as the Grosslagen, and, as a final parting insult to the VDNV, banning the term Naturwein.

In 1972, with their decades-long crusade against Chaptalization at its core, the VDNV adopted the name Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP). But quality now meant something very different, and the mission now became restoring the former glory of Germany's best vineyard sites. While the Mosel and Nahe can produce wines of astonishing beauty with residual sweetness, the image of "sweet and cheap" came to define German wine for the masses by 1971, and off-dry and sweet wines were never the strength of warmer climates like the Pfalz.

In a stroke of irony, the VDP decided to produce both Qualitätswein and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat, i.e., Chaptalized and non-Chaptalized wines, accommodating both dry and sweet wine producers, and in both cases, elevating what matters most to quality: the vineyard. In 1984, a group in the Rheingau, led by Bernhard Breuer, including Erwein Graf Matuschka-Greiffenclau (Schloss Vollrads), Dr. Hans Ambrosi, and Prof. Dr. Helmut Becker, formed the Charta, an association that sought to restore Rheingau wines to their former reputation: high-quality, food-friendly, and dry. Soon to follow was a classification of vineyard sites based on an old 1867 Prussian tax map, which identified the historically great Rheingau vineyards. The Charta first revealed its classification in 1992, with the best sites identified as "Erstes Gewächs" (First Growth), and became Hessen state law in 1999.

Many Charta members also belonged to the VDP, and with the success of their regional classification, the VDP went to work on a model for all its members. In 2001, the VDP introduced a three-tier classification. Given the terroir-specific nature of German wine, the hierarchy drew its pyramid shape from Burgundy: Gutswein (estate wine), Ortswein (village-level wine), and Erste Lage (classified single-vineyard wine). Since the system was about terroir and not sugar, all VDP member estates, dry or sweet, could organize and market their production in this way, with the very best single vineyards elevated to the status of Erste Lage (premier cru).

VDP.Erste Lage wines from this era were branded with a logo showing the number 1 and a grape bunch, either on the label or embossed on the bottle. Wines with residual sugar would carry traditional Prädikat names, from Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese. Because of the Charta and VDP.Rheingau's special legal status, a dry wine from a classified site, would be labeled Erstes Gewächs in Rheingau, and a VDP.Grosses Gewächs (great growth) elsewhere.

The varieties permitted for GG status are determined by the regional associations, so while only Riesling (and as of 2022 vintage, Spätburgunder) are permitted for GG in the Mosel, one might encounter Lemberger GG in Württemberg or Frühburgunder GG in the Ahr.

By 2012, a revised classification was announced, further aligning it with the Burgundian four-tier model. The highest classification, used for just 16% of Germany's named single-vineyards, around 430-440 sites, is VDP.Grosse Lage. Below that is VDP.Erste Lage or premier cru, just as it is in Burgundy. Like Burgundy, producers with holdings in these sites could blend them together and produce a wine simply labeled Premier Cru as is common in Rheinhessen with VDP.Aus Ersten Lagen. The VDP.Ortswein tier (a sometimes-overlooked but potentially excellent value) is sometimes marketed under the village name, especially when famous, such as Rüdesheim, but it is common to name it after the soil, such as Keuper or Vulkangestein. Finally, VDP.Gutswein is intended to reflect the region's character and is an important wine for the market. A Gutswein is like a business card for the winery, and gives the drinker a glimpse of what the producer and region are all about.

There are around 200 member estates, and while the VDP is not a closed group, new members must be invited and have a track record of producing high-quality wines and holdings in classified sites. There are VDP member estates in each of Germany's thirteen wine regions. There is a governing structure with a VDP president in each region and a national VDP president, currently Steffan Christmann of Weingut Christmann in the Pfalz. The VDP introduced a VDP.Sekt Statut in 2021, and there are currently two dedicated VDP.Sekt producers: VDP.Sektestate Raumland and VDP.Sektgut Reinecker.
### German Wine Law
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/german-wine-law/
Last updated: 2026-09-06T21:59:26.000Z
## The First German Wine Law (1892)

The First German Wine Law, enacted on April 20th, 1892, was the first federal attempt to regulate production. It focused on hygiene and preventing the sale of "artificial" wine. The 1892 law prohibited the use of chemical additives but allowed the addition of sugar to compensate for the naturally low sugar levels in grapes grown in Germany's cool climate. The process was called Gallization, a technique similar to Chaptalization but using a sugar-water solution to increase the wine's volume and produce more drinkable liquid. Because this was considered a customary cellar treatment, there was no requirement to disclose it on the label. Still, the law protected the terms Naturwein and Naturrein for the exclusive use of unsugared wines, creating a two-tier market in which 'Natural' wines held a higher status. Regardless, the issue of Chaptalization or Gallization would be a sticking point, leading right up to the 1971 wine law and beyond.

## The Second German Wine Law (1901)

The Second Wine Law of the German Reich, passed by the Reichstag in 1901 and enacted on May 24,th 1902, was lobbied for by the various regional unions of "natural wine auctioneers." In their view, the 1872 law was weak because it allowed for Gallization as long as it wasn't "excessive." It defined wine as "a drink produced by the alcoholic fermentation of juice extracted from bunches of grapes." With the 1901 law, concoctions of sugared pommace, other fruits, raisins, or all of the above, blended and doctored, sometimes with chemicals, could no longer be sold as wine. However, by failing to set a hard limit on Gallization, it merely forbade an unspecified 'excessive' amount. For the natural wine auctioneers, this was still not good enough. Their refusal to accept any level of Gallization—regardless of how 'moderate' the law deemed it—directly led to a 1909 revision of the law and to the 1910 formation of the VDNV (the precursor to the VDP), which banned sugared wines from its auctions entirely.

## The Third German Wine Law (1909)

The Kaiser signed the Third German Wine Law on April 7, 1909, which decreed that if a producer chose to put a region or grape on the label, it had to be "true," a response to natural wine auctioneers' insistence that cheap fakes were selling as expensive Mosel or Rhine wines, but allowed merchants to blend in up to 10% of wine from a different region without disclosing it or changing the name on the label. To the purist auctioneers, a "90% Mosel" wine was still a "fake" Mosel. Furthermore, while the 1892 and 1901 laws were a start, it was the 1909 revision that introduced the 20% volume limit to Gallization. Previously, producers sometimes doubled their volume with sugar water and capped it at 20% rendered Gallization (sugar + water), making Chaptalization (adding only sugar) a common practice. The wine trade resisted labeling its sugared wines as such, but the 1909 law tightened restrictions on a wine's claim of origin. A claim of domaine-bottling had become yet another source of contention between wine merchants and the natural wine auctioneers, which the 1909 law did nothing to protect. Their dissatisfaction with this law is exactly what led them to form the Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer (VDNV) in 1910.

## The Fourth German Wine Law (1930)

In 1930, a new, protectionist wine law came into effect, stipulating that any wine labeled "Mosel" had to be 100% Mosel. Original-Abfüllung (estate bottling) was now legally protected. It mandated that quality vineyards must use Vitis vinifera, outlawing hybrid or American grape varieties. It banned blending white and red grapes and banned blending German and imported wines. The Fourth German Wine Law allowed for Chaptalization in a bad year by adding dry sugar, but enshrined the concept of Naturwein (Natural Wine) and established a hierarchy in which "unaltered" wines were considered superior. While the 1930 wine law addressed many of the quality concerns raised by elite natural wine producers, it did not anticipate the technological innovations of post-war Germany, specifically the use of Süssreserve (adding unfermented juice to sweeten wine), which would eventually render the 'Naturwein' definition obsolete.

## The Fifth (and current) German Wine Law (1971)

In 1971, a new Wine Law took effect. By this time, the wine laws of most European countries centered on protecting the typicité of place. Some went a step further and dictated the production method, such as in the DOC(G)s of Italy or DOPs/DOCas of Spain. In theory, these laws ensure the authenticity of place and production and should therefore guide consumers toward better quality.

The 1971 German Wine Law pushed those notions aside in favor of a new, egalitarian concept: ripeness. With the new law, it would no longer matter if you were a grower from a famous wine village or had holdings in important vineyard sites. You could now be a grower, producer, estate, or cooperative from anywhere in Germany, and make the highest category of wine according to the law by harvesting the ripest grapes. Introducing Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (quality wine with distinction).

The 1971 Wine Law established two basic categories: Table Wine and Quality Wine. Deutscher Tafelwein (German Table Wine) was the lowest rung. A producer couldn't initially specify a vineyard or list the grape variety or vintage on the label. The grapes just had to be 100% from Germany. Later EU regulations (specifically in 2009) required Germany to allow variety and vintage designations even on the lowest tier of wine.

The law initially lacked a "middle tier," such as Vin de Pays in France, but was rectified in 1982 with the introduction of the Landwein category. Like the lowest tier, Deutscher Wein from 2009 onward, village and vineyard names may not appear on the label. 85% of the grapes must come from the defined area. There are 26 Landwein regions. Some Landwein regions stipulate that 100% of the grapes must come from that region. Landwein today is a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI in English or g.g.A. in German) registered in the European Union's database and may bear the PGI seal on its label.

At the top of the pyramid is Qualitätswein (quality wine), split into two categories: chaptalized or non-chaptalized. Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA), simply Qualitätswein from 2007 onward, is a "quality wine from a specific wine-growing region," an Anbaugebiet, and, importantly, allows Chaptalization. At this level, the wine had to come from one of 11 (now 13) specific wine regions, and blending with another region, such as the Mosel or the Pfalz, would disqualify it as a QbA. Every quality wine (QbA or QmP) must pass a lab analysis and a blind tasting by a panel to receive an Amtliche Prüfungsnummer (official test number), which appears on the label.

The same rules apply to the second-quality wine category, Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP), but Chaptalization is prohibited. QmP wines, called Prädikatswein from 2007 onward, are further categorized by their natural ripeness at harvest. The Qualitätswein mit Prädikat categories in 1971, from least ripe to ripest, are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese, terms borrowed from German wine history. While they had been used by prestigious estates for over a century to denote quality, the 1971 law was the first to give them strict legal definitions based on minimum must weight. Another Prädikat, Eiswein, was initially part of the Beerenauslese category in 1971\. It didn't become its own distinct, standalone Prädikat level in the law until 1982.

While there might have been some sense in all of this, given Germany's weather and the technological advances of the 20th century, the 1971 wine law was a total paradigm shift from the "purity" standards of the 1930s, and for those quality-minded "Naturwein" producers mentioned earlier, those with holdings in Germany's steep and historic vineyard sites: it's about to get much worse!

The 1971 law banned the use of Naturrein and Naturwein, among other qualifying terms, which producers of the VDNV (Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer) had been using since before the VDNV's 1910 formation. The new law mandated, with a handful of exceptions, that an Einzellage (single vineyard) be at least 5 hectares, forcing thousands of tiny, historically named plots to be merged into larger sites and adopt those names, and it created Grosslagen (Collective Sites), often with names similar to historic Einzellagen, to the point that consumers couldn't tell the difference. With 'Naturwein' banished from their name and their historic vineyards diluted by the Grosslagen system, the VDNV needed a rebrand. In 1972, they emerged as the Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter, the VDP.

We will look closely at the private association, the VDP, in the next chapter, but we cannot overstate its influence on the many reforms to the wine law since 1971\. Bear in mind that the 1971 law, Germany's Fifth Wine Law, is also its current one. While the Prädikat system persists, especially in the Mosel, where its cool climate dictates one of the world's most unique wine styles, that of low alcohol, crystalline, sometimes featherweight wines balanced one degree to another by residual sweetness, there's been a gradual shift from what we might call a "Germanic" system, one that is based on sugar, towards a "Romanic" system, one based on origin or terroir, similar to the rest of Europe.

Between 1971 and 1994, there were dozens of minor tweaks to Germany's Fifth Wine law, not least the addition of the Landwein category in 1982, as mentioned earlier. Many more adjustments were made regarding labeling, grape varieties, and alcohol levels, so that by 1994 the government reissued the 1971 law with the 1994 WeinG, an updated and formal consolidation of the 1971 law, rather than a brand-new, independent legal framework. In addition to the maintenance necessary to ensure a clean working document, the European Union had established much stricter rules for the "Common Market Organization for Wine." Germany had to officially incorporate these EU requirements into its national law to ensure its wines remained legal for trade across Europe.

One of the most dramatic reforms since 1971 was the 2009 reform aligning Germany with the EU's three-tier quality pyramid and Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) standards. The reform created three standardized buckets for European wines. In Germany, these are: 1\. Deutscher Wein, formerly Tafelwein, the base tier, where no geographic origin smaller than "Germany" is allowed, aligning it with the new EU base category "Wine" (Wein in German). 2\. Landwein is the middle tier, aligning with the EU's PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) category (g.g.A., or geschützte geografische Angabe in German), and 3\. Qualitätswein (includes Prädikatswein), the highest tier, aligning with the EU's PDO, or Protected Designation of Origin (g.U., or geschützte Ursprungsbezeichnung in German).

Meanwhile, the VDP had been hard at work for almost 30 years on a new classification system based on origin, and in 2002, announced a new three-tier pyramid of its own. Initially, this was 1\. Gutswein (estate wine), 2\. Klassifizierte Lage (classified sites), and 3\. Grosse Lage (Grand Cru). What was missing was a middle tier, similar to the village level in Burgundy. After another decade of internal debate, the VDP announced in 2012 its hierarchy as it exists today, one that aligns with the official Prädikat system to be inclusive of its members who focus on those styles, i.e., the Mosel.

The four-tiered VDP.Herkunftspyramide (VDP origin pyramid) now has 1\. VDP.GUTSWEIN (Estate wine), 2\. VDP.ORTSWEIN (Village wine), 3\. VDP.ERSTE LAGE (Premier Cru), and 4\. VDP.GROSSE LAGE (Grand Cru). The top dry wines, hailing from a Grosse Lage vineyard and meeting all the quality standards of the VDP, carry the special designation Grosses Gewächs (GG). VDP or not, most producers in Germany now organize and market their wines this way, and most regions produce more dry wine than off-dry or sweet, with the Mosel being the notable exception. There are holdouts, of course, for the good old days of Kabinett trocken, Spätlese trocken, and so on, and those producers have solid reasons for doing so. Still, with the changing climate and shift to marketing by origin, the Prädikat system no longer fits the majority.

On November 26, 2020, the Reichstag passed an amendment, which took effect on January 27, 2021\. It introduces a hierarchy based on geographic origin to both fit with the overarching EU system and align with how German producers were already organizing their production. To become legally binding by the 2026 vintage, labels must comply with the new origin pyramid. The base tier for Qualitätswein is 1\. Anbaugebiet or area, e.g., PDO Rheingau, 2\. Region, previously Beriech (district) or Grosslage (collective site), but now the Grosslage name must be preceded on the label by the word "Region," and village names are not allowed in conjunction with the Grosslage name, e.g., Kiedricher Heiligenstock must now state Region Heiligenstock. 3\. Ortswein (village wine), e.g., Kiedrich, and 4\. Lage (single vineyard). Single vineyards can be categorized further as Großes Gewächs (Grand Crus) and Erstes Gewächs (Premier Crus), provided they're dry, meet other quality standards, such as maximum yield and minimum alcohol, and the village name precedes the vineyard name.

The VDP's proven model based on origin had finally made its way to official governmental doctrine, but also raised many questions. My first question upon hearing about the amendment was, now that every producer in Germany could use the terms Großes Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs, who would classify the sites? The answer I received from the Deutsches Weininstitut in 2022 was a headscratcher to say the least:

"The new German Wine Law will not determine a vineyard as Erste Lage and Große Lage, but will allow German winemakers to produce wines labeled as Erstes Gewächs and Großes Gewächs. Contrary to the VDP, which ranks vineyards by overall quality, as in Burgundy, the new German Wine Law will set standards only for wine production. That means all registered single vineyards qualify for both Erstes Gewächs and Großes Gewächs. The main difference lies in the yield per hectare. Wines labeled as Erstes Gewächs have a limit of 60 hl/ha; Großes Gewächs has a limit of 50 hl/ha.

Furthermore, an Erstes Gewächs can't be sold before June 1 of the year following the harvest, and a Großes Gewächs can't be sold before September 1 (+ an additional 9 months for red wines). The other requirements (identical for both Erstes and Großes Gewächs) are: single grape varietal, typical grape varietal for the vineyard/region (determined by the state and later the Schutzgemeinschaften), manually harvested, at least 12,2 vol.% of potential alcohol in the must (approx. 90° OE, Spätlese quality), the vineyard or Gewann has to be put on the label, a vintage has to be declared (85% rule) and put on the label, the wine has to be dry, but the label cannont state the sweetness, an additional sensory check of the wine after 6 months regarding the, typicality of the grape varietal and regional taste. That means a wine from "Forster Ungeheuer" can be declared both Erstes Gewächs and Großes Gewächs."

Honest, yet stunning. Producers, or perhaps at best local associations, would declare what could be Erstes and Großes Gewächs. The VDP spent decades poring over Prussian tax maps, analyzing soil and microclimates, and evaluating the performance to arrive at its classification of hundreds of sites. Not all of the 320 or so VDP.Grosse Lagen are equals, and many critics believe there are too many, but declaring a vineyard as a grand cru just because "it feels right?" I must not have been the only German wine lover to have noticed, in July 2025, the authorities announced a draft bill to introduce a nationwide system of vineyard classification:

"The Wine Ordinance will introduce a system of vineyard classification.'Erstes Gewächs' and 'Großes Gewächs' may only come from vineyards that are specially assessed for this purpose." A commission to determine the classification will be appointed, and a transitional provision is being created that allows the labeling regulations in effect before the introduction of the site classification system, concerning the designations 'Erstes Gewächs' and 'Großes Gewächs', to continue to apply up to and including the 2027 harvest year."

For the 2021 to 2027 period, the process of labelling a wine as Erstes Gewächs and 'Großes Gewächs is on hold, unless you can prove to have used the terms before 2021 (like the VDP, Bernkasteler Ring, Rheingau Charta, etc.). As of 2028, only recognized single vineyards and the quality standards established in the wine law can be classified as such.
### Mosel Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-producers/
Last updated: 2026-09-09T20:16:19.000Z
### Joh. Jos. Prüm

### Karthäuserhof, VDP.Weingut 

### Falkenstein, Hofgut

Saar | Konz-Niedermennig | 9-hectares | Mainly organic

My exposure to these wines has mainly been through a pair of Chicago collectors and Riesling enthusiasts, Patrick Rauber and Adam Caldwell, aka [@rieslingkenner](https://www.instagram.com/rieslingkenner/?hl=en&ref=jessebeckerms.com), who put on an annual charity event featuring Hofgut Falkenstein. The event has drawn Lars Carlberg and David Schildknecht, who have shared their knowledge and contributed to Falkenstein's relatively broad availability and following in our local market. It's positive to see that a non-industry event can generate interest in German wine and Riesling, even if for one night a year.

Falkenstein lies in the Konzer Tälchen ("the little valley of Konz), which, as I write this in February 2026, is a section of the Saar I've yet to visit, but home to the historic Krettnacher Euchariusberg, marked dark red on Franz Josef Clotten's 1868 Viticultural Map of the Saar and Mosel, indicating a high-value site in the eyes of the tax man. The Tälchen also comprises the steep slate sites of Krettnacher Altenberg (also dark red), Niedermenniger Herrenberg, and Niedermenniger Sonnenberg, all of which make up part of the 9-hectare estate owned by Erich Weber and cultivated by him and his sons.

Carlberg provides extensive detail about each of these sites and their Gewanne on his excellent [larscarlberg.com](http://larscarlberg.com/?ref=jessebeckerms.com), rendering anything I could add here futile. Carlberg is the source for information on these wines, but to summarize the Falkenstein philosophy: vine age is 40-90 years, and 1 hectare is ungrafted. Farming is mainly organic, with Bordeaux mixture avoided to limit copper buildup in the soil. Harvest is by hand.

In the cellar, Weber describes his minimalist approach as "Kontrolliertes nichts tun" (controlled doing nothing), and all fermentations are by ambient yeasts, with the various parcels vinified separately in old oak Fuder. In the old Mosel tradition, Weber bottles each Fuder separately, resulting in multiple bottlings of the same site and Prädikat. AP numbers vary; the eighth number, now highlighted in bold on the label, is the cask number.

The focus is on trocken and feinherb wines, and Falkenstein is the style of Saar wine I very much enjoy drinking. Weber adheres to the Prädikat system and uses the Prädikat + trocken naming convention that he views as a historical link to the tradition of unchaptalized Saar Rieslings. This and Spätburgunder produced without ML are probably not philosophies I'd share with Weber, but who cares when there's so much to love about these individual and detailed traditional wines from the Saar.

### Von Othegraven, VDP.Weingut

“Altenberg is as steep as the Matterhorn,” Gunter Jauch likes to say, adding that “it’s a 65% grade from the foot to the summit.” Von Othegraven is a leading winery of the Saar producing Riesling exclusively from grand cru sites of Devonian slate soils. Since 2010, the owner is Günther Jauch, the quizmaster, and host of “Wer Wird Millionar?”, the German version of “Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?” Jauch lives in Berlin with his wife Thea and might be viewed by some as an outsider, but the couple had the inside track when the previous owner, Dr. Heidi Kegel, Jauch’s relative, decided to sell. Günther Jauch, whose grandmother was born a von Othegraven, is now the seventh generation of his family to own the estate. Von Othegraven was a founding member of the Association of German Natural Wine Auctioneers, today’s Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP), and has been producing benchmark Saar wines since the early 19th century. All of Von Othegraven’s vineyards are VDP.Grosse Lage (grand cru). Typical of the Saar, they are incredibly steep, south-facing, and feature Devonian slate intermixed with Rotliegend (iron-infused slate). The signature site of Von Othegraven is the Kanzemer Altenberg, a vineyard you cannot miss when standing in the estate’s charming English garden. “Altenberg is as steep as the Matterhorn,” Jauch likes to say, adding that “it’s a 65% grade from the foot to the summit.” It is also the longest steep slope in Germany at 250 meters long. Steep and south-facing with slate and Rotliegend soil applies to the other grand crus of Wawerner Herrenberger (a Monopol) and Wiltinger Kupp. The vineyard that breaks the mold is the famous Ockfener Bockstein, one of the classic vineyards of the Saar, with silver-grey slate in a south-facing amphitheater. Even Riesling Max, the basic Gutswein Riesling of Von Othegraven, hails from the grand crus Altenberg and Herrenberg. Von Othegraven is one of the rare wineries to produce consistent quality despite several generations of family succession. Max von Othegraven took over the estate in 1921 and made a vintage for the ages that year. More recently, Jauch’s predecessor, Dr. Heidi Kegel, elevated the winery to new heights before turning over winemaking to Andreas Barth, then to the talented Sven Klinger in the summer of 2021\. Under Sven’s direction, quality has soared, and Von Othegraven received Vinum Magazine’s German Winemaker of the Year award in 2023\. the fermentation is spontaneous with natural yeasts, and he likes to give them the time they need to clarify and stabilize in stainless steel tanks and large neutral oak casks. Prädikatsweine and dry wines receive the same, unadulterated, very reduced treatment without the superfluous use of technology. The wines are bottled unfined.

### Wwe Dr. H Thanisch - Erben Müller-Burggraef, Weingut

### Wwe Dr. H Thanisch - Erben Thanisch , VDP.Weingut

[Mosel: Winding Slopes of Slate →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/mosel-winding-slopes-of-slate/)

[Karthäuserhof, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/karthauserhof-vdp-weingut/)

[Joh. Jos. Prüm, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/joh-jos-prum-vdp-weingut/)

[Rheinhold Haart, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/rheinhold-haart-vdp-weingut/)

[Mönchhof & Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Weingüter](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/monchhof-joh-jos-christoffel-erben-weinguter/)

[Willems-Willems, Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/willems-willems-weingut/)
### Pfalz: Pfalz is for the Feinschmecker
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-pfalz-is-for-the-feinschmecker/
Last updated: 2026-09-18T21:38:11.000Z
Standing at the edge of the vineyards in Forst, looking upward towards the Pfälzerwald, you could just as easily imagine yourself in Morey-Saint-Denis or Puligny. Like the Côte d’Or, sloping vineyards face east over a plain, and some of the sites, most famously Forster Kirchenstück, are even surrounded by a Clos. Of course, this celebrated section of the Pfalz, between Kallstadt and Ruppertsberg, makes up only a tiny percentage of Germany’s second-largest wine region. The Pfalz has 23,684 hectares of vineyard (only Rheinhessen claims more). While Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer, Pechstein, and the previously mentioned Kirchenstück are planted almost entirely in Riesling, the leading producers of the southern Pfalz deliver some of Germany’s finest Spätburgunder and Weißburgunder. The Pfälzer celebrate their dry, full-bodied wines and regional cuisine through a seemingly never-ending series of festivals, making the Pfalz the region for the Feinschmecker.

### Pfalz Facts

Hectares under vine

23,640 (2025)

Climate

Sheltered by the Haardt Mountains, the Pfalz has a dry, sunny, temperate climate and is one of the warmest wine regions in Germany

Soils

A diverse patchwork of soils ranging from sandstone and limestone to loess, loam, and volcanic basalt

Varieties

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Müller-Thurgau, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, and with 429 ha, half of the Merlot grown in Germany is grown in the Pfalz

Bereiche 2

Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße, Südliche Weinstraße

Einzellagen 323

Kallstadter Saumagen, Forster Kirchenstück, Pechstein, Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer, Birkweiler Kastanienbusch, Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein, Zeller Schwarzer Herrgott

As written in English, the Palatinate, a variant of Palast from the Roman Palatium, is the region’s historical name and covers more territory than the Weinanbaugebiet today. The wine region is an 85-kilometer stretch of vineyards running north to south, situated under the lee of the Pfalz Forest on the Haardt Mountains, a continuation of Alsace’s Vosges. Bad Dürkheim, Neustadt an der Weinstraße, and Landau are its three main cities, and 130 villages between Bockenheim, bordering Rheinhessen, and Schweigen, bordering Alsace, fall within two Bereiche: the Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße and the Südliche Weinstraße. In former times, the divisions were Unterhaardt, Mittelhaardt, and Oberhaardt. Still, the construction of the Deutsche Weinstraße in 1936 (an idea conceived by the Third Reich to encourage economic growth) led to its current organization. The northern vineyards, with ecclesiastical origins and classified in the 1828 Bavarian Land Registry, were historically more significant than the southern area, which, until recently, was Schoppenwein country, with its wines served in the tankard in Weinstuben or sold in bulk, sometimes destined for the Mosel.

The 1828 Königlich Bayerische Bodenklassifikation (Royal Bavarian Soil Classification) hangs illuminated on the wall at Dr. Bürklin-Wolf in Wachenheim, Pfalz. The classification was a pioneering land survey and quality-grading system established by the Kingdom of Bavaria. While its primary goal was fiscal—to create a fair and standardized basis for land taxation—it accidentally created one of the world's first and most enduring official vineyard classification systems.

Back to the food-friendly style of its wines, the Pfalz climate is much like that of Alsace or Baden and is one of the warmest, sunniest, and driest wine regions in Germany. As in Alsace, its complex geology results from millions of years of upheaval and tectonic activity, with areas of sandstone, basalt, limestone, sand, gravel, and löss. A broad range of grape varieties can produce a wide range of interesting results, and while Riesling is king with 6,000 hectares planted, Dornfelder, Grauburgunder, Müller-Thurgau, and Spätburgunder are also planted in significant quantities, along with Portugieser, Silvaner, Weißburgunder, Gewürztraminer, Kerner, Chardonnay, Morio-Muskat, and Sauvignon Blanc. All the varieties are what’s needed to pair with the local cuisine. Saumagen, literally “sow’s stomach,” is stuffed with a mixture of pork, potatoes, and seasonings, while a variety of Würste become the snack of Weck, Worscht un Woi (bun, sausage, and wine). Dampfnudeln, potatoes, and sauerkraut are part of the regional fare, but as a wise wine merchant once said, Pfalz wine is easily at home with the finest cuisine.

There are two Bereiche (districts) within the Pfalz Weinanbaugebiet (wine region): Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße and Südliche Weinstraße. I've included an entry for Zellertal, formerly the Unterhaardt, for historical purposes. Zellertal is a subzone of Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße and not an official Bereich in its own right.

### Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße

The Pfalz was originally divided into Unterhaardt, Mittelhaardt, and Oberhaardt before being reorganized and renamed into two Bereiche in the 1990s: the Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße in the north and the Südliche Weinstraße (formerly the Oberhaardt) in the south. Mittelhaardt is the area between Bad Dürkheim and Neustadt, where Pfälzer Riesling is at its best, and it includes several famous villages, including Deidesheim, Forst, Ruppertsberg, Ungstein, and Wachenheim. It is one of the driest areas in Germany, and the soils range from basalt in Forster Jesuitengarten to limestone in Kallstadter Saumagen.

The influence of the French is clear in the Mittelhaardt. Andreas Jordan arrived in Deidesheim from France in 1708 and focused on wine quality. Divided by the Napoleonic inheritance code in 1849, three estates emerged from Jordan’s holdings: Bassermann-Jordan, Reichsrat von Buhl, and Dr. Deinhard (today’s von Winning). Under Bavarian rule, the Mittelhaardt vineyards were classified in the 1828 Land Registry with vineyards such as Pechstein, Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer, and Kirchenstück, which were designated as Grand Crus. Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, and Bürklin-Wolf (the three “B’s”) became the bearers of Mittelhaardt’s quality in the 19th and 20th centuries.

Following the two World Wars, the Mittelhaardt fell to the same trappings as other German wine regions, producing large volumes of sweet wines and diminishing its reputation. Quality began a slow and steady resurgence in the 1990s, with estates like Müller-Catoir leading the charge. Today’s Mittelhaardt is a dynamic mix of reenergized classics like von Buhl and von Winning, youth-infused mature estates like Heinrich Spindler, and VDP superstars like Christmann and Rings.

### Zellertal (Sub-zone of Mittelhaardt-Deutsche Weinstraße)

Search for Zellertal on a map, and you'll see that the neighborhoods Flörsheim-Dalsheim (Keller), Hohen-Sülzen (Battenfeld-Spanier), and Westhofen (Wittmann) are all nearby. The northernmost valley of the Pfalz borders the star-packed southernmost section of Rheinhessen. Like their Rheinhessen colleagues, the independent Zellertal producers (around 10 wineries) seem poised to become the new stars of the Pfalz. Everything about Zellertal’s soil (limestone), its climate (the coolest part of the Pfalz), and its producers (highly ambitious) points in this direction. The Zellertal is a trough-shaped, east-west valley with relatively gentle sides, bounded on the north and south by two chains of low hills under 350 meters a.s.l. The distance between the two ridges is 2 to 3 kilometers. Flowing east through the valley, from Donnersberg to Monsheim, is the Pfrimm, a tributary of the Rhine, which is just under 43 kilometers long.

Zellertal belonged to a division of the Pfalz formerly known as Unterhaardt, and independent wine estates were once the rare exception. Today, there are 350 hectares of vineyard in the Zellertal, and producers like Schwedhelm and Bremer are drawing fresh attention to the area. Not that Zellertal is new; in fact, Zell claims to be the oldest wine-growing village in the Pfalz, with over 1300 years of viticultural history. There’s also a vineyard here of great historical importance. One of the iconic symbols of the Zellertal is the Schwarzer Herrgott, a large black cross originally erected by the Irish monk St. Phillip of Zell, who planted a vineyard for sacramental wine close to the cloisters. The locals have kept up the tradition, and a Schwarzer Herrgott is always standing, watching over the vineyard. The 9-hectare, south-facing, steeply terraced Schwarzer Herrgott is located on a limestone plateau. The soil is rocky, composed of pale, porous limestone, and heavy with layers of loam and marl that typify the region. The Schwarzer Herrgott is one of the oldest vineyards in Germany, dating to 708 A.D., and is classified as a Große Lage by the VDP.

### Südliche Weinstraße

The southern Pfalz, which begins south of Neustadt an der Weinstraße, was once known as Oberhaardt and was known for Schoppenwein, everyday wine served by the glass in Weinstuben (wine taverns) and festivals. It's also an old liquid measure in the Pfalz: 0.5 liters, the size of a Dubbeglas (think pint glass with dimples), filled to the brim with wine and sparkling water for a refreshing Weinschorle (wine spritzer) at outdoor celebrations all summer long.

An intense concentration of top-rated vineyards and producers, as in Forst and Deidesheim, this is not. To find a top-class vineyard in the Südliche Weinstraße requires a 25-minute drive south of Neustadt to Siebeldingen, and another 25 minutes by car to reach Schweigen at the French border. Here, at the southern tip of the Südpfalz, you'll find quality leaders like Ökonomierat Rebholz and Fritz Becker, two giants of German wine, with vineyards like Kastanienbusch and Kammerberg.

Südliche Weinstraße produces some of Germany's best Spätburgunder and has significant plantings of Grauburgunder and Weißburgunder. Serious Riesling is found here too, especially from Rebholz and Dr. Wehrheim, and there's lovely Gewürztraminer and Muskateller in these vineyards as well. In the Südliche Weinstrasse, exposures are more varied, and this warm, sunny sector of the Pfalz now produces so many great wines that the Schoppenwein image no longer registers with the export market.

In the Südliche Weinstrasse, exposures are more varied, and the best vineyards are frequently steeper than those of the Mittelhaardt. Cold air flows into the forest's nooks and crannies, where the vineyards and winegrowing villages are tucked into the hills rather than neatly aligned along their flanks. Colored sandstone is a prized soil here, and while rare, pockets of slate show up here and there. The region's shifting political allegiance between France and Germany over the past 200 years leaves its southernmost vineyards across the French border in the Alsatian town of Wissembourg, where many of Fritz Becker's best vineyards lie. Vinified in Germany, they are among the finest Pinot Noirs found anywhere.

[Pfalz Producers →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-producers/)

![Dr. Bürklin-Wolf's map of the Mittelhaardt, classified under the Royal Bavarian Land Taxation Law of 1828.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/94/f9/94f9245a-cf32-43e6-92d5-b61c8cc23cb9/content/images/2026/08/jesse-becker-ms-at-buerklin-wolf_royal-bavarian-soil-classification-map-1.jpg)

Dr. Bürklin-Wolf's map of the Mittelhaardt, classified under the Royal Bavarian Land Taxation Law of 1828.
### Pfalz Producers
URL: https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-producers/
Last updated: 2026-10-04T23:41:59.000Z
### Friedrich Becker, VDP.Weingut

Südliche Weinstraße | Schweigen | 29.8 hectares | Certified biodynamic by respekt-BIODYN

"I didn't want to, and still don't want to disappear into the anonymity of a 500,000-liter tank." -- Friedrich Becker Sr.

In the short film by Harold Woetzel, "Der Rebell und das Weinwunder." Friedrich Becker und die "5 Freunde," my favorite quote from Friedrich der "Alte Fritz" Becker Sr. (deceased), perfectly captures the rebellious attitude of what is undoubtedly one of Germany's leading red wine estates. It only barely surpasses my second favorite quote, from Frtiz Becker Jr., aka der "Kleine Fritz, "my mother was the calming center of the family, we're all Hitzköpfe (hotheads) you could say." If, on a quiet evening, you find yourself with 45 minutes to spare, search for this moving and inspiring short film on YouTube, preferably with a glass of Becker Spätburgunder in hand. It's a story and a reminder of all that is beautiful about wine.

In 1968, Fritz Becker paid a visit to the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and the world, his and ours, would never be the same. Fritz's father (what do we call him, der "Älteste Fritz"?) was a board member of the regional wine cooperative at the time, making Fritz's decision to break away and bottle his own wine a rebellious move on multiple levels. Fritz's visit to "the domaine" had made a clear impression. By 1973, the decision had been made to start his own domaine, to withhold delivery to the cooperative, and to do so without his father's approval.

Fritz Becker also decided to focus on dry, uncompromising Pinot Noir at a time when sweeter, mass-produced styles dominated the German market. To mark this independent streak, he launched his first bottles with the "Füchschen" (Little Fox) label—a nod to "The Fox and the Grapes," one of Aesop's Fables. Fritz's determination to produce dry and serious red wines drew mockery from his peers. The "sour grapes" fox remains on the label as a badge of honor.

Low yields and the use of small French oak barrels to age his wines were equally controversial at the time. Germany had just enacted a completely revised "Fifth" wine law in 1971, which explicitly turned away from the notion of terroir and embraced a new ideology based on ripeness (i.e., sugar levels). Fritz Sr., with 70% of his vineyards lying across the French border in Alsace, ignored the paradigm entirely, opting instead to underscore the limestone vein running through his vines.

In 1966, he began reclaiming the Kammerberg, a steep, historic vineyard near Wissembourg that had become overgrown and forgotten. Sankt Paul is another single vineyard site, first cultivated by the Cistercians in the 14th century. Over the centuries, Sankt Paul too fell into disrepair and eventually became completely overgrown with trees and bushes. The Spätburgunders from Kammerberg and Sankt Paul would later become two of Germany's most famous red wines, both powerful expressions of their Muschelkalk soil with distinctive "salty" minerality, high tension, and immense aging potential.

Fritz Becker Jr. worked alongside his father and, in 2005, took over cellar responsibilities. The younger Fritz brought his own ideas, which, like father, like son, were sometimes received with friction from his father. Friedrich Becker Sr. passed away in February 2025 at the age of 77\. According to Fritz Jr., he was out in his beloved vineyards inspecting his vines just the day before he died. Fritz Jr. carries on the legacy, producing what many consider the greatest red wines in Germany.

### Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, VDP.Weingut

Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf is an 85-hectare estate located in the Mittelhaardt village of Wachenheim and is one of the largest family-owned wine estates in Germany. This VDP estate comprises some of the most valuable vineyard lands in the country, with holdings in just about every top vineyard site in the Mittelhaardt, including Forster’s Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer, Pechstein (the benchmark example), and .54 hectares of Kirchenstück. In addition, there are Reiterpfad and Gaisböhl (an Alleinbesitz) in Ruppertsberg, and Hohenmorgen, Langenmoregen, and Kalkofen in Deidesheim. These sites were classified GC (denoting Grand Cru) in the 1994 in-house classification based on a Bavarian tax map from 1828\. The nine GC vineyards and seven PC (Premier Cru) sites made up 30% of Bürklin-Wolf’s production and helped solidify their return to the top echelon of German wineries. The internal classification and conversion to biodynamics in 2005 came about with the current generation, led by Geisenheim-trained Bettina Bürklin since 1990, with her husband, Christian von Guradze. Dr. Bürklin-Wolf can trace its history to the 16th century (1597), but the sweat of many generations, especially the current one, has made it one of the leading estates in the Pfalz and throughout Germany.

### Schwedhelm, Weingut

Know the Zellertal? No? I’m guessing you already know the neighborhood, though. Everything about this northern subregion of the Pfalz seems poised to capture our attention. Limestone soils, cooling west-east winds, and ambitious producers like Weingut Schwedhelm. Brothers Stephan and Georg Schwedhelm run Zellertal’s leading estate from their family’s winery in Zell, situated in the heart of this west-east valley bordering Rheinhessen. After locating Schwedhelm on a map, I couldn’t help but ask Stephan whether they associate more with their superstar Rheinhessen neighbors like Keller and Battenfeld-Spanier than with Von Winning or Rebholz. “We belong to the Pfalz,” said Stephan without a flinch, adding that “Zellertal was previously known as the Unterhaardt,” a region often overlooked in favor of the famous Mittelhaardt and Sudpfalz. Not that Zellertal is without great terroir or historically significant vineyards. Quite the opposite, actually. Schwedhelm is the caretaker of the Schwarzer Herrgott's original parcel. A 9-hectare, south-facing terraced site situated on a limestone plateau. The rocky, pale, porous limestone with heavy layers of loam and marl typifies Zellertal’s terroir, as does the cooling wind from the west, which leads to dry summers. The name stems from a large black crucifix visible from a distance. The village maintains it as a tribute to English Monk Philipp, who produced wine for the Eucharist here as early as 708 AC. The Schwarzer Herrgott is one of Germany's oldest vineyards. When you taste at Schewdhelm, you can tell they’re the clear quality leader in the valley. Their ascent was rapid; their grandparents grew grains and grapes and raised pigs in the 1940s. When the brothers’ parents took over, they focused solely on wine, producing 20 grape varieties and 60 different styles. Stephan joined the winery in 2006, and Georg joined a few years later. The brothers turned their focus to the Zellertal's unique terroir, making fewer wine styles and concentrating on dry, limestone-influenced Riesling, Weißburgunder, and Spätburgunder from great sites like Kreuzberg, Klosterstück, and Schwarzer Herrgott. “No one else in the Pfalz has this type of soil, says Stephan, "our soil is limestone-based like that in Burgundy.” The farming is organic, although Stephan grew dismayed by how much copper he sprayed in the vineyard and has since dropped the organic certification. Fermentations are mostly spontaneous, depending on vintage conditions, and the Gutsweine ages in stainless steel tanks, while Orstweine and single-vineyard wines spend time in a combination of stainless steel, old oak tonneau, or larger Holzfaß. Weingut Schwedhelm produces wines that capture Zellertal’s essence, with slender, cool profiles, limestone identity, and clear Pfalz origin.

[Pfalz: Pfalz is for the Feinschmecker →](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/wine-in-germany/pfalz-pfalz-is-for-the-feinschmecker/)

[Reichsrat von Buhl, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/reichsrat-von-buhl-vdp-weingut/)

[Ökonomierat Rebholz, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/okonomierat-rebholz-vdp-weingut/)

[Pfeffingen, VDP.Weingut](https://www.jessebeckerms.com/pfeffingen-vdp-weingut/)